Team secondary, how to take apart?

[truthrider]

I'm want to take my Team secondary apart, seems to be a bind when you move it back and forth, can here the spring. It's off an 04 RMK, # 58-42-36-ER. I've never taken a clutch apart, I also don't have a clutch compressor, but I do have 3 good bar clamps. Any input to get me going would be great, I don't want to create a problem by taking it apart the wrong way. Thanks

 

[XC700116]

Well judging by the age it could be a real pain.

Start off by using a torx bit socket and when you insert it into the helix bolts give eas one a good wrap or two with a ball peen hammer to jar the threads loose.

Remove all 8 torx bolts from the helix.

flip it over so the helix is facing down and place the hub on a block of wood, then smack the hub on the other side of the clutch a few times with another block of wood to break the helix loose. If it doesnt work lift the clutch in the air a few inches in the same position and smack it against the block. Your helix should have popped loos by now. Remove the helix by pulling up on it and rotating out.

then you need some sort of compression tool and a GOOD pair of large snap ring pliers. You can make the tool from a 12" piece of ready rod (threaded rod, I suggest 1/2") and a piece of about 3" pipe with a notch out of it to allow the split ring pliers in to get at the ring while the hub and spring are compressed. Then you will need a piece of flat plate with a 1/2" hole in it to put the threaded rod through. Two 1/2" nuts and some washers.

Place a nut and washer large enough to keep the rod from entering the hub of the clutch on one end of the threaded rod.

Place the rod through the clutch hub from the "front side" (opposite from the helix side) then put the pipe on with the notch next to the hub with the 2 rollers on it, then the flat plate on top of the pipe followed by a washer and the other nut. (make sure the notch in the pipe lines up with the snap ring). thighten the nuts on the rod until it compresses the clutch spring and the hub with the rollers on it enough to remove the snap ring.

Remove the snap ring and slowly back the tension off the nuts until you can remove the nuts, rod, plate and pipe.

then everything else comes apart. clean with HOTT!!! soapy water and rinse it thuroughly to make sure all solvents are gone.

replace any worn or damaged parts and use a light litium or moly grease on the bushings and the spline shaft where the hub with the rollers is.

when you reassemble just do everything in reverse but make sure and locate the double spline on the splined shaft and inside the hub with the rollers. Those have to line up or it won't go back on. Compress it, replace the helix and bolt it back on. make sure to clean the jackshaft and put a little fresh grease on it before re-installing the clutch.

 

[BlindBayBoy]

I just did mine last week. I made up a spring compresser for it also. XC700116 is right, you need a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers or a bent pair of needle nose pliers. The snap ring is a pain. To get a torx screws out, suggest a small impact driver from Princess Auto or like he said give it a tap. The TTS-98's sometimes bind, recommend getting a three pack of delrin washers. That will loosen it.

 

[volcano buster]

All good info so far.

I would suggest marking the top surface of the snap ring with a marker before you remove it. These rings are supposed to go back in the way they came out (correct side up). If installed incorrectly, they can come off out on trail... They are even harder to replace while out on the trail...

VB

 

[truthrider]

Thanks XC700116 and everyone else. I have the helix off and can see what needs to be done. Thanks again for taking the time to explain in depth, now I need to run to town and get the stuff to compress the spring.

 

[truthrider]

Okay, I got it all apart, went great. The binding issue was where the washer rides against the deflector adjustment bolt. Some serious wear on the washer and clutch sheeve. Looking at the ramp I was getting just over half way shift out. If anyone else's sled seems low on power, I'd check this out if you haven't already. This should improve performance dramatically. Thanks again to all with info.

 

[shortstop20]

All good info so far.

I would suggest marking the top surface of the snap ring with a marker before you remove it. These rings are supposed to go back in the way they came out (correct side up). If installed incorrectly, they can come off out on trail... They are even harder to replace while out on the trail...

VB

I never noticed any difference on my snap ring. Is one side slightly chamfered?

 

[volcano buster]

It is slightly, since they stamp these out of flat stock.

One guy in our club has a transmission shop so he educated us on them. Made sense after that. Too bad he wasn't along the day the snap ring came off of the 800 VE 20 miles from the truck.