Ski lift.

[Ollie]

I do a LOT of my playing in the trees, or getting thru the trees to go play.
With the new 07/08 700 RMK's it seems they have a lot of transfer.
I put the strap out all the way as I did in my old Gen II sled and found that was a BAD idea.
So I put it back in the middle and that helped a lot, however I am still getting way to much transfer. When you try to crawl thru the trees it wants to lift the skis and send you into the tree instead of around it.

I did notice that with me, my gear, spare fuel etc, the back of the sled drops about 6.5". My understanding is it is supposed to be a max of 5". The spring tensioner is set to max.

Here is what I am planning on doing.

Changing the top gear out to a 19. Give a gentler engagment.
Thinking of a heavier torsion spring, but not sure how big to go. Currently running stock.

How low of an engagment can you go before belt burn becomes a problem?
currently run the polaris stock recommended setup for 8kft.

 

[sleddogger]

I'll be watching this thread......I don't like this much ski lift myself .Just waiting for some good snow to make changes. Limiter straps & spring adjustment. Think I got to use to the edge chassis. We'll get it worked out......More time. Don't want to buy an after market skid !

 

[Ollie]

I am thinking it can be done with spings and adjustments.
Just not sure which springs or what to adjust.

 

[Supplicate]

I am thinking it can be done with spings and adjustments.
Just not sure which springs or what to adjust.

Ollie, does your Dragon have the WE Airs?

I ran into a guy from back east with a Dragon 700 that was setup just about perfect for your kind of riding. He had the heaviest torsion springs he could get on it along with rebuilt WE Airs with higher pressure in em. Had very minimal ski lift and was rawkin the pow. It might have been a 163, but pretty sure it was a 155.

I'll be getting the heaviest torsion springs and the pressure boosted in my WE Airs.

Thinking about also doing the Fabcraft Shock Mod.

 

[PooSlinger]

Put in an EZ-Ryde skid. Mine only lifts the skis when I want it to.

I think you're on the right track with the heavier torsion springs. Shortening up the limiters to get a shallower approach angle will help too as the front arm won't act as a pivot point in the deep stuff as much.

Before touching clutching and gearing, I'd look into the suspension changes. That's really the heart of the problem.

 

[Bagger]

LIft

Ollie, I let my strap out as well. Also didn't like it. I have sense done the following.
1. Strap in center hole.
2. Front shock on the skid in the forward hole.

This has helped alot with transfer, and the sled still gets up and out of a "settle" in powder, maybe better.

I was thinking about a stronger spring, but have never bottomed out the spring, even with a couple drops that scared the crap out'a me, so I'm going to try to leave that alone.

My rear sag is only 4", but when the sled is just sitting, it sags about an inch to an inch and a half. When I pick up on the rear bumper, it sets right up, and takes a while to resag the inch. I'm thinking that's valving and am playing around with the adjustments on the shock.

I'm sure open for suggestions. I worked hard to get the front of my Edge to lift, and am now working hard to get the front of my "weight forward" Raw to stay down.

This, like lots of things, confuses me. But it's sure fun testing it out! Bagger

 

[mtnsledder]

Have 150 miles on a 08 700 RMK 155 with the following setup and it works very well. Slight ski lift under hard acceleration but almost no understeer on trail.

Limiter strap in bottom hole

Front track shock in foward hole

Rear torsion springs at stiffest setting

Increased preload on front shocks (middle of spring perch threads)

Skis stance set at widest setting


As a side note fuel mileage is great. Rode 40 miles from Greenwater to W/Js on Monday and used 2.8 gallons.

 

[Snowman 2001]

Ski lift is controlled by the limiter strap setting and somewhat by the rear torsion springs. If you have too much lift in the middle hole try the upper (shortest).

 

[AndrettiDog]

I think the transfer behavior on the Dragon is a result of the WE shocks. They do great absorbing the bumps and I feel they are great in the deep stuff. But they do change the weight transfer. Most people are used to the rebound of springs up front.

I'm having issues with the rear suspension. I have the spring set to stiff and I am bottoming out the rear suspension on small - medium whoops. I'm 200 lbs. Any suggestions there?

Ollie, I'm not meanging to hi-jack your thread, just contributing to suspension setup.

 

[Bagger]

Bottoming out

BugIto, have you adjusted the rebound/dampening of the rear shocks? I know I made substantial gains in managing the rear setup last year, and hope to finish it this year. I would make 1 adjustment, ride, make 1 more. That way I could track what helped and how much, or what s**ked and how much.
Geared up I weigh about 240.......

The most significant change in transfer that I have made to date was moving the front skid shock upper position.

Bagger

 

[built4dtuff]

I think that Tri City's Rising Rate Blocks would help on the bottoming. I only have 40 or so miles on my 163 but 10 miles of that was stupid and I mean stupid woops. I bottomed once! Lets just say that most of you guys could have your wife on the back of your sled before your hauling the weight I carry I have never stepped on a scale dressed with back pack but I am sure I am over 300lbs.... I am sure you can get your set up with the stock equipment to not bottom if your 200ish.

I also just had Tri City re-do my front shocks and remove my sway bar. The $100 for the shock upgrade is very reasonable IMHO.

 

[Ollie]

Well, learn something new every day.
I didn't even know there was an option for which hole to put the forward shock in.

I think I will try the heavier rear springs though. Gonna try the forward setting on the shock first.

The 19 top gear is as much for more torque as it is for lower belt temps. That (for me at least) is a pretty standard thing to do.

On a side note. Don't ya love it. Get a brand new spanky clean sled and drop a couple grand is "stuff" for it.

 

[AndrettiDog]

Heavier rear springs? Are those purchased through Polaris?

I thought the dealer (or someone with the tools) had to do the adjustment to the rear damping.

 

[Bagger]

Tools

Yes, the WE shocks do have to be done with the right equipment, I believe. I dont' have the WE's, I can adjust mine pretty easy.
Polaris has heavier springs, you can also get them from several AM comps. After getting my shocks right, I don't think I'll have to change springs. It seems pretty good.

If I would get rid of these last 20 extra pounds that would help too! Bagger.