Rear skid setup

[hybelkaninen]

Hi!
Iv been a member for quite some time now, but iv just been sucking up all the info I could about the 900. This is my second 900 as my first had a date With a tree at higher speeds :mmph: but apart from that it were the best damn sled I have ever owned. So heres the question, I recently bough a Switchback 900 and afther thinking about how to get the *** of the sled abit higher than it is now. the shocks is maxed on pre load, and the square spring is at the highest setting. then afther much tinkering back and forth, I found that there were 2 holes on the rear braket for the skid. Now would it be possible to move the skid Mount to the rear hole without any mods the skid or springs? from my logic moving the skid to the rear hole the tunnel will rise a bit higher from the ground than it is now.

 

[Cerialsledder]

So basically what it comes down to is you want to eliminate the rear sag in the suspension?

You can adjust the torsion springs to their max stiffness and if you can try and find a rear 225# track spring and that should help you out quite a bit

 

[hybelkaninen]

well the thing I kind of were wondering about were what happens if i bolt the rear mount in the back one of the two holes. Im kind of looking for more height than there is originally , sort of getting the whole tunnel higher of the ground. not just tightening the springs:face-icon-small-ton

 

[TrailRebel]

The Switchback was the same chassis as the 151" RMK. The rear hole in the mount is for the longer track. The 144" track will not fit in the rear mounting hole.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

 

[treetopflyer]

Are you referring to the tunnel bracket where you bolt the skid to the tunnel ? or something else ?

 

[hybelkaninen]

Are you referring to the tunnel bracket where you bolt the skid to the tunnel ? or something else ?

yes, the rear bracet where the skid Mounts there are 2 holes. jo i was just wondering if i could get some more hight if i moved it back.
so while were at it, does any of you guys know how to make the thing slightly higher than it is no? is the only way chopping of the brackets and making som larger ones ? or is there any stores who sell drop brackets? I realy apreciate Your help, thanks alot!!:face-icon-small-hap

 

[Cerialsledder]

yes, the rear bracet where the skid Mounts there are 2 holes. jo i was just wondering if i could get some more hight if i moved it back.
so while were at it, does any of you guys know how to make the thing slightly higher than it is no? is the only way chopping of the brackets and making som larger ones ? or is there any stores who sell drop brackets? I realy apreciate Your help, thanks alot!!:face-icon-small-hap

If you have the 144 skid then it will be bolted to the front hole on that rear bracket.... the rear hole is for the 155 skid

 

[guidoxpress]

Man, this is prolly the most common question ever...so glad I started this thread while back, it's been the #1 source for the info on this..

Here is the link, http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165462

Now, I'm not being rude towards you...just throwing this out there for others..
#1 you are a basic member, so you won't be able to see all the threads with the info...yet most guys that are basic members, refuse to pay the membership and always want info from others cause they won't pay to see it..we are paid and we all put in time and effort, so please consider that and suffer with the rest of us to help alleviate the strain this stuff puts on others

2. This torsion spring info listed below and in the thread is BY FAR the best and more accurate info, I've done it And it's amazing..so if you don't wanna spend the $150 on new torsion spring so or get other Springs then what's listed, that's on you and was not what we recommended...and if that's too much money for you, there is no way will get what your after by going another route.."trust me I am the king of cheap"

Below is directly from Curt at Fastrax Motorsports, and is the BEST guy ever...as well as an input from MOuntain Horse

Curt Really knows his stuff on the Polaris skid setups... probably better than anyone out there that I know.

I'd follow his lead without hesitation on this.

Part numbers
7042079-067 Spring, Torsion, LH, STD [.375/47 °]
7042080-067 Spring, Torsion, RH, STD [.375/47 °]


Quote:
Originally Posted by FTXMOTORSPORTS
You should also consider the 7042079/7042080 torsion set. They use a tighter spring leg angle which gives you a little more preload at the top of the skids travel.This helps a couple things...it allows you to run the spring on a softer setting and still supports you and the sled properly which extends the life of the spring. The spring will also have more effect at the beginning of travel which helps eliminate the dead spot all these skids have-this unsprung/undampened area of travel is a big reason why the IQ was a bit on the wild side with weight transfer-to much scissor collapse right off the bat.
These are our go to springs for any one over 220#(which I'm one of by the way!) I have a full season on them in my turbo 163 and they are still on the soft setting-haven't had to add any more pre load since installation which indicates that they are not "sacking out".

curt

 

[guidoxpress]

Then do the 225 lb front track spring $30, and move your lower scissor arm back 5/8" And your money...promise..your next option is timbersled skid

The rear hole is for 159/166 skids only!!!

Front Hole is for 144/151 skids only!!!

 

[hybelkaninen]

Guiodxpress an you others, thanks for all that great info, its kind of embarrassing but i didn´t know there were anything other than just basic :face-icon-small-sad

 

[guidoxpress]

a little more info for you with pics

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=364552