• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Kreating Khaos, 162" extreme and other easy mods

b-litt

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My Ski-doo bars would bend on every sled I owned. I swapped out to RSI twice and bent those too. The CFR bars were the only ones I never did bend. I switched to Polaris a couple years back and haven't bent or seen stock bars bend that I can think of. The steering shaft will break first.

I do however use a billet throttle block. I also love the skinz heated brake lever. They are strong, but do break. So, I still carry a spare lever in the tunnel bag.
 

Prayn4snow

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My Ski-doo bars would bend on every sled I owned. I swapped out to RSI twice and bent those too. The CFR bars were the only ones I never did bend. I switched to Polaris a couple years back and haven't bent or seen stock bars bend that I can think of. The steering shaft will break first.

I do however use a billet throttle block. I also love the skinz heated brake lever. They are strong, but do break. So, I still carry a spare lever in the tunnel bag.
Lol b-litt, just from the looks of your avatar pic it looks like you would bend more parts than just bars ;) When I was Red Horse I worked with a group of tough Marines that broke almost all the tools we had, so the 1st Sergeant had us order spares for everything we needed. Sounds like your tough on things for sure. Ive been cheap and have been using the same Skinz heated break lever for years on different sleds, I think I would go broke riding as hard as you. Thanks for the input :)
 
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Prayn4snow

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@ Prayn4snow.

The install pix of the Straightline pipe and can in the other thread were VERY helpful. The clearance this pipe has over stock is what i am looking for. Would be nice to see some dyno runs on this pipe/can setup.
Thanks. I know some people already know how to instal some of the items Ive posted, but many more like to see what all is involved, tools needed etc before getting started on a project or if certain parts even work well on a certain sled. Ive found out the hard way on many parts in the past that cost me valuable riding time and $$ because they didn't work well, broke or burned down a motor. The pipe clearance you mentioned is real nice over stock and cooler under hood temps with the ceramic coating. Some people with the twins have mentioned they are melting plastic.
 

Murph

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Looking at picking up a set of 163" Ice Age Rails and building a Khaos skid out of a non-Khaos sled.

I measured the Front Track Arm (inaccurately on the showroom floor) and they appear to be the same length- has anyone else measured this to confirm?

I did not meaasure the Front track shock CTC distance (unloaded)-- does anyone have this measurement?

How about the Rear track shock length/ Arm length?

It appears that the front track arm is in the same hole as an RMK and the rear drop brackets appear to be the same.
 

Prayn4snow

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A few pics of the RSI billet throttle block installed with the built in kill switch and plug and play cord. Another thing I do is use a label machine to mark the cable ends in the velcro bag. The only reasons I do this is if I had a problem in the field with 1 component Im not trying to figure out what is way while my fingers are frozen lol or when I have the sled tore down completely for reference. Next pic is how much shorter the RSI block is than stock. This gives you more room for hand guards. IMG_7733.jpgIMG_7734.jpgIMG_7773.jpgIMG_7772.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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Looking at picking up a set of 163" Ice Age Rails and building a Khaos skid out of a non-Khaos sled.

I measured the Front Track Arm (inaccurately on the showroom floor) and they appear to be the same length- has anyone else measured this to confirm?

I did not meaasure the Front track shock CTC distance (unloaded)-- does anyone have this measurement?

How about the Rear track shock length/ Arm length?

It appears that the front track arm is in the same hole as an RMK and the rear drop brackets appear to be the same.
Hey Murph, The Front Track Arm is the same length as the stock RMK. I have the measurements for the shocks differences when I tore the skid down so I will look for them later unless someone else has them, it wasn't much if I remember like less than 1/2"? Maybe 1/4".
Interesting that Polaris recommendations for the FTS (installed length) max is 8.375 and 8.2" min on the stock RMK and 6.5" max and 6.25" on the Khaos.
The Rear Track Arm is also the same length and the bolt is in the upper hole of the tunnel. The limiter strap(s) are longer and of course the rails are a different geometry in the front along with longer travel front track spring.
I will add a few close up pics of the 162" Ice Age Rails installed on this sled.IMG_7855.jpgIMG_7856.jpgIMG_7857.jpgIMG_7854.jpg
 
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Murph

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Hey Murph, The Front Track Arm is the same length as the stock RMK. I have the measurements for the shocks differences when I tore the skid down so I will look for them later unless someone else has them, it wasn't much if I remember like less than 1/2"?
Interesting that Polaris recommendations for the FTS (installed length) max is 8.375 and 8.2" min on the stock RMK and 6.5" max and 6.25" on the Khaos.
The Rear Track Arm is also the same length and the bolt is in the upper hole of the tunnel. The limiter strap(s) are longer and of course the rails are a different geometry in the front along with longer travel front track spring.
I will add a few close up pics of the 162" Ice Age Rails installed on this sled
Thanks!!

To confirm:

Front Track arm= same
Front Track shock length CTC= different (Khaos longer? wonder if FTS measurement was misprint and supposed to be 8.5-8.25?) Still need that FTS CTC measurement
Front Track arm mounting hole= same

Rear Track arm length= same
Rear track shock length CTC= same
Rear Drop brackets=same

Rail profile= different curve on Khaos
1) are the mounting holes in similar position vertically from bottom of rail?
2) are they in a similar position front to back (or did thy effectively move skid backwards with mounting positions?)
 

Prayn4snow

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Thanks!!
To confirm:

Front Track arm= same
Front Track shock length CTC= different (Khaos longer? wonder if FTS measurement was misprint and supposed to be 8.5-8.25?) Still need that FTS CTC measurement
Front Track arm mounting hole= same

Rear Track arm length= same
Rear track shock length CTC= same
Rear Drop brackets=same

Rail profile= different curve on Khaos
1) are the mounting holes in similar position vertically from bottom of rail?
2) are they in a similar position front to back (or did thy effectively move skid backwards with mounting positions?)
Murph, Check out these pics of when I laid the Ice Age Khaos geometry rails on top of my stock rails. The 1st one is an optical illusion because I had them cut the Ice Age rails for the anti stab kit, but they FTA mount is the same. Next look at pic 2, it shows the same spot for the RTA and crossmember shaft. 3rd pic shows of course the rear rails are longer however there is an extra hole already there if you wanted to use Ice Age X brace or another crossmember shaft to stiffen things up over stock. Last pic is shows a few spots that line up including the scratchers. Hope this helps. More on the FTS measurements on the next post down.

IMG_7184.jpgIMG_7185.jpgIMG_7186.jpgIMG_7183.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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Thanks!!

To confirm:
Front Track shock length CTC= different (Khaos longer? wonder if FTS measurement was misprint and supposed to be 8.5-8.25?)
The Khaos Front Track shock Spring install length is in fact 6.25 min and 6.5" max stock. Mine came set at 6.25" and that is where I will start. My RTSS is 10.25" set for 160-220lb rider. I know Murph knows this, but for anyone else new to RMK's or the Khaos, if you're going to make changes to your rear skid spring tension start with small adjustments first and one at a time. Even small changes to the rear skid can make some very big changes. Keep a note or something in your phone so you can always change it back if you need to start over. Anyone have their Khaos shocks out to measure them?
 

TRS

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Looking at picking up a set of 163" Ice Age Rails and building a Khaos skid out of a non-Khaos sled.

I measured the Front Track Arm (inaccurately on the showroom floor) and they appear to be the same length- has anyone else measured this to confirm?

I did not meaasure the Front track shock CTC distance (unloaded)-- does anyone have this measurement?

How about the Rear track shock length/ Arm length?

It appears that the front track arm is in the same hole as an RMK and the rear drop brackets appear to be the same.
Great to see your back.
Time to ride Murph.
 

Murph

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Front Track arm= same
Front Track shock length CTC= different ( Still need that FTS CTC measurement)
Front Track arm mounting hole= same

Rear Track arm length= same
Rear track shock length CTC= same
Rear Drop brackets=same

Parts fiche confirms:
FTA=same part number 2016-2020
RTA=same part number 2016-2020 BUT lower part (REAR pivot arm that goes between rails and attaches to RTA) is unique to multiple 2020 models-- meaning it might just be a new supplier

Limiter straps (there are 2 like the previous Assaults) are unique to 2020 Khaos
 

Prayn4snow

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Front Track arm= same
Front Track shock length CTC= different ( Still need that FTS CTC measurement)
Front Track arm mounting hole= same

Rear Track arm length= same
Rear track shock length CTC= same
Rear Drop brackets=same

Parts fiche confirms:
FTA=same part number 2016-2020
RTA=same part number 2016-2020 BUT lower part (REAR pivot arm that goes between rails and attaches to RTA) is unique to multiple 2020 models-- meaning it might just be a new supplier

Limiter straps (there are 2 like the previous Assaults) are unique to 2020 Khaos
Yes the limiter straps are unique to the Khaos.
Ive had some questions on them being used with the Anti-stab kit. For those that were still wondering, It does draw them closer together at the bottom because of the taper of the shaft, and no they won't slide around. See pic below if this helps. IMG_7863.jpgIMG_7864.jpgIMG_7193.jpg
 

die hard poo

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Here is the thread which I compare a regular RMK and Khaos rear skid differences and install Khaos rails only onto a regular 2019 Pro RMK's suspension. To answer the question on shock length, the FTS on a Khaos is 12" CTC and a regular RMK is 11.75". As you stated, the FTA is the same on both. Rail profile is only different at the very tip. It tips up maybe 1/2"-3/4". See the pic in the thread.

 

Murph

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To answer the question on shock length, the FTS on a Khaos is 12" CTC and a regular RMK is 11.75".

Awesome! Thanks. I measured (inaccurately-- two assembled sleds on the showroom floor) and saw the .25 inch difference in length. Thank you for confirming(y)
 

Prayn4snow

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We've had a nasty winter storm here in Upper Michigan and have been without power for 4 days now with another big storm coming tonight. The last thing I was working on was handle bars and now trying out some RSI adjustable hand guards. These are also flexible for tree riding and won't brake when you roll your sled. They also have some LED lighted ones that I might switch to if I get a Skinz Helium hood that deletes the headlight. IMG_7766.jpgIMG_7768.jpgIMG_7769.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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These are really easy to install with just an allen wrench, the nuts have a built in slot to hold them, and you can see how flexible they are. Just mount the bracket on the back, the rest of the hardware is in the mounting brackets which come with a bunch of spacers so you can vary the width. By using the RSI billet throttle block (which is smaller than the stock shown) it frees up space on the bars, plus I love the built in kill switch that is a momentary switch. IMG_7767.jpgIMG_7771.jpgIMG_7772.jpgIMG_7773.jpg
 

Prayn4snow

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Which RSI bars are you using?
RSI has lots of options for different handlebars as you probably seen on their website. I used the 10 degree sweep handlebar part number AB-5-B. They use the factory hooks but I also like the backcountry bend and the Boondoggler's (which has the built in hooks). If you buy the bars with built in hooks they have longer grip heaters that extend all the way to the ends, longer insulators and grips. Or to make it easy I could also buy the kit part number AB-5-KIT for $164 which is cheaper than the stock replacement. http://www.rsiracing.com/POLARIS-5-RISE-ALUMINUM-HANDLEBAR-KIT_p_166.html
I see they also have an install video on how to do each step here if that helps: Something to keep in mind on bars, I pull the factory ones off with everything still on them (grips, heaters, kill switch) and keep them so you can re-install them if you sell your sled and keep the RSI set up for your next sled. Don't be surprised however once someone test rides your sled with the RSI set up that they insist it stays with the sled deal which can pay for its self in the end. IMG_7704.jpg
 
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