• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Kreating Khaos, 162" extreme and other easy mods

goridedoo

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To compare the fitment of the factory pipe look at the clearances below. Really close to the plastic side panel on the right side. Some of my riding buddies have dented this area of the pipe from hitting things and bending the stock bumper. Also the insulation cover is notched to make room for the over structure pipe. If you have the carbon fiber over structure make sure to wrap it with heat tape no matter what brand pipe you put in. View attachment 334718 View attachment 334719 View attachment 334720
To compare the fitment of the stock pipe (pics above) to the extra clearance of the Strightline Performance pipe below. Last pic is the factory pull rope pulley that some companies have you remove or relocate it lower. View attachment 334732 View attachment 334733 View attachment 334734
Ya talked me into it... actually the 20% off sale is what really sealed the deal. Great pics, thanks. I see you pulled your foam from the nose cone, are you planning to heat tape it? Or should the pipe run cool enough that you aren’t gonna worry about it?
 

Prayn4snow

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Ya talked me into it... actually the 20% off sale is what really sealed the deal. Great pics, thanks. I see you pulled your foam from the nose cone, are you planning to heat tape it? Or should the pipe run cool enough that you aren’t gonna worry about it?
It runs cooler with the ceramic coating (keeping more heat in the pipe) so I won't be putting heat reflection tape in the"nose cone area". However, if you have the carbon fiber over-structure I recommend to wrap the carbon fiber tube next to the pipe with the included heat tape.
 
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Prayn4snow

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I was asked about the turning radius of the RSI hand guards, so I will attach some pics. You have full range of motion from left to right with the factory low hood or the small windshield bags and still have easy room with gloves on to reach the integrated kill switch. On the last pic you can see where they are mounted to the bracket they have lots of room to flex if you hit trees or roll your sled. IMG_7846.jpg IMG_7847.jpg IMG_7848.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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I haven't been on here much in the last week, we had 2 pretty bad winter storms in Upper MI just days apart so we were without power for 4 days and internet for longer. Instead of riding the deep snow, we helped neighbors, cleared roads and roofs from falling trees and murphys law one of my trees fell right on our new aluminum boat dock...fun stuff. Back to the build!
 

Prayn4snow

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anything done for the pull cord?
To solve the problem that many people were having with melted pull cords on the Polaris 850, Cobra Pull Cords came out with a new High Temp Turbo cord. I love how strong the standard Cobra cords are so I ordered the new Turbo cord. It's easy to install and I put it through some tough tests already in my shop and its pretty amazing! Part of the issue with the 850 is the harmonics of the stock cord, it vibrates about 2" each way of center and can contact the pipe/can elbow. Many have been left starting the sled the rest of the day with the clutch strap that Polaris supplies with your owners manual. The strap works, but its a pain especially when laying on its side and can be dangerous if you've never done it before. A simple solution is to get this new High temp cord to hopefully solve this issue.
Start by pulling your muffler, then start removing the 6mm allen head bolts. There is a couple that are on an angle, so using a ball end 6mm allen makes it easier. Now you can see why I mentioned drilling out the overfilled chassis glue from the bottom right hole on a previous post in this thread. Once you take out the recoil cover take it to a flat serface. Back out the factory bolt (13mm) in the center 1 full turn to make it easier. Next pull out the factory cord all the way to the end. Stick a screwdriver all the way through both the cage and the cover to hold the spring. Use a knife to cut out the black factory RTV holding the stock cord knot. I will add more pics and info on the next post IMG_7964.jpg IMG_8074.jpg
 
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live2beel

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Thanks for All of the great information! Have you had a chance to ride it yet? Was wondering what you thought of the Straightline pipe?
 

Prayn4snow

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Next, tape the new Cobra High Temp Turbo cord to the end of the factory cord and pull it from the front of the aluminum cover through the reel. You might need to push and pull at the same time. Tie a knot in the Cobra cord, cut off the rest leaving about 1" tail, tuck the tail and knot in tight and top back off with RTV. IMG_8075.jpg IMG_8076.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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While holding the Cobra Cord, pull out the screwdriver holding the reel from turning. "Slowly" allow the reel to pull in the new cord, You will see the witness mark Im pointing to showing the reel is full. Tie a temporary knot on the outside of the housing. Tighten the center bolt 1 full turn with a 13mm socket (if you loosened it). Put the housing back on the sled by tipping the bottom in 1st. Replace the bolts and tighten (crisscross) until snug. If you dont have a way to torque the 6mm bolts down you can use a 6mm box end wrench around your 6mm allen wrench. This will get them tight enough unless your a gorilla like my buddy Ryan ;)
Keep in mind when I do projects like this I make a list of what tools would be handy in my tool pack that I carry on the sled. It's interesting how many of the same tools show up on that list for multiple parts on the sled. Using that list you can narrow down what you think you should carry to make field repairs. I keep my stock cord in the Cobra bag and keep it in my trailer just incase a friend needs one. Ive never had a Cobra cord fail and if it did they have a Lifetime warranty which is pretty cool for a high use cord! IMG_8078.jpg IMG_8079.jpg 59743369536__1604BF5B-0277-438F-94C5-29A9DE7AA299.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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Last step would be to pull the cord back through the dash and instal the handle. You can use the factory handle with this cord (High temp Turbo cord is thicker) but I wanted a little cheep bling so I got the cool billet Cobra handle. They have a number of different color handles and cords. Once you feed it through and tie a temporary knot, test the "pull back" of the spring. The Cobra cord is about 1' longer than stock so yo might need to cut some off to keep firm pressure against the dash while driving. If its too loose you can cut a little more off later. Here is a little on the specs of their cords in the pic. Last pics show the thickness difference between the standard Cobra cord and the orange Turbo Cobra cords. Check the link for more info. Next post will have some interesting test results. https://www.cobrapullcords.com IMG_8081.jpg 59743374406__2D4A3F37-DD25-4562-9EEE-AB6E9EBCDED6.jpg IMG_8085.jpg IMG_8073.jpg IMG_8071.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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I did some simple heat stress tests on this new High temp Cobra Turbo cord against a brand new stock Polaris rope. I held them both on the end of the portable work bench and put a heat gun 3" away to simulate the hottest part of the pipe and can elbow. With the heat gun on high and both cords side by side the stock one started shrinking in 1 minute. Within 4 minutes stock was about an inch shorter and balling up on the end like glass with no change to the Turbo cord. 4th pic, after the stock one was melted I put the tip of the gun right on the turbo cord and it still didnt melt! IMG_8086.jpg IMG_8087.jpg IMG_8089.jpg IMG_8088.jpg IMG_8091.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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On a side note to the 850:
I did a compression test and leak down test on another friends 2019 850 RMK yesterday in my shop. He has about 700 miles on it, all stock except for letting him test some cans for feedback for me. Before I tell you the compression numbers we got from it I want to again throw in a disclaimer that every tester will read differently. Compression testers are very helpful and valuable but must be used in context to what your looking for. His tester at home read higher numbers than mine, but what I am looking for is consistency between cylinders. We pulled the sled out of the trailer and brought the motor up to temp, then pulled it in my shop bay until it slightly cooled (just enough you don't get burned). After removing the side panels and hood I had him remove the spark plugs and screw in the tester. On my gauge he had 108 psi on the Mag side and 110 psi on the PTO side. As far as running condition, sled reportable ran well, "still bogging a bit and sees to have all the power still from new". It has the 2019 tune and both plugs were fouled and spark plug boots were full of carbon. Before I tell you the leak down results, if you were to base your opinion of how healthy each piston and cylinder is would you assume the lower psi would also have a lower leak down?
This was his 1st time doing the leak down so I walked him through the procedure. You can check out one of my past threads for much more detail on it but here is the basics: More on next post. IMG_8099.jpg IMG_8101.jpg
 
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damx

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Well I finally had a good ride with my axys 850 with ice age 162 khaos rails, front shock and limiter strap at khaos length. It still climbs like a axys, a bit more lighter feel in the front end, and makes turn outs alot better. Just when your about to get stuck lean back, with a quick off/on throttle chop and it does a 180. Now the key part is trying to stay on.
 
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Prayn4snow

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Make sure your key is off and kill switch on. Hand rotate your clutch to find TDC of your 1st cylinder. If you don't have a TDC indicator use something that Wont damage your piston like a Q-tip. When at TDC, I use a sharpie to mark the top of the clutch as a visual indicator that you haven't rotated + or - TDC for the rest of the procedure. Screw in the tester hose, hook up the lead to the tester body and hook up the compressed air line. Before adding air, use a clutch holding tool or something that Wont damage your primary clutch such as a wooden dowel or wood broom handle. I do this by myself all the time, but if you haven't done it be prepared for the force the air will exert on the holder. I warned my buddy and he still broke a wooden dowel, so be careful. IMG_8101.jpg IMG_8104.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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Once you have the clutch holder steady at TDC slowly turn the air pressure up on the leak down tester. Go real slow once close to 100psi because you dont want to go over that, you want consistence at 100psi for every test. Once there, read the 2nd dial. That number is the leak down amount. The tester should have a chart to help you figure out what your leak down percentage is based on that or simple math. During the test, you will hear "some" air leaking. Hopefully it's just the slight air (every motor leaks some) moving past your pistons and not around your head gaskets. You can also use this test to look for bubbles in the coolant. In 4 stroke motors this is used for many things like leaking valves etc. IMG_8103.jpg IMG_8102.jpg
 

Wintertime

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The Cobra Cord handles seem to rattle while ridding. Mine does, rode yesterday for the first time with it drove me nuts. Will be making some adjustments to that.


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Prayn4snow

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The Cobra Cord handles seem to rattle while ridding. Mine does, rode yesterday for the first time with it drove me nuts. Will be making some adjustments to that.


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Did you use the factory rubber grommet from under the factory handle? Thats what I did. The other tip is because the Cobra cord is about 1' longer than stock I cut it shorter to make sure their is proper tension for the handle to keep it planted. You can barely see it (factory grommet) in this pic while I was adjusting fitment and hadn't cut the cord to final length yet. IMG_8081.jpg
 

Solby

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I have the same leak down tester and checked mine 850 with 390 miles on it. Something I saw is I first checked it without starting the motor and I had like 98% and 93%. I did that just because I was curious. Then I started at let the sled idle and it got to 108 and I shut it off. Removed panels and hood. Checked each side and now was 95% on both. Thanks for the information in this thread!
 

Prayn4snow

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I have the same leak down tester and checked mine 850 with 390 miles on it. Something I saw is I first checked it without starting the motor and I had like 98% and 93%. I did that just because I was curious. Then I started at let the sled idle and it got to 108 and I shut it off. Removed panels and hood. Checked each side and now was 95% on both. Thanks for the information in this thread!
Good info Solby and backs up why I bring them up to temp. Your example helps illustrate why I test apples to apples, meaning using the same methods. Other people have their own methods, which is fine, as long as they stay the same from their baseline test. How is your sled running. Is yours a 19 or 20?
 
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