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Does anyne know hwat the best Preformance mod is? heard good thgings about getting a head but anyone know anything that might be better?
What is the best performance mod to be done on the Pro-RMK's
- Thread starter Coleniuk
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- performance polaris pro rmk
SLP has a stage 4 kit out now claiming 20hp.
D
Getting head is always good.:becky: Like stated above it depends on budget.
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My list will include:
Silber turbo
Better Boards
Z broz a arms
Muff pot and 2 Cool hood vent that pops off for access to pot.
Skid plate
Silber turbo
Better Boards
Z broz a arms
Muff pot and 2 Cool hood vent that pops off for access to pot.
Skid plate
D
Brad, I ordered 2 heads and 2 hps cans from you about a week and a half ago. Received 1 of each a couple days ago. When do you think the other ones will ship. I picked up the new sleds today and installed one of the Hps cans to compare to stock and man does it sound good. Hopefully the other one is not far behind.
Muff pot. Hands down the best mod.
For improving the places you can get in and out of, I'd say riding lessons like dan Adams next level riding clinic. The sled is good enough stock to take you more places than most if not all of us need to be.
That being said there's a fun factor too, best bang for your buck IMO is a turbo.
Rode it fairly stock last year (mild ergonomic, suspension, clutching improvements) and have a power addiction head and silbers new turbo on the way. Just seemed like a couple grand for 20 hp or 4000 for as much power as I can handle/afford fuel for.
For improving the places you can get in and out of, I'd say riding lessons like dan Adams next level riding clinic. The sled is good enough stock to take you more places than most if not all of us need to be.
That being said there's a fun factor too, best bang for your buck IMO is a turbo.
Rode it fairly stock last year (mild ergonomic, suspension, clutching improvements) and have a power addiction head and silbers new turbo on the way. Just seemed like a couple grand for 20 hp or 4000 for as much power as I can handle/afford fuel for.
C
Thanks for the replies, budget is a factor, would like to stay under about 500 bucks, as far of riding style ide say boondocking no lake racing or nothing where i need top speed, what im looking for is to squeeze jus a little more power out of it, get some throttle response and more low end grunt.
:smow:
@1200PSI
With your power addiction head could i run the 13.1:1 comp ratio head around where live at about 1800 feet? what fuel requirements would be nessicary? and would you happen to know the stock compression ratio?
Also kinda off topic here but, What EXACTLY does the ethanol resistor do? Retard Timing? Add fuel?
:smow:
@1200PSI
With your power addiction head could i run the 13.1:1 comp ratio head around where live at about 1800 feet? what fuel requirements would be nessicary? and would you happen to know the stock compression ratio?
Also kinda off topic here but, What EXACTLY does the ethanol resistor do? Retard Timing? Add fuel?
Stock is 11.8 - 12.0:1. That was Brad's estimate.
Ethanol resister adds 5% more fuel. Don't know where in the map, but probably everywhere off idle. That's it from what we've been told. Zero timing impact.
P
you are correct. 5% fuel throughout, no timing.
from a pure power stand point,
i added an slp single last year and was surprisingly impressed with the results. had to add two grams of weight and was still holding better rpm. actually much more noticeable than when i added the single to the dragon. but just the single will cost you much closer to a grand than 500. got mine used (although essentially brand new) from a friend for 800 and was quite happy with the price.
now if you only have 500,
then i would probably seriously consider a set of airframes (if you can find them) before anything else. i was that impressed with them and i've had SE and BB in the past. i won't own another sled without them, or something extremely similar. although brad is saying there are some real nice gains with his head and the can, but i haven't added his head (yet) so i can say personally. when i talked to him, brad said that if i wanted to run the 13.1:1 head i would need to add about 30% av gas. more if i wanted to run the 13.6:1 head. i run from 0-5000 feet so my guess is he'll probably recommend they same for you. of course it may also depend on how high you ride on a regular basis. good luck
pv
from a pure power stand point,
i added an slp single last year and was surprisingly impressed with the results. had to add two grams of weight and was still holding better rpm. actually much more noticeable than when i added the single to the dragon. but just the single will cost you much closer to a grand than 500. got mine used (although essentially brand new) from a friend for 800 and was quite happy with the price.
now if you only have 500,
then i would probably seriously consider a set of airframes (if you can find them) before anything else. i was that impressed with them and i've had SE and BB in the past. i won't own another sled without them, or something extremely similar. although brad is saying there are some real nice gains with his head and the can, but i haven't added his head (yet) so i can say personally. when i talked to him, brad said that if i wanted to run the 13.1:1 head i would need to add about 30% av gas. more if i wanted to run the 13.6:1 head. i run from 0-5000 feet so my guess is he'll probably recommend they same for you. of course it may also depend on how high you ride on a regular basis. good luck
pv
for $500.00 gear it down, clutch it and some better boards unless your putting the power to the track It wont matter how much your engine makes.
To SAVE Belts: footwell plates
saves Wheight,snow wont stick to plastic
keeps you from kicking snow, or a stick, or worse, into your spinning clutches
No burnt belts from getting wet.
protection of the clutches and belt
And they let hot air escape.
Why polaris would not protect such a vital area is beyond me.
But at $178 a belt (maybe i can):face-icon-small-blu
I just sent 6 pairs with the movie boys @ Denver snow show
They looked at me and said those are a no brainer.
go from this
To This
Pm Me if you like em
saves Wheight,snow wont stick to plastic
keeps you from kicking snow, or a stick, or worse, into your spinning clutches
No burnt belts from getting wet.
protection of the clutches and belt
And they let hot air escape.
Why polaris would not protect such a vital area is beyond me.
But at $178 a belt (maybe i can):face-icon-small-blu
I just sent 6 pairs with the movie boys @ Denver snow show
They looked at me and said those are a no brainer.
go from this
To This
Pm Me if you like em
C
YEah well i dont think i really wanna be mixxing gas, what about with brads 12.5:1? would it even be worth it? also could my buddy run a Boss Nos kit with the head using a 20 shot of nos?
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Actually there still is a big differance between the 12.5 head and the stock head. The stock head the combustion chamber just plain stinks!!! There is alot to be left on the table with a differant combustion shape, squish , squish band width and so forth . For nos the ideal head would be 12.5 anyways .
lane:Brad
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sorry, yeah i realized i wasn't clear enough when i re-read my post. yes, brad told me NO race gas is needed with the 12.5 head. that is what i'm going to go with and if i decide i feel like mixing some race i'll pick up some 13.6 domes.
pv
pv
A
162 or 174 3 inch track. Best bang for your buck
P
sorry, that is above my pay grade. i never ride that high so the 12.5 head is the one for me. call brad and talk to him directly. he will point you in the right direction. unfortunately, the 3" track will not fit without the extended chaincase which will decidedly kill your budget.
pv
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