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yes this has been a wear item over the last couple years we don't see very many of them. I have ripped them apart and seen the check valves totally side ways in there. I think they might come that way form the factory sometimes. but na guys never feel it like we do.
one way to combat this is to run your exhaust valves off the throttle body vaccume side. and plug the case stuff. fyi
I am having the same issue with mine but I am not getting any codes. I checked the check valve between the reeds by sucking and blowing and it seems good. I am just not getting enough vacuum to keep the rave valves closed when idling. It will even sputter and stall when idling sometimes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. How are you guys rigging them up off your throttle bodies to trouble shoot this?
Yes thats correct. I pulled the black cover off and pushed down when idling and it idled smoother. The next thing i will check will be reeds.
sounds misserable, mine are all rave related codes. still waiting on a check valve assembly, but in the mean time, still super fun sled, but it definately idles poorly and is really poor running when out of boost moving in and out of engagement.I too had an ongoing code. P1427. CEL starting popping on and off one day and then just stayed on. First trip to dealer and they said my stator was on its way out and the code was a "failure to recognize Thermo Couple Module" which is the egt in the tuned pipe. Replaced the Module, and the stator (without removing the engine... not fun) and still had the 1427 light. Another trip to the dealer and they said there must be a short between the Module and ECM. Pulled connections, Tested wires, grounds, etc and couldn't find anything wrong. Plugged it all back together and started it up, no more CEL. All I can guess is one of the connections must have been loose or had some crap in it. Noticeably better idle and response without it throwing that particular code. Electrical problems are never fun.
Perform the exhaust valve calibration using BUDS or CanDooPro using a vacuum/ pressure gauge if the valves are in question. Also use BUDS to calibrate TPS and throttle opening %. Once you know all these are correct, it narrows down the possibilities.
Maybe throw in new plugs, they can go bad and do often on turbos, especially if you run leaded fuel. It seemed like plugs lasted 2-300 miles on a buddies turbo etec last year. New plugs and all was well.
This is the culprit. On the tip nipple you should be able to blow through, not suck. The bottom you should be able to suck not blow. If anyone has any mysterious rave codes this is could be your problem.
This is the culprit. On the tip nipple you should be able to blow through, not suck. The bottom you should be able to suck not blow. If anyone has any mysterious rave codes this is could be your problem.