The upgraded Fox Float Evols that OFT retrofitted for me.
Which Aftermarket Suspension is best: K-Mod, Timbersled, EZ-Ride, TeamFast?
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
I don't think they do, I think they just offer something different, 80% coupling compared to 100%
The raptors (at least for the Cats) are piggyback 20 clicker adjustable with triple rate springs built specifically for the kmod suspension (I'm pretty sure I read all that somewhere but ask kevin first before you quote me). It doesn't get any better than that. Ask Twisted what he thinks of the difference or kevin. He wants you to go with the raptors because he knows how much better they are, also wants total satisfaction.
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I can clear up what the coupling measurement differences between K-mod and Timbersled. There is a difference in how they are being measured and that is why the numbers are different. These facts are comparing to their max coupling adjustment capabilities.
One fact about a coupling suspension (any brand) is that they can only mechanically pull the front arm down to a level angle with the slide rail. This is typically at about 80 to 90% of it available travel.
The 100% max coupling that K-mod claims means that the back arm starts to mechanically pull down the front arm at the same moment the back arm start to compress and will pull the front arm down at a slower rate then our suspension. The advantage to this is that it will have more control on a supper steep hill because when adjusted like this it has no independent action in the back of the rail. The disadvantage is that it will be les likely to lift the skis of the ground when you want it to.
The 80% max coupling that Timbersled claims means that the back arm can mechanically pull down the front arm 80% of it available travel. The coupling is engaged at about 2 inches down in the stroke of the back arm. The advantage to this is that it still gets the same amount of coupling by pulling the front arm up at a slightly faster rate but still has some independent action at the back of the rail for added maneuverability. The disadvantage is that when on a supper steep hill it will have a slight amount more ski lift because it does not engages the coupling as soon.
Keep in mind that when comparing aftermarket suspensions is that you are actually going to be comparing them to your stock non coupling suspension. Coupling suspensions in general provide much more control over your sled and that will boost your confidents to a new level.
Allen
One fact about a coupling suspension (any brand) is that they can only mechanically pull the front arm down to a level angle with the slide rail. This is typically at about 80 to 90% of it available travel.
The 100% max coupling that K-mod claims means that the back arm starts to mechanically pull down the front arm at the same moment the back arm start to compress and will pull the front arm down at a slower rate then our suspension. The advantage to this is that it will have more control on a supper steep hill because when adjusted like this it has no independent action in the back of the rail. The disadvantage is that it will be les likely to lift the skis of the ground when you want it to.
The 80% max coupling that Timbersled claims means that the back arm can mechanically pull down the front arm 80% of it available travel. The coupling is engaged at about 2 inches down in the stroke of the back arm. The advantage to this is that it still gets the same amount of coupling by pulling the front arm up at a slightly faster rate but still has some independent action at the back of the rail for added maneuverability. The disadvantage is that when on a supper steep hill it will have a slight amount more ski lift because it does not engages the coupling as soon.
Keep in mind that when comparing aftermarket suspensions is that you are actually going to be comparing them to your stock non coupling suspension. Coupling suspensions in general provide much more control over your sled and that will boost your confidents to a new level.
Allen
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T
K MOD
i have had ez-ride suspension on my turbo sleds before and I prefer the
driveabilaty of the k-mod it well keep the front end down so you can control the extra power.
8
i have had ez-ride suspension on my turbo sleds before and I prefer the
driveabilaty of the k-mod it well keep the front end down so you can control the extra power.
8
Just to clarify, when we say the kmod stays down does not mean it pushes the skis into the ground. I have ran mine on the least amount of coupling so it would stand up and if I really hit something and pull up it will stand straight up, but I have never got it to stand up far enough to hit the rear bumper. The nice thing is when set less couple it still maintains control, so before it would stand up and go where ever it felt like going the kmod stays on line and can be controlled weather its going straight up, rolling it into a sidehill or doing a wheelie u-turn. I have even stood it up came around and thrown it into a down hill sidehill. It all just kind of happens with this skid. I like it less coupled because of the way I ride tight tree and need to stand it up a little and wip it the other direction, so when sidehilling I can either point it up hill or push/slide the asz end down, it starts to trench but the skid pushes the whole sled upward then change sides (it happens real fast) and sidehill the other direction, prob wouldn't be as easy to switch direction that tight if it where fully couple. Main thing is I stay in control in all aspects.
B
"The 100% max coupling that K-mod claims means that the back arm starts to mechanically pull down the front arm at the same moment the back arm start to compress and will pull the front arm down at a slower rate then our suspension. The advantage to this is that it will have more control on a supper steep hill because when adjusted like this it has no independent action in the back of the rail. The disadvantage is that it will be les likely to lift the skis of the ground when you want it to."
"The 80% max coupling that Timbersled claims means that the back arm can mechanically pull down the front arm 80% of it available travel. The coupling is engaged at about 2 inches down in the stroke of the back arm. The advantage to this is that it still gets the same amount of coupling by pulling the front arm up at a slightly faster rate but still has some independent action at the back of the rail for added maneuverability. The disadvantage is that when on a supper steep hill it will have a slight amount more ski lift because it does not engages the coupling as soon."
The paragraphs above are from Timbersleds post. Allen is correct, K Mod does have the control advantage over the Mountain Tamer on a super steep hill, but I disagree with him about the lack of ski lift being a disadvantage. (remember we are talking about climbing a super steep hill) The K Mod will "float" the front end and that is exactly what you want on an aggressive climb, if you need to get out of the throttle in order to correct your line and then back into the throttle to continue your climb the K Mod keeps the front down and allows the rider to maintain control. After you make your line correction and get back on the gas the last thing you want is to much ski lift because then you have to get out of the throttle in order to get the front of the sled to come back down then you get back into the throttle to try to maintain your momentum, after this cycle happens a couple of times your done, you will not get to the top. Allen is also correct about the K Mod having no independent action at the rear arm when set up in this configuration. This configuration is called position #3 on the coupling adjuster block and is the correct set up for this type of climb. If your not climbing a super steep hill and and want ski lift you can go to position #2, or for more ski lift position #1. If you want all kinds of ski lift then simply remove the coupling adjuster blocks from the rails and you have an independent set up. All this can be done in 30 seconds with two 9/16 wrenches. When the K Mod is set up with no coupling blocks or with the coupling blocks set on position #1 you will get the 2 inches of stroke before coupling occurs and the added maneuverability advantage just like the Mountain Tamer has, what you will not get is the disadvantage that Allen said the Mountain Tamer has, more ski lift on a super steep hill because it does not engage the coupling as soon as the K Mod does. Thank You, Budd
"The 80% max coupling that Timbersled claims means that the back arm can mechanically pull down the front arm 80% of it available travel. The coupling is engaged at about 2 inches down in the stroke of the back arm. The advantage to this is that it still gets the same amount of coupling by pulling the front arm up at a slightly faster rate but still has some independent action at the back of the rail for added maneuverability. The disadvantage is that when on a supper steep hill it will have a slight amount more ski lift because it does not engages the coupling as soon."
The paragraphs above are from Timbersleds post. Allen is correct, K Mod does have the control advantage over the Mountain Tamer on a super steep hill, but I disagree with him about the lack of ski lift being a disadvantage. (remember we are talking about climbing a super steep hill) The K Mod will "float" the front end and that is exactly what you want on an aggressive climb, if you need to get out of the throttle in order to correct your line and then back into the throttle to continue your climb the K Mod keeps the front down and allows the rider to maintain control. After you make your line correction and get back on the gas the last thing you want is to much ski lift because then you have to get out of the throttle in order to get the front of the sled to come back down then you get back into the throttle to try to maintain your momentum, after this cycle happens a couple of times your done, you will not get to the top. Allen is also correct about the K Mod having no independent action at the rear arm when set up in this configuration. This configuration is called position #3 on the coupling adjuster block and is the correct set up for this type of climb. If your not climbing a super steep hill and and want ski lift you can go to position #2, or for more ski lift position #1. If you want all kinds of ski lift then simply remove the coupling adjuster blocks from the rails and you have an independent set up. All this can be done in 30 seconds with two 9/16 wrenches. When the K Mod is set up with no coupling blocks or with the coupling blocks set on position #1 you will get the 2 inches of stroke before coupling occurs and the added maneuverability advantage just like the Mountain Tamer has, what you will not get is the disadvantage that Allen said the Mountain Tamer has, more ski lift on a super steep hill because it does not engage the coupling as soon as the K Mod does. Thank You, Budd
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Learning more and more all the time.:face-icon-small-hap
some more user info on the raptor shocks, http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=458552
Christopher,
You rode my 2010 Nytro last year with the new SPG front end and the OEM rear skid and loved it ( Don't forget to clutch that SC properly ) Well, here's an offer for you, I'll get the sled to you again this year with no changes other than a 2012 Mountain Tamer, you ride it again and tell me what you think. Might be hard to remember the differences from year to year, but let's hook up and we can compare notes.
Deal?
Scott
You rode my 2010 Nytro last year with the new SPG front end and the OEM rear skid and loved it ( Don't forget to clutch that SC properly ) Well, here's an offer for you, I'll get the sled to you again this year with no changes other than a 2012 Mountain Tamer, you ride it again and tell me what you think. Might be hard to remember the differences from year to year, but let's hook up and we can compare notes.
Deal?
Scott
THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
Both our sleds will have the same front end, but don't you think the SC on mine might kinda skew the test results?
Or are you hinting that your putting a blower on your's as well????
No huffer on mine. Just a comparison between a KMOD and a Mountain Tamer, side by side. This discussion has been about rear skid handling, tight trees etc. Not an end all discusssion, either one should be adaptable to the conditions that you throw at it.
Having enough power to get through something is a lot different than having a sled that can handle its way through it. My .02
I make no claims either way between the KMOD or the Mountain Tamer, but I'd rather run out of horsepower before I ran out of handling.
Snowies in late January, D.A. NLRC? Bozeman/Big Sky area? Those are the trips that we are lining up.
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T
I thought that you were going with the oem "lightweight" kit for your rear skid. The new mountain tamer just too much to resist I guess? I would be curious to see how it rides. I have really come to like the way that the non coupled suspension rides compared to all of the different stock coupled systems. I am sure that the aftermarket systems work better but I still like the way the non coupled setup feels.
Maybe I should grab a mountain tamer and we will do a little comparison ourselves...of course the skid would be setup for my weight but it would still be fun!
-Justin
Sounds like a plan to me.
Let me know the DATE and LOCATION when you lock it down!
DO IT!
Ahh haha, yall know I want too, tuition deadline is coming up...I'll have to see how much I have left after all of that is said and done!
Would be hard to judge accurately, one boost and one not, curious to see what happens though.
Allen got me. Got to thinking back about how the 08's with Mountain Tamers rode compared to my stock 2010 and I decided that I wanted the weight savings AND the performance. I like the new features and re-designs on the 2012 models, especially the ability to adjust the coupling so easily on the trail. I should have it installed on my sled for Haydays if anyone would like to see it in person.
There's a fella I ride with from Dubois ( one of the four horsemen ) that likes to ride in really tight stuff ( insert 4 letter word ) and he is very adept in his ability to take you to terrain that can equalize a high HP sled and make it come down to handling and rider ability. Maybe Christopher would like to meet him
Oh Ya,Maybe Christopher would like to meet him
I can't think of anything I would rather do that try to stuff my 40 inch wide sled into a 38 inch wide space between a Rock and a Hard Place.
There's a fella I ride with from Dubois ( one of the four horsemen ) that likes to ride in really tight stuff ( insert 4 letter word ) and he is very adept in his ability to take you to terrain that can equalize a high HP sled and make it come down to handling and rider ability. Maybe Christopher would like to meet him [/QUOTE]
sounds like my kind of riding, can I come too. I promise I will help you get that tank unstuck,
[/QUOTE]sounds like my kind of riding, can I come too. I promise I will help you get that tank unstuck,
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