Overreving with my 23 khaos boost 165.

[davesilb]

I am overreving with my 23 khaos boost 165. Has anyone tried the 14-80 weights in the boost as I have a set but have not tried them yet? If you have tried the 80's what were the results? I am not looking for the last oz of power but more of a easy on the engine and possible help with fuel mileage. The Dyno readings I have saw on the boost shows the HP to be within 5hp from 7850-8450. That 600 RPM difference is a lot of extra to as of a engine for a mere 5hp !

 

[zilla]

I am overreving with my 23 khaos boost 165. Has anyone tried the 14-80 weights in the boost as I have a set but have not tried them yet? If you have tried the 80's what were the results? I am not looking for the last oz of power but more of a easy on the engine and possible help with fuel mileage. The Dyno readings I have saw on the boost shows the HP to be within 5hp from 7850-8450. That 600 RPM difference is a lot of extra to as of a engine for a mere 5hp !

Almost doesn't sound right the 600 rpm difference. Instead of flinging more weight, change the spring.
Thats more easy on the motor. If was me on these new motors and clutches, and I rode more mid elevation places and spinning heavy weight and anticipated putting some miles on etc. then FER sure would get the clutch spun balanced.

 

[Jeffy Mac]

Maybe look at buying a non turbo sled?‍

 

[skibumm]

I am overreving with my 23 khaos boost 165. Has anyone tried the 14-80 weights in the boost as I have a set but have not tried them yet? If you have tried the 80's what were the results? I am not looking for the last oz of power but more of a easy on the engine and possible help with fuel mileage. The Dyno readings I have saw on the boost shows the HP to be within 5hp from 7850-8450. That 600 RPM difference is a lot of extra to as of a engine for a mere 5hp !

 

[davesilb]

Almost doesn't sound right the 600 rpm difference. Instead of flinging more weight, change the spring.
Thats more easy on the motor. If was me on these new motors and clutches, and I rode more mid elevation places and spinning heavy weight and anticipated putting some miles on etc. then FER sure would get the clutch spun balanced.

I am seeing the tach hit 8600 momentarily and holding around 8500. I have been riding since 1970 and I know when a engine is straining and I know I do not want it that high when it is pass its peak. I would change the spring if I felt it would be enough but again I know from experience that the spring will not get me down more then a couple of hundrend RPM's . You do know these sleds have 76 gram weights now so 4 grams is not that big of a jump. My concern was really how much it would affect the shifting and back shifting. I already have the 80 gram weights but not a spring that might help. There must be someone who has tried the 80 gram weights and can tell me what they found out !! If I change the weights I plan on balancing the weights to the ones I pull out to keep the clutch balanced to its orginal balance. That is one reason I want to find out from someone who has tried the 80's what to expect as this clutch and engine combination is smooth with no vibration and I do not want to upset the balance with new weights. Thanks for any information I can get.

 

[Jeffy Mac]

I am seeing the tach hit 8600 momentarily and holding around 8500. I have been riding since 1970 and I know when a engine is straining and I know I do not want it that high when it is pass its peak. I would change the spring if I felt it would be enough but again I know from experience that the spring will not get me down more then a couple of hundrend RPM's . You do know these sleds have 76 gram weights now so 4 grams is not that big of a jump. My concern was really how much it would affect the shifting and back shifting. I already have the 80 gram weights but not a spring that might help. There must be someone who has tried the 80 gram weights and can tell me what they found out !! If I change the weights I plan on balancing the weights to the ones I pull out to keep the clutch balanced to its orginal balance. That is one reason I want to find out from someone who has tried the 80's what to expect as this clutch and engine combination is smooth with no vibration and I do not want to upset the balance with new weights. Thanks for any information I can get.

What elevation are you riding

 

[madmax]

If you’re consistently hitting 8500 rpm, adding 4 grams will most likely be too much

 

[diamonddave]

8500 is the magic spot for a boost. Ignore what you think you know with worthless, non-objective dyno sheets.

 

[davesilb]

What elevation are you riding

4500-6500 feet

8500 is the magic spot for a boost. Ignore what you think you know with worthless, non-objective dyno sheets.

Yea 8500 RPM with a stock boost is the sweet spot for everyone who likes rebuilding their engine every 1500 miles !!! I know when a engine is being stressed and at 8500 RPM the boost is being stressed !! At 8100 a stock boost will produce more hp then at 8500 so why would any sane person turn it to 8500 ???

 

[Jeffy Mac]

4500-6500 feet

Yea 8500 RPM with a stock boost is the sweet spot for everyone who likes rebuilding their engine every 1500 miles !!! I know when a engine is being stressed and at 8500 RPM the boost is being stressed !! At 8100 a stock boost will produce more hp then at 8500 so why would any sane person turn it to 8500 ???

You might be right….in a shop at sea level maybe but at altitude I think not. Stock Axys 850 8300...stock 9R 8400…and a stock boost is 8450. It’s your sled you can do what u want. I’m sure all the Polaris engineers are retro’s retards along with all the top sled builders

 

[chevy_man]

I am seeing the tach hit 8600 momentarily and holding around 8500. I have been riding since 1970 and I know when a engine is straining and I know I do not want it that high when it is pass its peak. I would change the spring if I felt it would be enough but again I know from experience that the spring will not get me down more then a couple of hundrend RPM's . You do know these sleds have 76 gram weights now so 4 grams is not that big of a jump. My concern was really how much it would affect the shifting and back shifting. I already have the 80 gram weights but not a spring that might help. There must be someone who has tried the 80 gram weights and can tell me what they found out !! If I change the weights I plan on balancing the weights to the ones I pull out to keep the clutch balanced to its orginal balance. That is one reason I want to find out from someone who has tried the 80's what to expect as this clutch and engine combination is smooth with no vibration and I do not want to upset the balance with new weights. Thanks for any information I can get.

You've been riding for 53 years? No wonder you don't need the rpm.


Whatever you think you know, you don't. You don't know and can't feel an engine "stressing". It's not a liberal at a gun show, it'll be fine.


I've seen engine run hard and abused go 5x longer than the ones that were babied. Sometimes they just go. It's a fact of life that mechanical things need rebuilding.

Or just stick to the trails and you shouldn't have an issue going 10000 miles.

 

[diamonddave]

4500-6500 feet

Yea 8500 RPM with a stock boost is the sweet spot for everyone who likes rebuilding their engine every 1500 miles !!! I know when a engine is being stressed and at 8500 RPM the boost is being stressed !! At 8100 a stock boost will produce more hp then at 8500 so why would any sane person turn it to 8500 ???

What or where is your objective facts and data you have that supports your statement clutching at 8,500 will result in rebuilding an engine at 1,500 mile intervals?

Next question, have you tested a boost at your elevation clutched at 8,100 and 8,500 RPM? Next question, is the engine loaded more at lower RPM ranges clutched for 8,100 or 8,500 RPM with all other things equal?

 

[Chadly]

Yea 8500 RPM with a stock boost is the sweet spot for everyone who likes rebuilding their engine every 1500 miles !!! I know when a engine is being stressed and at 8500 RPM the boost is being stressed !! At 8100 a stock boost will produce more hp then at 8500 so why would any sane person turn it to 8500 ???

You sound like a poor person. Who in the hell owns a sled long enough to put 1,500 miles on it??? I'd rather have 50 fun hard miles that 1,000 wimpy miles any day.

 

[chevy_man]

You sound like a poor person. Who in the hell owns a sled long enough to put 1,500 miles on it??? I'd rather have 50 fun hard miles that 1,000 wimpy miles any day.

You wouldn't be a member of another forum where "go be poor somewhere else" is a slogan?

I agree with you. I'm poor, but I know I'm poor so I buy the 1500 mile sleds and pile the miles on. I avoid things like turbos because HP costs money.

Anyone who dropped $20k on a sled and is worried about $2-3k in engine work after having abusive fun for 1500 miles should have never bought a turbo sled in the first place.

 

[Chadly]

You wouldn't be a member of another forum where "go be poor somewhere else" is a slogan?

I agree with you. I'm poor, but I know I'm poor so I buy the 1500 mile sleds and pile the miles on. I avoid things like turbos because HP costs money.

Anyone who dropped $20k on a sled and is worried about $2-3k in engine work after having abusive fun for 1500 miles should have never bought a turbo sled in the first place.

No, I only play a douche bag on Snowest ? The only other forum I was on (Ferrari Chat), I got banned for calling the members broke liberals for financing their Ferraris ?

 

[chevy_man]

What or where is your objective facts and data you have that supports your statement clutching at 8,500 will result in rebuilding an engine at 1,500 mile intervals?

Next question, have you tested a boost at your elevation clutched at 8,100 and 8,500 RPM? Next question, is the engine loaded more at lower RPM ranges clutched for 8,100 or 8,500 RPM with all other things equal?

How dare you bring science into this!

He knows it's being stressed!



(Nevermind the fact that the higher the rpm the shorter the peak dwell time of load on the components are. This is why drag racers love rpm. The same boost levels that would toss rods out of the block at 3000 rpm is perfectly safe at 6000rpm. Also, the reason hp may stop climbing but it will still go faster is simply more power pulses per second. Every combustion event puts out power which is then carried by the flywheel into the next combustion. Faster it spins the more times power hits the clutch. Slow the Dyno run from a 30 second sweep to a 3 minute sweep and you'll get all different data.)

 

[davesilb]

You sound like a poor person. Who in the hell owns a sled long enough to put 1,500 miles on it??? I'd rather have 50 fun hard miles that 1,000 wimpy miles any day.

Not everyone is born with a silver spoon in their mouth. I like the feel of power just as much as the next person. I sure as hell would not hang out with someone as stuck up as you. You and your rich friends go ahead and enjoy your throwing that kind of money around for what you say is 50 miles of great fun. I enjoy my riding as much as you and I don't have to abuse my sled to have that fun. If Polaris felt comfortable with the boost turning 8500 RPM's they would have designed it to produce the maximum HP at that RPM and not the 8100-8200 they did

 

[Jeffy Mac]

Not everyone is born with a silver spoon in their mouth. I like the feel of power just as much as the next person. I sure as hell would not hang out with someone as stuck up as you. You and your rich friends go ahead and enjoy your throwing that kind of money around for what you say is 50 miles of great fun. I enjoy my riding as much as you and I don't have to abuse my sled to have that fun. If Polaris felt comfortable with the boost turning 8500 RPM's they would have designed it to produce the maximum HP at that RPM and not the 8100-8200 they did

Sooooooo can you put up the links to all this data that you have special access to

 

[Chadly]

Not everyone is born with a silver spoon in their mouth. I like the feel of power just as much as the next person. I sure as hell would not hang out with someone as stuck up as you. You and your rich friends go ahead and enjoy your throwing that kind of money around for what you say is 50 miles of great fun. I enjoy my riding as much as you and I don't have to abuse my sled to have that fun. If Polaris felt comfortable with the boost turning 8500 RPM's they would have designed it to produce the maximum HP at that RPM and not the 8100-8200 they did

Silver Spoon?? Are you trying to call me poor?? My spoon was platinum, encrusted with diamonds son! ? The guys on here that ride with me will tell you how stuck up I am.

 

[davesilb]

What or where is your objective facts and data you have that supports your statement clutching at 8,500 will result in rebuilding an engine at 1,500 mile intervals?

Next question, have you tested a boost at your elevation clutched at 8,100 and 8,500 RPM? Next question, is the engine loaded more at lower RPM ranges clutched for 8,100 or 8,500 RPM with all other things equal?

No I have not tested it at the 8100 RPM yet but have at the 8500 RPM I was tring to get a honest opion from someone who had tested with the 80 gram weights but all I am getting is snide remarks. I will be testing with the 80 gram weights and will let you know what I discover. For your information I am a retired Auto mechanic and have done all my own maintenance on my sleds for all my 53 years of riding. Because of my knowledge of engines I am sure it is the reason I have only had one engine warranty problem in those years. That is around 25 sleds that have not let me down. I average about 1500 miles of riding a year and yes probably a little over half those miles are trail miles.
As for your loaded question it is loaded more at the lower RPM but the load is not the problem. The problem is at the higher RPM everything in the motor is being stress more from the speed of the parts. The parts can handle the power much easier then the speed of the pistons going up and down. The 400 RPM difference you refer to means that the piston has to make 400 more trips up and down the cylinder each minute. That adds up to much more stress.