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Stock ski pads fix?

skibreeze

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I've put in the C&A rubbers and they are a direct fit, not mods needed. However, they have torn just like the Polaris rubber. Back to square one trying to find a rubber that is more durable.
 
T

Trenchmaster

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LOL, first it's Doo thermostats now Doo ski rubbers, when will someone come out with a kit to put the E- Tech in our Poo's.
 
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mountainhorse

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Snubbers???

I've put in the C&A rubbers and they are a direct fit, not mods needed. However, they have torn just like the Polaris rubber. Back to square one trying to find a rubber that is more durable.

First...Let me say that I respect all the opinions and options presented in this thread. (sincerely)

I'm not surprised that they split like the stockers... based on my observations below.
Can you post up some pics of your split C&A Snubbers?

I have the C&A snubbers here. They do not sit at the same angle in relation to the ski as the stock snubbers. The C&A snubbers in the Grippers will incline the ski, nose up, considerably more than the stock gripper snubbers . The included angle on the stock and the C&A are the same and they "seat" well on the PRO spindle base.

Also, they are a bit Shorter to the bottom of the pad, by about 1/8".

Lastly, the C&A snubbers do not have slots in them to accommodate the "ribs" as pointed out with red arrows in the last photo... those are a full 5/8" taller than "base" flat the the C&A's need to sit at. I could see slotting the C&A.

attachment.php


Does the different angle of the skis make a difference in the performance of the ski?? Not sure... But I suspect that it will affect reversing the sled and "dig" in the tail of the ski (Note: The C&A skis have a much more tipped up tail).

I'm going to try to slot the C&A Snubbers on a jig on the table saw to accommodate the ribs on the skis (red arrows) and also shim them up the 1/8" off the base of the ski to see if it works out with a good fit in the gripper. I really don't want to be carving up the ribs in the center area at this point.

If you simply bolted this C&A Snubber into the sled with the ribs pressing against the back by "leveraging" the ski to get the bolts in... I can see the snubber splitting easily.

The C&A snubber IS noticeably stiffer than the stocker and will distribute the load over a wider area... so that will be good.... but the angle still has me concerned.



C&A Snubbers compared to Stock Gripper snubbers.



Stock snubber in front, C&A behind.

attachment.php



C&A snubber in front, Stock behind.
attachment.php



attachment.php


attachment.php
C&A compared to Slydog

attachment.php
I also have the SlyDogs snubbers... They have the identical inclination as the gripper snubbers but are about 1/4" shorter than stock snubbers...They are also stiffer and will distribute the load over a wider area than the stockers.

I belive that if I can give an even, flat support to the backside of the Slydogs snubber on the Grippers, with the same installed height and recess for the ribs that these will be the best option between these two (C&A and Slydogs).

Stock snubbers compared to Slydogs

attachment.php

















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C&A comparison 1.jpg C&A comparison 2.jpg Gripper ski.jpg Stock and C&A.jpg Stock and C&A 2.jpg stock and slydog.jpg Stock and Slydogs.jpg C&A and Slydog.jpg
 
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mountainhorse

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I haven't tried the REV snubbers.

Do you have any pics of the backside of the REV snubber?

I'm concerned with the raised ribs in the gripper ski, same as above.

How well do the back sides of the REV snubber and the snubber-pocket of the gripper ski "mate"?

In your photo, The backside of the Doo snubber looks hollow... is this the actual case?

ynypumu3.jpg


Keep us in the loop as to how this works out throughout the season...

Thanks for the heads up.


Mountainhorse....

Have you tried it?

I just did it, you put the skidoo rubbers in.
Put the bolt in.
done!!!

Like I said it's a tight fit.
But you can put the rubbers in with no modifications.
Start the bolt on the outside and put a 2x4 under the inside of the ski.


Just a heads up :)













.
 
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skibreeze

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MH, the rubbers that C&A sent me look to be identical to the Slydog one you pictured. I did not use the ones that angle up the ski. I didn't get pics, but they ripped, damn near in half.
 

mountainhorse

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MH, the rubbers that C&A sent me look to be identical to the Slydog one you pictured. I did not use the ones that angle up the ski. I didn't get pics, but they ripped, damn near in half.

Skibreeze,

The snubbers in my photos in post #23 are C&A snubbers, as noted directly above each photo... Not Slydogs.

The slydogs snubbers are shown (not well) in the bottom photo, between the skis, second one from the right... you can barely make out the sharpie "Slydogs" handwritten on the rubber. I'll try to post up a pic and edit the post.

Post #23

I've put in the C&A rubbers and they are a direct fit, not mods needed. However, they have torn just like the Polaris rubber. Back to square one trying to find a rubber that is more durable.

First...Let me say that I respect all the opinions and options presented in this thread. (sincerely)

I'm not surprised that they split like the stockers... based on my observations below.
Can you post up some pics of your split C&A Snubbers?

I have the C&A snubbers here. They do not sit at the same angle in relation to the ski as the stock snubbers. The C&A snubbers in the Grippers will incline the ski, nose up, considerably more than the stock gripper snubbers . The included angle on the stock and the C&A are the same and they "seat" well on the PRO spindle base.

Also, they are a bit Shorter to the bottom of the pad, by about 1/8".

Lastly, the C&A snubbers do not have slots in them to accommodate the "ribs" as pointed out with red arrows in the last photo... those are a full 5/8" taller than "base" flat the the C&A's need to sit at. I could see slotting the C&A.

attachment.php


Does the different angle of the skis make a difference in the performance of the ski?? Not sure... But I suspect that it will affect reversing the sled and "dig" in the tail of the ski (Note: The C&A skis have a much more tipped up tail).

I'm going to try to slot the C&A Snubbers on a jig on the table saw to accommodate the ribs on the skis (red arrows) and also shim them up the 1/8" off the base of the ski to see if it works out with a good fit in the gripper. I really don't want to be carving up the ribs in the center area at this point.

If you simply bolted this C&A Snubber into the sled with the ribs pressing against the back by "leveraging" the ski to get the bolts in... I can see the snubber splitting easily.

The C&A snubber IS noticeably stiffer than the stocker and will distribute the load over a wider area... so that will be good.... but the angle still has me concerned.



C&A Snubbers compared to Stock Gripper snubbers.



Stock snubber in front, C&A behind.

attachment.php



C&A snubber in front, Stock behind.
attachment.php



attachment.php


attachment.php
C&A compared to Slydog

attachment.php
I also have the SlyDogs snubbers... They have the identical inclination as the gripper snubbers but are about 1/4" shorter than stock snubbers...They are also stiffer and will distribute the load over a wider area than the stockers.

I belive that if I can give an even, flat support to the backside of the Slydogs snubber on the Grippers, with the same installed height and recess for the ribs that these will be the best option between these two (C&A and Slydogs).

Stock snubbers compared to Slydogs

attachment.php















.
























.

I haven't tried the REV snubbers.

Do you have any pics of the backside of the REV snubber?

I'm concerned with the raised ribs in the gripper ski, same as above.

How well do the back sides of the REV snubber and the snubber-pocket of the gripper ski "mate"?

In your photo, The backside of the Doo snubber looks hollow... is this the actual case?

ynypumu3.jpg


Keep us in the loop as to how this works out throughout the season...

Thanks for the heads up.
















.









.
 
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skibreeze

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MH, I know. I saw the sharpie saying Slydog, those are the same ones C&A has available. They have different ones depending on the year. I didn't use the really angled ones, because of the angle.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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The bottom of the rev rubbers just squishes into the plastic ribs in the bottom of the grippers.

This fills the air gap below the rubber at least in the middle where the stock rubber sits.
 
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mountainhorse

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Oregon.... I have respect for your posts on here and always read when you post.
I can see in the pics of your softail that show you take pride in your work... so do I.

I also know that from the the other thread that others have used the C&A like Skibreeze, WJL, LoudHandle, ShredTheRev and others...

Not my intent to make anything more difficult than it is.... and my questions and concerns here come out of genuine interest in doing a good job that is reliable for all.

NOT AT ALL my intent to challenge anyone's abilities or installs I'm simply looking for information and trying to do a quality install.

I've been out in the backcountry on a bottomless day with broken snubbers on a different sled... not fun.... so I simply want to have confidence that my installations will not cause me headaches.

How did you overcome the 5/8" rise in the ribs shown?... All of the C&A snubbers are flat backed and high durometer... I cant see that lasting long.

In skibreeze's case, the C&A # 77000271, from the 76000270 C&A kit, have already failed (torn) .

If you make no recess for the ribs... then the only contact point (given the stiff duro of the C&A mount) is just the 1/4" wide ribs that hit the backside of the snubber.

IMO... "Smashing" them against two narrow ribs does not feel right... FOR ME. I would rather have the entire backside of the snubber supported and not "pinch" the rubber.

Which C&A snubber did you install from the photos above? (I'm assuming the thinner 76000271's from the 2011 C&A mount kit {76000224} like skibreeze used??)

How much riding time do you have on yours? (sincere question... not a "jab")

Have you put your sled with the new rubbers into situations that would have folded the stock rubbers like the photo below from Meathooker... or tried to fold it up by hand?

I've Bummed a couple of the 76000271 snubbers from a neighbor that just got the new BX's for his 2011 pro... I try and "mash them in and see what happens... Hopefully tonight. I've tried this with the '266 C&A snubbers and they just won't "smash" down enough over the ribs to get a bolt in.

6FEA0EAB-9FC2-488A-A0A9-3B7942B76A27-1534-000000BE44448DA8_zps3df3eefd.jpg













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R

rmscustom

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How about instead of cutting grooves in the new rubbers or just installing as is why not fill the skis to the top of the ribs with an epoxy or something so the rubber wouldn't be cut and have full support?
 
O

Oregonsledder

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I installed the C&A no modifications. They are working fine. Don't make this more complicated than it needs to be.

MH, the snubbers do not do much of anything except keep the skis in their proper location under normal use, pretty simple achievement if you ask me, ribs, no ribs the skis and you won't know the difference. The issue as I see it, is the space filled between the spindle and the ski well and is it tight, if so mission accomplished. I have run gripper skis on several sleds sine they first came out and the stock snubbers wear over time but I have never had one in my shop that has failed and caused a catastrophic problem. Again, pretty simple device. MH you work hard here and provide a lot of research and great info, but sometimes simple things can be just that. I put in the C&A snubbers right out of the package and got the tight fit I wanted with the range of ski motion I wanted, and yes I have had them in over the hood hard down hill turns and in reverse, they don’t feel any different than the stock snubbers but should not fail as soon. My 2 cents worth.
 

mountainhorse

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I've put in the C&A rubbers and they are a direct fit, not mods needed.
However, they have torn just like the Polaris rubber.

Hope you can take a moment to answer some q's

skibreeze.... do you have any photos of your torn C&A's snummbers that you installed on the grippers?

How/Where did they tear?

Did it happen fairly quick or did you have a lot of riding on it?

Thanks










.
 
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AKSNOWRIDER

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I don't want to piss anyone off..but do you guys understand what is causing the split rubbers? its real simple, hook a strap to a ski eye and lift the sled up with it..you will see what/why it splits and what its trying to do to the rubber. when you hit things that force the ski tip up beyond what it was designed for it tries to compress the front edge of the rubber, and in the process it tries to squeeze the rubber out the back of the ski..on the grippers the way we fix this is to heat both the front and rear walls of the pocket the rubber sets in and then bend them closer togeather(large vice grips are what I use), the rear wall is the main culprit and once you move it forward you will stop having issue until the wall bends back.. this has been an issue since at least the dragons and once we started moving the walls togeather as need we stopped having issues until they got bent back outward..doesn't take much movement to cause it...
 

skibreeze

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I don't have pics, but I will get an opportunity again as I put those on my other sleds as well. They tear almost all the way across, right at the front edge of the spindle. I don't think that the ribs in the ski affects how they tear.
 

mountainhorse

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Room to move.

I think you may be on to something here Mike.


I don't want to piss anyone off..but do you guys understand what is causing the split rubbers? its real simple, hook a strap to a ski eye and lift the sled up with it..you will see what/why it splits and what its trying to do to the rubber. when you hit things that force the ski tip up beyond what it was designed for it tries to compress the front edge of the rubber, and in the process it tries to squeeze the rubber out the back of the ski..on the grippers the way we fix this is to heat both the front and rear walls of the pocket the rubber sets in and then bend them closer togeather(large vice grips are what I use), the rear wall is the main culprit and once you move it forward you will stop having issue until the wall bends back.. this has been an issue since at least the dragons and once we started moving the walls togeather as need we stopped having issues until they got bent back outward..doesn't take much movement to cause it...
 
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