Calling all M1000 Guru's, I need some HELP

[dirtsnow]

I know this is long, but I really need help………..I just bought a 2008 M1000 which says it has 1100miles on it (but who really knows). It ran like crap when I got it, with a huge bog off the bottom (almost to the point of dying when you gas it from idle). I got the 09 ECU flash update done at the dealer, however before I could go ride it with the flash, I put a BDX intake, speedwerx tunnel dump can, and Power Commander V on it. I loaded a map that was supposed to work great for my setup, but it still ran like crap and had a huge bog off bottom. It was also idling really low around 1000rpm when cold, but when it was hot it would idle around 1500-1600. So I turned the idle up slightly with the set screw (and re-calibrated the TPS) so then it would idle 1500-1600 cold, but then it idles around 2000 hot… weird
I got a map from SLP (70-215) which is for set up for a full pipe kit and adds a TON of fuel (some cells add 84%). This map worked somewhat decent, got rid of a lot of the bog, but still doesn’t run great. Looking to try and make it better I contacted Eric at Racin’ Station in Idaho and he said he had a map that would work perfect for all my mods. Well, I loaded that map (no values over 10%) and I was back to square one. Eric asked how it ran w/ the stock map and I told him awful and he said well then there is something wrong with the sled. The bottom line is the sled runs better adding a lot of fuel in the bottom /mid RPM. Here is what I’ve checked:

-Fuel pressure – Currently at 46-47PSI (I was told this was high and stock is around 42)
-Power Valves – Cables adjusted properly, servo moves and appears to be functioning as normal. Power Valves are clean and move freely
-TPS low and high points were calibrated with the PCV
-Compression – I rented two gauges, one from Autozone and one from O-reilly. I can’t get anything over 35psi with either. I thought this was odd so I checked my M7 with only 400miles on it (and is also running like crap so I don’t know) and it had about the same pressure. Can a sled even run with compression that low because I think it’s got to be wrong? The sled seems to run fine on top (I don’t really know how hard it should pull though as I’m new to sledding.
-Pulled the reeds out and they fine
-The oiler is running at about a 40:1
-I’m running 85 octane fuel in it at 9000-11000’ elevation

Please give me Ideas or people to contact to help me get this sled rippin’ before any real snow falls in Colorado. Does this sound like I need a top end? When I start it, it’s not easy to pull so I know it has decent compression. Any ideas are welcome!

 

[scoop]

compression

Your compression needs to be alot more than 35 psi forsure. take both plug out, kill switch off, pull five or six times, holding the throttle wide open, until it dont build any more.It should build fast, like third or fourth pull should be near max psi. If it takes 10 pulls to build and its building slow you have a problem. My m1000 has around 140 but with a 14.5 to 1 head. I would think nothing under 110 or so, it would be nice to see it a little above that. Just shooting from the hip. Hope this helps.

 

[offroadmatt]

You must be doing the test wrong. As stated above give it several pulls and see where is stops at. My 07 M8 had 110 with 3500 miles. Also I never run less then 91 in my sleds at that same elevation.

 

[AaronBND]

Put Eric's map in and start dropping fuel pressure 2-3psi at a time and see if it cleans up. I have a 1000 that is always fat down low. I have had to settle between the 36-38psi mark on the gauge. Especially with the '09 update, they are fat down low to begin with. Also, something is not right with the compression gauges or how you are doing it. It wouldn't start with 35psi.

Aaron

P.S Offroadmatt, I always get stuck on your posts looking at your hot avatar girl!

 

[slomo]

disable the tss(throttle safty switch) in the throttle block to make sure that that is not what is causing your low ind bog

 

[AZ800]

Odds that both sleds you comp checked are that low, not likely. You must have done it wrong. With 35psi, the sled would pull over almost like there were no sparkplugs in it. The 1000 should be HARD to pull over, like 2 hand pull when cold.
What do the sparkplugs look like? Have you checked them after a good bog.
That'll help determine if it's a rich or lean bog...........if it's the engine at all.
My M1000 and M7 are both pretty sensitive to clutching and belt deflection.
Loose deflection and I can't get squat for rpms on either (although no bog).
Can't help on what fuel, although low octane at that alt should work fine since you don't have many mods. My 1000 in CO like premium but it was piped, intake and high comp head. M7 stock though would run fine on 87.
Does it bog all the time?
I had a bad injector wire that was rubbing and would make it bog/die sometimes when it grounded out.

 

[Qreiff]

You are doing your compression test with the throttle wide open Yes?!?!? If you are not, how do you suppose the engine is getting it's air?

 

[dirtsnow]

I'm going to get another compression gauge and try and get a better reading. I agree that its not right.

However, there is something weird going on because this is what my plugs look like. Each cylinder is different. I haven't looked at plugs much, but i know this isn't right.

PTO Side:


Mag Side:

 

[WyoBoy1000]

What are all your mods, you said you got a map for the slp but never really said what all mods where.

Look through the y-pipe with a flashlight and look at the pistons and cylinders, if there is scaring you need a top end, if not there is no reason you shouldn't have over 100psi should be around the 125-130. Even with throttle shut and 10 hard pulls.

Make sure the gauge is in tight and the other plug is tight when doing it.


If it idles up when hot and it was around a 1000rpm cold it means its really rich on fuel, but my 09 with 50psi fuel pressure still ran good. Stock fuel pressure is 42-47psi, I always ran mine higher.

Does it have a adjustable fuel pressure regulator,

Did you try unplugging the PCV, I think thats what you implied but not sure.

Check your ground wires

 

[High Country]

is that aluminum deposit on the mag side?

 

[dirtsnow]

Not sure what aluminum deposit looks like on plugs, but I did finally get a good compression test after mixing and matching parts from 3 testers! Both cylinders are at 110 psi.

I just changed the y-pipe to a speedwerx but haven't run it yet. While doing that i checked the sides of the pistons and they looked clean. I didn't get a flashlight out to look all around inside though (i realized now that would have been smart to do).

Mods include:
BDX intake
Speedwerx tunnel dump can
Stock pipe
Speedwerx Y-pipe... just added but only run in garage.
PCV

I do not have a fuel pressure regulator. After I get this problem solved should I get one? Is it really necessary? Where is the cheapest place to buy one?

I have tried running it w/o the PCV and it runs like crap. That is why im on here now. Eric from Racin' Station said if runs horribly w/o the PCV then there is something wrong with the motor.

 

[dirtsnow]

So my thought now is that the PTO side cylinder is getting more air than the Mag side by looking at the plugs.

Thoughts anyone else?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

The mods you listed without the y-pipe do not need a PCV or controller, Eric is right it should run fine. Is your barometric tube plugged or pinched, (clear tube coming out of ecu). Even with the fuel pressure it should run fine, I've ran mine at 53psi (highest I've gone) it run rich but still good.
Do you have another sled around you could steal stuff off of, like pipe sensor.

Just for the helI of it, un plug everything going to the handle bars, unplug the brake light wires down by the brake rotor, and the hood. You will have to plug the handle bars back in to turn it off. If any of that stuff is the problem it will eliminate it and you will know whats up.

Maybe injector issues, test by unplugging things and let us know.

FYI, even with the y-added it should still run fine I just would make any WOT pulls over 5-8 seconds or run steady throttle on the trail.

 

[mr p-j]

long shot, but if the crank shaft seal on the pto side is leaking it can cause that cylinder to run leaner.

since one cylinder is running richer then the other and you have equal compression i´d say: seal, reads, faulty injector, messed up settings on your fuel box. so one cylinder gets more fuel.did not catch what kind of fuel controller you got either way the bd-box has a setting for giving one cylinder more fuel than the other.

spark issues usually occurs at full throttle when you load your engine hard so i think that your problem is fuel and not the spark.

simple things to check is to spray motorstarter gas on the pto seal and see if the rpm vary.
disconnect your fuel controller and see how she runs.

good luck

 

[offroadmatt]

I'm going to get another compression gauge and try and get a better reading. I agree that its not right.

However, there is something weird going on because this is what my plugs look like. Each cylinder is different. I haven't looked at plugs much, but i know this isn't right.

PTO Side:
View attachment 166161

Mag Side:
View attachment 166160

Just for the hell of it grab one of those laser heat guns and check the temps on each cylinder while its running. Seems to me like something might be going on with one of the injectors or maybe something with the reeds.

 

[offroadmatt]

P.S Offroadmatt, I always get stuck on your posts looking at your hot avatar girl!

Thats nothing you should see my user profile!

 

[dirtsnow]

Update:

I put the stock map back on (all zeros in every cell of the Power Commander V). By the way, you can set up the PCV to control the cylinders individually, but i am currently not doing that. One map running both injectors.

I hooked up a 12V car battery to both injectors and made them Click a whole bunch of times. I've heard that can free them up and clean them out. I also used an Ohm meter to check to the make sure both injectors were the same,

Started it, and still has the bog.

Next I went w/ the Crank seal idea. So i started it and sprayed starting fluid all behind the primary while running. It didn't idle up or do anything, so I think my seal is ok.

I did check the reeds (v-force 3) in the beginning. They looked great. No cracking, warping or anything unusual. I ohmed the injectors and they were both at .012. I have no idea if thats in spec, but at least I know they are both the same. Next I'm going to pull them out and try this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY&feature=related

 

[HIDY]

Hey bro i have a 08 1000 mine ran like crap all the way through the throttle expecially on the bottom end so i delt with it finally the sled died on a pull so i restarted it and i could not get over idel or it would die so i checked everything ohms readings read good changed the stator it runs good now.
The stator ohms checked good cold but didnt when it was warm. Dont know if thats your problem but my 2 cents.
Go through your clutches also.
Is the boge slowly getting worse

 

[dirtsnow]

I can feather through the bog, its not the clutching, its definitely the motor. if its idling and pin the throttle for half a second, it bogs out. I guess i'm thinking injectors or servo motor for the power valves maybe. If it was the stator, then both cylinders would be running the same, but its obvious that one is running lean and the other rich.

 

[HIDY]

Did it slowly start getting boggy