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From Poo to Doo, first ride Revuu

Zad

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205 lbs, 6'1", ride mostly technical trees in the Rockies, 5000-7000 ft (except today which was 90% road and 10% steep given low snow conditions). Today was 50-60cm of fresh powder on rain crust. Coming from a 2022 Polaris Matryx Slash na 163 3" std. screen with Cycles and Sleds clutch kit, 2" riser and finger throttle. Loved the sled, felt perfectly comfortable on it and wanted to try something different. New sled is a 2023 Skidoo Expert na 165 3" standard screen with iBackshift clutch kit, Salazz King ski rubbers, post forward kit (2") and finger throttle. I'd never ridden a Skidoo before today.

Overnight we got a dump, 50-60cm fell in an 8 hour window so we went to bed sad about all the rain this week and woke up jazzed to ride. We were going to head to Revy today but given the dump we got, stayed local. We were on mostly untouched roads the whole day except for a stab into one of our favorite steep zones...with no carnage thankfully.

I didn't ride the Skidoo before making the above-mentioned mods. I did, however, go to the dealership and stand on a stock Expert. I found the stock handlebar position odd, it felt like they were sitting back in my lap and the bars were uncomfortably low. Based on this I ordered the post forward kit and damn am I glad I did (more on this in a bit). Based on my experience with the CnS clutch kits on the Poo I ordered the ever-popular iBackshift clutch and based on reading many of the complaints about the DS4 ski and ****ty OEM ski rubbers I ordered the Salazz King units. I like riding with the finger throttle so that was a given.

The other thing I did before riding the sled was have our local suspension shop, shout out to Ion2 Suspension in Invermere (great people and excellent service), do a service on the ski shocks and rear track shock. I bought the Doo with 790 km's and the oil that came out of the ski shocks was black as night. The rear track shock would occasionally loose pressure and cause major skid sag (turns out it had low nitrogen pressure). So the Doo had a shock service where I never touched the

Before riding the sled I was happy with the post forward mod and how it made the sled feel immediatly comfortable in the attack position. I was surprised to find that with the OEM Skidoo Expert riser in the post forward position, the handlebars on the Doo were about the same height as the bars on the Poo with a 2" riser. Where the Doo bars in the OEM position felt odd, cramped and way too low, the same setup in post forward felt perfect. As I've said, I didn't ride the Doo before doing all these mods so I can't comment on before/after, just how my Doo setup worked compared to the Poo setup.

When reading the following comparison keep in mind that the riding we did today was easy, nothing like what we normally do (save the aforementioned poke into the one zone). I'll report back with comparisons later in the season once I've been able to ride our normal, treed and steep terrain.

I'll start with what I didn't like about the Skidoo. The glovebox is a joke. It's tiny, doesn't seal, fills with snow and isn't heated. Sure as **** there has to be a way to design this rig with a functional space to keep extra gloves warm and dry. The Poo glove box does this in spades. The plastics are a handful to take off, nothig major but damn Poo has this nailed too. A few clicks and side panels and hood are off. The same thing on a Doo is a minor event. And for some reason I struggle to get the belt cover off every time, it's hanging up on something and I haven't yet figured out how to get it off easily. While I'm a big fan of the Linq system I find the OEM Linq bags wanting. The BCA Mtn Pro bag works well for me and the thought of rummaging around in a Skidoo bag seems like a pita. I thought about the Slim Waterproof as it has a larger footprint...but it has a larger footprint and would eliminate the possiblity of using Linq position 2 to carry extra fuel. So I removed the belt cover, put the spare belt in my avy bag, and mounted a BCA Mtn Pro tight up to the tank and just offset the Linq brackets on the Mtn Pro a bit. This keeps the weight of the bag further forward (and I carry enough stuff to overnight). The thought of having a tunnel bag sitting right at the end of the tunnel all day just makes no sense to me when I'm often looking for every advantage to move in the mountains. Using position 1 for the BCA bag leaves too little room for a Linq gas caddy in position 2 so I've dropped a hint to my wife about the Giant Loop Armadillo Fuel Bags as a Christmas gift. It'll work perfect and I'll dump the fuel in as soon as we get to our riding zone to get it off the ass of the sled. Well, thats about it. There is very little I don't like about this sled. And I'll see how I feel after we really start to get into it.

Now on to what I like, and there's a **** ton of stuff I like about this sled.

I immediately felt comfortable on the Doo, there was no transition period for me today. The sled felt quick and easy to initiate a turn, more so than the Matryx. It also felt lighter than the Matryx, which surprised me. I was out today with my friend who rides a '23 9R and we swapped sleds for a bit which confirmed my previous statement. The Doo is super quick to initiate a turn and feels very light. Once on edge it does take a bit more rider input to keep it there and it isn't quite as precise as the Matryx. This difference isn't huge and I'm sure with more seat time I'll sort out what I need to do to be more dialled in on edge. The real test will come when we start riding our normal terrain with lots of treed sidehilling.

Shot! Need I say more? Sweet mother of God I like Shot. Despite the easy ride today the snow was really deep and we got stuck a few times and aren't as fit as we will be in a month or two. We were tuckered by days' end. As the day wore on I watched my riding partner have to pull start his 9R several times to get it started, many times. And I just hit the button. So nice. This alone is enough to make me love this sled.

The Doo seat is nice, small and doesn't get in the way. Where I would often catch my foot on the Poo seat, with movement side to side today my foot didn't catch once on the Doo today. We stand almost all the time so the smaller, harder seat isn't an issue for me.

The sled over revved a tad most of the day so after dinner I pulled out an allen key and, never having touched the clutch before (I hired a guy to install the iBackshift for me) proceeded to turn the clickers down one notch in oh, say about 3 minutes flat. It took me almost as long to get the damn clutch cover off as it did for me to adjust the clickers on the clutch. That there is a sweet clutch design. Speaking of clutching, the iBackshift worked well, quick off the bottom, very responsive at low throttle and while we didn't ride terrain to really test it I think it'll work well for me. While I can't compare to the stock Doo clutch it did feel similar to the CnS clutch kit which works really, really well.

Now this may sound silly, but the large levers on the high/low light and handlebar heat switches work really well and are easy to use will riding. Unlike the small and cheap feeling Poo switches which I had to work at to adjust light and heat while moving, the Doo just works and feels better.

The adjustable limiter strap! I should have put this further up the list because this is just plain sweet. My last sled was a Pro and I've ridden a Khaos and the limiter strap makes the Doo able to perform similar to both Poo sleds. Honestly, I thought it was going to be a bit of a gimmick but it really changes the handling characteristics of the sled. One extreme makes the front light and very playful, the other planted and more precise (just how precise remains to be seen). On the venture into dangerland today we were climbing up a steep cut block and I had the limiter set to agile and rear shock on soft. As I was wheelying up the hill just asking to take out my track on a landmine, the wiser part of my brain took over and I let off the throttle, sided out and adjusted the limiter to precision and stiffened up the rear shock. The rest of the way up the hill was done in a much smarter way.

The skis. I'd read a number of threads about how ****ty the 4 series skis are which is why I bought the Salazz King rubbers. The skis peformed well today, as good as ones on my Polaris. Perhaps I'll experience something different when I'm sidehilling and hit an old track or when the snow is crusty. For the powder we rode today along with the occoasional old track I came across, the DS4's worked fine.

Back to suspension. My Polaris had the Walker Evans shocks and I found that they dove. Now, I didn't have the Poo suspension serviced and probably didn't have it set up properly, so there's that. Regardless, the Doo suspesion just flat out worked well, no diving and it soaked up the few bumps I hit nicely.

Everything about the motor just feels more refined. Starts first pull, shot works smoothly, reverse is seamless. On my Poo it would take two or three pulls to start it, especially once it was warm. And I've heard the bag of bolts sounds that come from the Poo starters, they sound like they're going to grenade at any moment. My Poo reverse would occasionally stall (both cylinders had 125 psi after 2400 km so I don't think this was due to loss of compression.

Well that was long winded. The two things I like most about the Doo are the shot and how the machine handles...quick, light feeling, very responsive and so easy to initiate a turn in powder. Perhaps the latter has more to do with my size but nonetheless, I like it. I'm curious to see how I like the sled as the season and riding difficulty progresses. So far I'm glad I made the switch. So is my right shoulder. I'll post more in a month or two (and be more brief about it too).
 

jcjc1

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SHOT is pretty sweet, everyone's a convert once they spend a day with it.
The fuel bladder is a great idea. I have one because i don't want to carry a can plus when empty, roll it up and stow it anywhere. The self contained pour spout is great.
I've added the limiter strap to all my freerides because it changes the handling of the sled in seconds.
Agreed on the engine.
Excellent write up and looking forward to hearing more.
 

Zad

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I can't seem to figure out how to edit my original post (is there a way?), so I'll post here that I should also say that my Polaris ran flawlessly for 2400km. In that time I put in plugs, one belt, fuel and oil...that's it. I say this so it's clear that I'm not a jaded Polaris rider. Although, having said that, it will be nice to not have the motor go into limp mode if I inadvertently put too much pressure on the brake lever for too long.
 

jcjc1

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i believe there's a certain amount of time that you are allowed to edit after posting.
regarding the glovebox, the poo has the goofy looking, high dash "pod" which resembles the doo glovebox extension so storage is less of an issue. i don't know how doo could keep their current hood design and implement a usefully large glovebox.
 
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rugbynitro

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Outstanding review Zad! I'm in a similar situation coming from Polaris to a Gen 5 Turbo 165 X with expert package.

Snow conditions are still too low here for me to ride my rule is 4 feet (Kamloops, BC), but I look forward to seeing your future opinions on the new platform.

I too have seriously considered the post-forward kit. I changed the rubbers to salazzkings, but won't make the change to a post forward until I ride it and I'm sure I don't like it. Standing in the neutral position on sled now with my height at 5'8 seems pretty comfortable to me.
 

High Voltage

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Good write up. You got all the same mods I have installed, only my sled is the X model. Hopefully I will get out soon for some breaking in miles.
 
K
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I'm 6'6" and Haven't really ridden a Polaris so maybe I just don't know how they are but I keep the stock risers and bars on my last 3 sleds. and I keep them inline with the post. ( XM, and 2 Lynx's ). Rode a friends that tried to "fix" his steering on his Ski Doo and it was all messed up lol.

Been doing the same with my dirt bikes lately too, used to run big old risers and bars. But now I just run stock. Makes them handle better with maybe making it a bit uncomfortable when standing up in a straight line for miles.
 

turboless terry

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i believe there's a certain amount of time that you are allowed to edit after posting.
regarding the glovebox, the poo has the goofy looking, high dash "pod" which resembles the doo glovebox extension so storage is less of an issue. i don't know how doo could keep their current hood design and implement a usefully large glovebox.
Nothing resembles the doo glovebox extension. I wanted the extra room on my lynx but there was no way. If they would have went halfway in-between. The matryx is awesome
 

jcjc1

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Nothing resembles the doo glovebox extension. I wanted the extra room on my lynx but there was no way. If they would have went halfway in-between. The matryx is awesome
yeah, the doo thing is so goofy looking that it looks like someone lost a bet. plenty of ways to deal with a few additional items as opposed to that.
 

christopher

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205 lbs, 6'1", ride mostly technical trees in the Rockies, 5000-7000 ft (except today which was 90% road and 10% steep given low snow conditions). Today was 50-60cm of fresh powder on rain crust. Coming from a 2022 Polaris Matryx Slash na 163 3" std. screen with Cycles and Sleds clutch kit, 2" riser and finger throttle. Loved the sled, felt perfectly comfortable on it and wanted to try something different. New sled is a 2023 Skidoo Expert na 165 3" standard screen with iBackshift clutch kit, Salazz King ski rubbers, post forward kit (2") and finger throttle. I'd never ridden a Skidoo before today.
Excellent post Zad!!
 

christopher

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I can't seem to figure out how to edit my original post (is there a way?),
Once you cross over to the dark side and become a Premium Member, you will gain MORE TIME to edit your previous posts, (among other goodies)
 

Dynamo^Joe

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Nice informative Review Zad. Nice to see a little comparison from brand to brand.
Zad] The sled over revved a tad most of the day so after dinner I pulled out an allen key and, never having touched the clutch before (I hired a guy to install the iBackshift for me) proceeded to turn the clickers down one notch in oh, say about 3 minutes flat. It took me almost as long to get the damn clutch cover off as it did for me to adjust the clickers on the clutch.
Joe] Engine speed full throttle 8000 rpms. Question, what was the overrev rpms at full throttle?
For every 100 rpms over 8000, then add 1/2 a gram pivot bolt.
I kinda would rather see you back in the higher clicker number with the spacer weight to get 8000 rpms eh.
Have an eye on your setting sheet to see what the grams are installed. Then choose the next higher gram according to what your engine speed overrev was.
Say you had 20.4g and running 8200, then add 1 gram. The next closest 1 gram increment would be 21.6g and pull at 7950~8000 rpms full throttle.

Happy highmarking
joey
 

Zad

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Any idea what you started out with for pin weight when the I backshift kit was installed? What are your thoughts on the skidoo track to you polaris track?

thanks
Hey Ultrasauras, my clutch was set up for 6000' with the 965 ramp and 16.5 grams (25mm bolt plus s2mm plus s2mm (with steel arm) = 90.2g @ 6000'. As you'll see from Joey's post further on, he's suggesting I move the clicker back to three and do something different with the weight. I'm ignorant on clutches so not exactly sure what he means but I'll figure that out.

As far as the track, I know one thing: the Gen 5 full rod track is not as durable as the 163 3" Polaris track. I put 2400 km on the Polaris track and it looked new when I sold it today. The new-to-me skidoo track had 750 km on it when I bought it and it had 5 lugs with split tears down the paddle. From what I've read it's a two year track at best.

How the track performs is still a question for me to answer. I've been out on it for two rides, both in marginal snow so I stuck mostly to road riding. On roads in 60+ cm of snow it did well but it won't be until we get more snow and we're in the gnarly trees that I'll be able to compare it to the Polaris. I'll post back later in the season and share my thoughts.

People seem to have a hate on the Polaris 3" track but I liked it, tough as nails and it served me well. My buddy who went from a Polaris 850 163 3" to a 9R 165 2.75" preferred the 3"...both for durability and performance.
 

Zad

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Nice informative Review Zad. Nice to see a little comparison from brand to brand.
Zad] The sled over revved a tad most of the day so after dinner I pulled out an allen key and, never having touched the clutch before (I hired a guy to install the iBackshift for me) proceeded to turn the clickers down one notch in oh, say about 3 minutes flat. It took me almost as long to get the damn clutch cover off as it did for me to adjust the clickers on the clutch.
Joe] Engine speed full throttle 8000 rpms. Question, what was the overrev rpms at full throttle?
For every 100 rpms over 8000, then add 1/2 a gram pivot bolt.
I kinda would rather see you back in the higher clicker number with the spacer weight to get 8000 rpms eh.
Have an eye on your setting sheet to see what the grams are installed. Then choose the next higher gram according to what your engine speed overrev was.
Say you had 20.4g and running 8200, then add 1 gram. The next closest 1 gram increment would be 21.6g and pull at 7950~8000 rpms full throttle.

Happy highmarking
joey
Hi Joey, thank you for posting. I just left a message on your business phone. At full throttle I was at 8100 before changing the clickers. So if I understand you correctly I need to add 1/2 gram to each pivot bolt and put the clicker back to 3? Which, if I'm on the right track, means that I need to go from the 6000' setting to the 5500' setting and 17g with the 30mm bolt + s2mm (w/ steel arm)?
 

Dynamo^Joe

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Heh...ok, now i did not know what sled you have because I did not read good enough,but now I found you said "na".
Yes, If you have a 2023 natural, then yes, clicker #3 and add a 1/2 a gram and that will get down to 8000 rpms.

Now that you taken a run, it does not matter what the elevation says on the setting sheet.
Let the tachometer tell you what to do.

IF you have X grams and see 8100 rpms, THEN add 0.5 grams [ish] or as close as you can, then it should go 8000 rpms. Change pivot bolt weight to the next-heavier gram.
Clicker 3 for strongest engine braking and most abrupt backshift and ski lift.
 
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duncan76

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Hey Ultrasauras, my clutch was set up for 6000' with the 965 ramp and 16.5 grams (25mm bolt plus s2mm plus s2mm (with steel arm) = 90.2g @ 6000'. As you'll see from Joey's post further on, he's suggesting I move the clicker back to three and do something different with the weight. I'm ignorant on clutches so not exactly sure what he means but I'll figure that out.

As far as the track, I know one thing: the Gen 5 full rod track is not as durable as the 163 3" Polaris track. I put 2400 km on the Polaris track and it looked new when I sold it today. The new-to-me skidoo track had 750 km on it when I bought it and it had 5 lugs with split tears down the paddle. From what I've read it's a two year track at best.

How the track performs is still a question for me to answer. I've been out on it for two rides, both in marginal snow so I stuck mostly to road riding. On roads in 60+ cm of snow it did well but it won't be until we get more snow and we're in the gnarly trees that I'll be able to compare it to the Polaris. I'll post back later in the season and share my thoughts.

People seem to have a hate on the Polaris 3" track but I liked it, tough as nails and it served me well. My buddy who went from a Polaris 850 163 3" to a 9R 165 2.75" preferred the 3"...both for durability and performance.
As far as tracks go especially getting a used sled no matter what the brand you never know what the previous owner has done to it. I see a lot of people in the early and late seasons digging down till you see dirt rocks trees ect. coming out of the hole just so they don't have to dig out. I'd bet that's how the previous owner rode it. Some call it be an aggressive rider I call it being lazy and costing you money you don't need to spend or just selling it off and getting a new one. Anyway just my 2 cent hope you enjoy the doo experience and good choice on clutch kit been rocking Joe's kit for years.
 
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