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2.6 vs 3.0 ......thoughts.

I'm honestly not sure why Polaris wants the 3.0 geared down to a 2.52 ratio.

My vote was - track warranty.

Saw the same thing when the gearing was announced, and was the first thing I came up with. Nothing blows up a pow track like speed=heat. Top speed on the dream-o-meter with that gearing might be 72, 73 mph at sea level, 65 or lower at elevation.
 
I know you know that it also depends on the clutching they have in it. I have read a lot of your posts and know you have plenty of knowledge to know it is the total package from clutching ( i.e. springs, weights, helix ) to gearing that makes a sled perform.

No doubt.
 
My vote was - track warranty.

Saw the same thing when the gearing was announced, and was the first thing I came up with. Nothing blows up a pow track like speed=heat. Top speed on the dream-o-meter with that gearing might be 72, 73 mph at sea level, 65 or lower at elevation.

Not a bad thought there.
 
I think the 2.6 is right almost in between the 2.4 and X3, but closer to the X3.

If I had my preference in an AXYS, I'd have a series 7, 3.0" lug with a belt drive.

So, I'd probably get the three inch track and put aTKI on it.

I know when I changed my 12 from the chaincase to the belt (TKI) the lowest ratio I could go was to the 2.25 I believe...the bottom part of the case gets in the way of the lower gear. The different size drivers could make up some of the difference maybe? I do like the TKI tho..
 
I know when I changed my 12 from the chaincase to the belt (TKI) the lowest ratio I could go was to the 2.25 I believe...the bottom part of the case gets in the way of the lower gear. The different size drivers could make up some of the difference maybe? I do like the TKI tho..

Can a person gear lower on a TKI that replaces a QD than on a chaincase replacement?
 
Can a person gear lower on a TKI that replaces a QD than on a chaincase replacement?

Yes, the QD does not have the part of the chaincase enclosure, can go down to 2.56 I believe. A person may be able to remove the inner of part of the chaincase and grind the part of the enclosure off, not sure what it would do structurally, would have to check with Tom at TKI, he could tell you.
 
I got an email from polaris that i had until April 14th to change anything i wanted on my snow check. After reading this thread, i was second guessing my choice of the 2.6 paddle. I called and got it changed to a 3" paddle yesterday. I think i am really going to enjoy the 3" as i was torn between the 2 in the beginning.
 
Yes getting snow in it. It's a straight shot to the belt drive unlike the footwell holes and I know a little snow won't hurt, but all I can imagine is it keep building up and icing right below the belt. There was a terrible fit and that hole went all along the bottom of the belt drive. The Polaris guys didn't even notice it and were stumped, eventually claiming it was just a pre production sled with some issues stil.

Thick bead of black silicone?

Why in the hell should you have to do that on 13-14k sled. I'm sure it will not be that way on production models, but if it is I for one would be pissed. I cannot get away with that in my business and would not let them.

Actually, I have a thought that's 180° from my previous answer.
I'm not saying they should all have that gap there...but....

Drainage.

I've had days where I had BIG snow build up around my bottom gear that turned to ice after it had nowhere to go. It came in through the footwell, hoot vents and shock tower plugs.
When it melted it has nowhere to go if you seal that off under the gears.
That's the lowest point under that gear, so the water will collect there (and become ice if it has nowhere to go.

I have a VanAmburg drop pan under my belly pan, so I made sure there were a couple drain holes in the plastic belly pan so the water could escape.

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