• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Which belt is everyone running?

Aug 20, 2011
398
74
28
Soo/Menominee MI
Sold my sks 146 and picked up a 19 pro rmk 155 2.6 800 and want to grab a spare or two. Stock belt looks ok(rental sled), but i wanna get some solid replacements. Most threads i looked at where older, and i wanted to see what everyone determined worked well on these.
 
Mar 9, 2017
169
31
28
stillwater MN
47c4572 longer for 11.6 center to center or 45c4553 for 11.5 center to center. Most axys i check are 11.6. If you have 11.6 the 47c will allow you to run higher in the secondary, lower gear ratio to start without squealing the belt.. I just order 3 47c from trs, great price and he takes the top cog down a tad before he ships them. They are a tad wider (.020)but should work fine with stock belt to sheave clearance.
 
Jan 20, 2009
310
55
28
Northern Utah
I prefer the gates Xtreme for price, performance, and wear. They don't wear as well as stock but you can buy three for the price of one stock. I use my stock for a spare because I believe the carbon compounds are too hard on the clutch and wear nasty grooves in the sheaves.
 

tuneman

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jan 16, 2013
834
675
93
Minnesota
www.everettsports.net
Gates 45C4553 for me. I got detonation with the stock belt, but my sheaves were too wide then. I'd check the gap. If it's more than .030", then maybe get the other Gates belt that TRS recommends.
 

GoBigParts

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
3,742
759
113
50
Michigan
www.gobigparts.com
I've been running Gates carbon with great sucess. Put it on at the beginning of the season last year and it is still on my sled. Runs as good as my stock one did.

I am going to be testing Gboost this year. From what they have done in the side x side industry I believe they have it figured out and are doing things new and beyond what the standard belts and materials are.

https://www.gobigparts.com/Snowmobile-Products/Drive/gboost-drive-belts/polaris-gboost-belts/


 
Last edited:

idahosledder

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
95
31
18
Idaho Falls, Idaho
I have been running the Gates 45C4553 for the last couple of years with no problem.
Based on this thread I ordered a 47C4572 due to my center to center on my clutches.
Apparently my clutch clearance is on the tight side as the sled wants to creep at idle.
Going to put a few miles on and see if it loosens up a bit.
Regardless, I am sold on the Gates C12 belts, just make sure to break them in right.
 
Mar 9, 2017
169
31
28
stillwater MN
I have been running the Gates 45C4553 for the last couple of years with no problem.
Based on this thread I ordered a 47C4572 due to my center to center on my clutches.
Apparently my clutch clearance is on the tight side as the sled wants to creep at idle.
Going to put a few miles on and see if it loosens up a bit.
Regardless, I am sold on the Gates C12 belts, just make sure to break them in right.
TRS takes a little off the top of the cog on the 47c when you order from him.
I have a 47c stock and a 47c TRS modified and the stock one was to tight belt to sheave and wanted to spin the track in the air no matter how loose or low i had my belt in secondary. With that said i do not run 10 series weights so remember my belt to sheave was setup around .015-.020 with 45c belt. The modified TRS 47c was better and I am going to break that one in as is without adding shim and see how it goes.

I just got another clutch in that was setup by inday dan with 115 belt and 10 series weights. With the 47c belt i had to add shim to spider. I think Dan likes to shim in the .020-.030 range?

I would think a stock clutch from factory would run a 47c belt no problem but who knows as i have seen them jump around on belt to sheave.

I really like the idea of the 47c belt being longer and think if you have to re shim it is the right thing to do if you are in the 11.6 range. It just makes sense to me as before i could not get the 45c belt real high in secondary before sled wanted to creep or squeeeel .
 

BeartoothBaron

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 2, 2017
364
225
43
Roberts, MT
Different sled, but I'm also running the 47c belt; that's what Gates cross-references to the Polaris 080 belt, even though the added width and length make it a poor choice for a drop-in replacement. Be aware that the side angle is 28º, 115 is 26º. Not a show-stopper from what I hear, but the 48C and 45C would have the "correct" side angle for the AXYS. I also noticed that the top cog seems to kick out from the base angle; could that be why it tends to engage the primary at idle more?

Anyway, I had my clutch serviced and side clearance set by IndyDan, so that took care of the side clearance (which was negative when I first test-fit the 47c: it would wedge before it got to the hub). I set and aligned everything to spec, but found I had to open up the belt deflection more than usual. Otherwise, it wanted to pull a little at idle, and sometimes squealed between idle and engagement. Maybe the C12 just needs more deflection than most? Regardless, one season of riding down, and everything looks like new. I need to get a second one and break it in so I have a good-to-go matching spare, but I'll be surprised if it goes bad any time soon. Better men than me have tried and failed to blow the C12!
 

idahosledder

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
95
31
18
Idaho Falls, Idaho
TRS takes a little off the top of the cog on the 47c when you order from him.
I have a 47c stock and a 47c TRS modified and the stock one was to tight belt to sheave and wanted to spin the track in the air no matter how loose or low i had my belt in secondary. With that said i do not run 10 series weights so remember my belt to sheave was setup around .015-.020 with 45c belt. The modified TRS 47c was better and I am going to break that one in as is without adding shim and see how it goes.

I just got another clutch in that was setup by inday dan with 115 belt and 10 series weights. With the 47c belt i had to add shim to spider. I think Dan likes to shim in the .020-.030 range?

I would think a stock clutch from factory would run a 47c belt no problem but who knows as i have seen them jump around on belt to sheave.

I really like the idea of the 47c belt being longer and think if you have to re shim it is the right thing to do if you are in the 11.6 range. It just makes sense to me as before i could not get the 45c belt real high in secondary before sled wanted to creep or squeeeel .
I am hesitant to re shim simply because I know the way it is now I can run both a stock belt or a 45C with no issues.
Like I said, I will put some break in miles on and see how it feels after that. If nothing else I will pick up another 45C and keep this for a spare (along with the pile I already have).
 

TRS

Life Member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 1, 2007
2,936
3,293
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Cody, WY
981CA187-DD54-4F67-9760-C6501530A8E4.jpeg33B537E8-58FF-4582-A10A-5C3BE71963F4.jpegThe Top cogs are for cooling, the area above the cord is not designed to drive the belt. For years manufacturers relieved this area and Some still do. I believe they stopped this process because of cost, it adds another process. Bean counters run every process today.
Relieving the top also helps stop the “pulled cord” we witness. This also helps the stock belt.
 

TRS

Life Member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 1, 2007
2,936
3,293
113
Cody, WY
Gates works great oon Axys chassis--- BUT check your alignment. The stock belt is more forgiving if the clutches are slightly out of alignment, the Gates belts not so much.

Do NOT backbend a Gates belt to fit in the belt holder under the hood--the backbend will cause a failure on the Gates.
Thanks Murph.
 
View attachment 335278View attachment 335277The Top cogs are for cooling, the area above the cord is not designed to drive the belt. For years manufacturers relieved this area and Some still do. I believe they stopped this process because of cost, it adds another process. Bean counters run every process today.
Relieving the top also helps stop the “pulled cord” we witness. This also helps the stock belt.
So this is for both gates and oem or which, you state is also helps the stock belt and is a little confusing, Thanks
 
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