• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Which belt is everyone running?

BeartoothBaron

Well-known member
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Nov 2, 2017
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Roberts, MT
View attachment 335278View attachment 335277The Top cogs are for cooling, the area above the cord is not designed to drive the belt. For years manufacturers relieved this area and Some still do. I believe they stopped this process because of cost, it adds another process. Bean counters run every process today.
Relieving the top also helps stop the “pulled cord” we witness. This also helps the stock belt.
Thanks for the pics; for some reason I was picturing trimming the cogs across the top of the belt (which, of course, didn't make much sense). I remember reading that one of the more expensive Poo belts had a machined finish – or something like that. Guessing that means they do something similar to this. I'll try trimming the top cogs on my Gates belts, hopefully that'll eliminate the off-idle squeal and creeping without having to run a looser deflection. One question though: looks like you trim it flat to the plane of the belt, not trying to match the side angle, is that correct?
 

TRS

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Cody, WY
We carry them in a tunnel bag. It’s also a nice place to pack water, tools, spare parts, plugs, etc.
It sure is a nice way to get weight out of your backpack and off your back.
 

TRS

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08-15 44C4553
16-20 45C4553
850. 45C4553
You can use a 47C4572 on all models, it’s a longer belt for those long center to center measured sleds.
In reality you can run any of these Gates belts. Sheave angles on the Polaris clutch’s vary widely. So do the belt to sheave measurements from the factory. Check yours to verify it’s within spec.
 

deschutes

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Jan 23, 2008
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Gates Carbon, broken in per the manufacturer process. We will spend an early season morning on the trail breaking in some spare belts so they are ready for the deep days. If you don't break these belts in properly, they won't perform to their potential.

Gates New Belt Break In Process:
  • New belts require a break-in period of a minimum 30 miles and two heat cycles to maximize belt life and performance. The goal of the break-in period is to properly wear in the belt to match the sheaves before applying maximum engine torque. By conservatively running through the entire shift range, proper belt contact over the entire sheave/belt contact path is optimized to eliminate belt slippage and drastically increase the belt’s lifespan.
  • Blow out the clutches with compressed air if possible. This removes dust, dirt and debris and allows the clutch system to operate correctly. If the previous belt broke, remove all the debris and cord if any is left in the Primary or Secondary clutches.
  • Clean the clutch sheaves with maroon Scotch Brite pads and wipe them clean with alcohol or acetone poured or sprayed on a rag – do not spray into the clutches. This removes the old belt residue and oils which causes the new belt to slip and glaze. It also provides the new belt a clean surface to transfer power.
  • Install new belt so it can be read right side up. Do Not roll or pry in the new belt. You may need to adjust your deflection. See the owner’s manual for proper alignment and Center to Center distances of the clutch system.
  • Perform 2 Heat Cycles.
  • HEAT CYCLE 1: Drive the unit for 20 minutes avoiding hard accelerations and hills - conservatively running through the entire shift range, without exceeding ¾ throttle. Flat terrain works best.
  • After 20 minutes of driving, let the unit cool down for 30 minutes with the motor off.
  • Repeat the HEAT CYCLE: for a second time. Let the belt cool down again for 30 minutes and you have a well broken in belt.
 
Aug 20, 2011
398
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Soo/Menominee MI
Well i did try a continental belt(because my local autozone is supposed to start stocking them), was very tight to begin with, but i adjusted the deflection so it was good, was taking it a relative easy on for breaking literal trail through 2 feet of fresh, and after about 25 miles it popped both cords and delaminated. Wasnt shocked, judging by construction. Will end up buying a gates here pretty quick.
 
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