The Ski is awesome and only shortfall is on the grooved icy trail up to the riding area.Has anyone shortened the center bar a tad to relive some of the feedback on the icy stuff, It wood hardly effect the deep powder performance since the ski shape funnels the snow properly in the deep?
Yeti Ski alteration to center runner
- Thread starter byeatts
- Start date
Worth a shot. I just ordered a TS ski because we have a lot of days with hard pack conditions here. The Yeti is too sketchy in those conditions. Let us know if your idea helps.
M
The Yeti ski definitely likes to go straight on trail. I may be wrong but I thought I remembered something about Yeti themselves making changes to the keel. I still like the Yeti ski overall better than my TS ski. I need to raise my forks a bit in the triples before I make any changes to the keel. In the deep the Yeti ski rules.
M5
M5
The 16 Yeti ski has a much taller center keel than the 17 Yeti ski, so taking down the profile has been done on new model. Its almost exactly the profile I made when altering.
T
Ive been thinking of modding mine as well.
Any pics of the 17 yeti ski vs the 16?
Also Byeatts do you have a pic of your center keel after mod?
Any pics of the 17 yeti ski vs the 16?
Also Byeatts do you have a pic of your center keel after mod?
It makes a difference , can't believe that it's not common knowledge . Did this last year when I made my own bracket to mount this ski .
Measure the center bar and you will notice the front of the bar has more material / deeper that the rest of the bar . Just grind it down so the depth is the same for starters .
The bar is farther forward than the competition and is the reason why it acts the way it does but there is no current ski that can carve as had as it does either .
It will take some of the aggressive feed back out that the shoulders take .
The way I see it is that Yeti made a ski that can be dialed in besides waiting for someone to do it for you .
Measure the center bar and you will notice the front of the bar has more material / deeper that the rest of the bar . Just grind it down so the depth is the same for starters .
The bar is farther forward than the competition and is the reason why it acts the way it does but there is no current ski that can carve as had as it does either .
It will take some of the aggressive feed back out that the shoulders take .
The way I see it is that Yeti made a ski that can be dialed in besides waiting for someone to do it for you .
E
So i want to be clear you are grinding the steel wear bar not any plastic? No change to the 2017 mold? My ski is stable as a freight train on the road but we don't have any ice yet. The problem I'm having is in fluffy pow on top of a wet heavier base it won't go straight. It tries to turn on its own and when i try to turn it oversteers then washes out.
we took about 1/3 off the center runner, Worked very well on the trail with much less feedback in the bars, we did two bikes and both loved the ride better, no change in handling in the powder and can roll much faster off the off trail in crud with a crust.
E
Did you take 1/3 of the plastic runner keel or just off the wear bar?
center bar only
I spent a little time with the grinder last night after reading this thread. I own a 16 yeti, and love the ski, however I have noticed that it was a touch more aggressive on the hardpack than I need. I took about 3/16" off of the front of Center scag, which has moved the contact point back about 2". What a nice improvement! I literally can now go down the trail in 5th gear with one hand on the bars. The Yeti continues to impress me. I'm running the old maxtrak and it still works so well. Can't wait to see what 2018 brings!
E
Does this look like the old wear bar or the new one? I don't want to grind it if it is the new one.
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Grind it down, the 16 is the old bar
P
Anybody have a side photo of there ski after grinding it down? Or a photo of the 17 ski?
E
I ground the front of the skag down quite a bit. I only have 7/16 on the back so I didn't grind it at all. It will wear down on its own. It got the ski in jan 17 but I'm not sure if it was a new style skag or old. The mod didn't make much difference but my ski was always really good on the road. One hand stable.
The ski still doesn't work in less than perfect powder. Dense pow and anything with a crust is awful. It just turns on its own. Sometimes in crust it will turn up a side hill and with all my strength I can't straighten the ski out. It feels like the front side scoops are just to aggressive. The ts ski would rarely do the same thing but much less strength needed to correct it.
The yeti is better in perfect pow but i ride from October thru July so I will probably trade out my yeti for a ts ski.
The ski still doesn't work in less than perfect powder. Dense pow and anything with a crust is awful. It just turns on its own. Sometimes in crust it will turn up a side hill and with all my strength I can't straighten the ski out. It feels like the front side scoops are just to aggressive. The ts ski would rarely do the same thing but much less strength needed to correct it.
The yeti is better in perfect pow but i ride from October thru July so I will probably trade out my yeti for a ts ski.
E
I don't want to cut any plastic for an experiment but has anyone tried trimming the side scoops on the front of the ski?
Wait a week and see what hits the market.
P
i think you guys all must have too much ski pressure. that is likely the real problem. i would shorten the strut rod way down before changing the runner.
strut and preload changes help along with triple clamp/fork adjustments, But the magic in the Yeti ski is molded into the plastic, Works far better with shorter runners, Far less bar feedback and no change at all in the deep .I have also taken the side runners down 1/3 and ski simply works better on the trail up. easier to navigate in the sled rutted narrow trail.
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