primary stuck on

poledge800 · Oct 25, 2011

i bought a pro with about 500 miles on it and going through the pre season checks on it and when i went to pull the primary clutch off it wont budge we have tried heating it a little put grease in the end as to hydrolically remove it and just cant seem to get it off has anyone else had this problem i talk to the local dealer and they said to bring it in and they will try it and talked to polaris it still has 1 year warranty left on just wondering what you guys thoughts would be on it and if polaris will cover it

SLDHVN · Oct 25, 2011

first, check and make sure you have the right clutch puller

if it has warranty let the dealer screw with it

if you are determined to get the clutch off yourself...
-tilt the sled on its side
-take the clutch bolt out
-fill the hole with water
-wrap your threads on the clutch puller 6 to 8 times with thread tape
-slowly insert the puller while trying to keep as much water in the hole as possible
-then hold the clutch in whatever manner you prefer
-and try again
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT A SIDE LOAD ON THE CLUTCH/CRANK SNUB

My pro was a pain in the arse to pop the clutch off

Good Luck

Schmeg · Oct 25, 2011

Clutches in themselves are usually on there pretty good. Using a clutch holding tool along with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and just enough socket length or extension length just to get the breaker bar outside of the cowling works best for me. I used to remove primaries without using a holder, I have found the holder makes a big difference, and it precludes putting too much sideways torque on the crank stub. even with this setup, you need to reef on it fairly well, then when it comes off, it will make a bang.

Milton900 · Oct 25, 2011

mine popped right off with an electric impact

Zrider · Oct 25, 2011

Milton900 said:
mine popped right off with an electric impact

What brand of electric impact do you have?

Oregonsledder · Oct 25, 2011

Zrider said:
What brand of electric impact do you have?

Impact wrenches, air or electric are not recommended. I know many shops use them, but I never would. There is the possibility of knocking your crank out of balance, and there are magneto magents on the inside of the flywheel that could be knocked loose.
They always come off without an impact wrench. Sometimes they can be difficult, but they always come off.

jakey-boy · Oct 25, 2011

With warranty haul it to a dealer & let them mess with it. Do not break the end of the crank off & have it not covered under warranty trying to get it yourself if you dont have to. Just me thoughts good luck. Usually the grease trick & a hammer on the end of the puller works.

skibreeze · Oct 25, 2011

Oregonsledder said:
Impact wrenches, air or electric are not recommended. I know many shops use them, but I never would. There is the possibility of knocking your crank out of balance, and there are magneto magents on the inside of the flywheel that could be knocked loose.
They always come off without an impact wrench. Sometimes they can be difficult, but they always come off.

I have heard that it is bad to use an impact on a clutch, but it seems that when the clutch actually lets loose, it's way more of a traumatic shock than an impact wrench can deliver. I still jump about every time it lets loose.

Milton900 · Oct 25, 2011

Zrider said:
What brand of electric impact do you have?

snap on 18v, have to admit i was impressed, usually wouldn't use an impact but had it laying around and was just curious as to how it would do, less than 2 seconds and the clutch popped off.

440dart · Oct 26, 2011

For the people that have had a hard time getting there clutch off, when you finally got it off did it look like it had spun? Just wondering if thats maybe why they are so hard to get off.

Oregonsledder · Oct 26, 2011

440dart said:
For the people that have had a hard time getting there clutch off, when you finally got it off did it look like it had spun? Just wondering if thats maybe why they are so hard to get off.

Most of the time, I think the reason they are so hard to get it off is because they are not removed each season for service. The clutch is aluminum and the crank is steel. Dissimilar metals gall over time. If after service, the inside of the clutch that rides the crank and the crank are cleaned with emory cloth and then re-assembled, most of the time they will come off pretty easy the next season.

die hard poo · Oct 26, 2011

Oregonsledder said:
Most of the time, I think the reason they are so hard to get it off is because they are not removed each season for service. The clutch is aluminum and the crank is steel. Dissimilar metals gall over time. If after service, the inside of the clutch that rides the crank and the crank are cleaned with emory cloth and then re-assembled, most of the time they will come off pretty easy the next season.

The Primary clutch has a hardened steel shaft inside of the aluminum clutch where it is mechanically pressed on.... Trust me I know lol I had to cut one off when the primary snapped off on me way back in the wilderness.

Oregonsledder · Oct 26, 2011

die hard poo said:
The Primary clutch has a hardened steel shaft inside of the aluminum clutch where it is mechanically pressed on.... Trust me I know lol I had to cut one off when the primary snapped off on me way back in the wilderness.

Yup you are correct. I clean a lot of P85's each year but haven't looked at the cone inside for a while. I just clean them and put them back on after the repair. The emory cloth on both surfaces is still important regardless.

peabody.daniel · Oct 26, 2011

Oregonsledder said:
Most of the time, I think the reason they are so hard to get it off is because they are not removed each season for service. The clutch is aluminum and the crank is steel. Dissimilar metals gall over time. If after service, the inside of the clutch that rides the crank and the crank are cleaned with emory cloth and then re-assembled, most of the time they will come off pretty easy the next season.

On my old cat, I would never go past 500 miles without pulling the clutch cleaning it and taking a scotch bright pad to the crank and clutch and torgueing it to spec. It never spun on the crank, but sometimes it still would be a pain to get off. I think it diffenetly helps to clean the crank, but it can still be a pain.

poledge800 · Nov 4, 2011

took it to the dealer they got it off somehow went and picked it up got home popped it off again changed weights in it went to put it back on torqued it to 75 ft pounds and then the engine wouldnt turn over took the bolt out and the clutch just fell off we looked to make sure he clutch wasnt cracked and it wasnt so we had another pro there with the clutch off and we measured the length of the tapered shaft outside the motor and mine was 1.452 on the calipur and he other pro was 1.546 and we could see where the clutch had previously rubbed on the seal cover it some how had pushed the pto end inside the motor, so it went back to the dealer today has anyone heard of this happening to any other sleds

1Mike900 · Nov 4, 2011

Does the engine pull over with it off? Either the whole crank is shoved over in the block, or the seal end plate is not tightened down at the end of the block? Is the end of the taper dia.'s the same size? Otherwise doesn't sound very good! Maybe they used a sledge hammer on the end of the puller? Mike

turbolover · Nov 4, 2011

Did it turn over when you brought it home?

Or did the dealer beat the HECK out of the puller to get the clutch off and push the crank back into the motor?

If they did your looking at a rebuild or a complete new motor.

poledge800 · Nov 6, 2011

will they cover it under warranty though i still have untill june before its up. hopefully ill get some time tommoro to see if they happened to have pulled it in yet, my biggest worry is if they will cover it because the dealer didnt know if polaris would cover the clutch if they would of had to cut it off.

Vertical Asshauler · Nov 6, 2011

If you ever have trouble removing the primary clutch. Remove the belt, load up the clutch puller with a good amount of force in the clutch and heat the inner clutch sheave with a propane torch. In most cases the clutch will pop off as soon has the sheave warms up a little.

You do not want to heat it anymore the 250 deg or just hot enough to slightly sizzle water on your finger tip. keep re tightening the puller in steps before getting to this temperature and it will eventually pop off.

Another very important thing to remember is always to re-torque the clutch after running it up. It will take a set on the crank, loosening the bolt. The clutch WILL spin on the crank making it a pain in the butt to get off everytime.

Kraven · Nov 6, 2011

Vertical Asshauler said:
If you ever have trouble removing the primary clutch. Remove the belt, load up the clutch puller with a good amount of force in the clutch and heat the inner clutch sheave with a propane torch. In most cases the clutch will pop off as soon has the sheave warms up a little.

You do not want to heat it anymore the 250 deg or just hot enough to slightly sizzle water on your finger tip. keep re tightening the puller in steps before getting to this temperature and it will eventually pop off.

Another very important thing to remember is always to re-torque the clutch after running it up. It will take a set on the crank, loosening the bolt. The clutch WILL spin on the crank making it a pain in the butt to get off everytime.

x2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

In addition, I place a WET shop rag behind the clutch to protect the crank seal from getting too hot

primary stuck on

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Enduring the heat till Braap Season

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