C
And I can’t confirm on your jackshaft but looks the same as mine, which is not updated. And highly unlikely the dealer did the update. The update kit replaces the mounts
Melting belts, blazing hot clutches.
- Thread starter Ijust
- Start date
I’m doing the update and maybe lowing gears, although I think it’s a 19-50 already. If not it can’t hurt to take a peak at the crank case. I have to find all the engine mounts, I think one is loose. It’s hard to find them all, and I don’t have a manual. I can’t do the scoop because I already did the holes we vent there. We just got 3 feet of cold smoke and my 800 is loving it. Trees are the place to be with the avy danger up and mostly likely to stay that way for the foreseeable future. Let it snow.
I had a diamond s hood on mine solved lots of heat issues.
U
Team Tied Secondary clutch solved my belt blowing issues on my 2014 M1100T running the EVO 215 tune. The stock clutching was terrible from a performance standpoint, and I blew a belt after about 500 miles. I switched the primary to magnetic adjustable weights and a 125-310 spring, and bought a torsional conversion kit for the secondary clutch. This made things WORSE. I blew 3 belts in 300 miles and the clutches were blazing hot always. I bought the alignment tool, and my alignment was perfect no issues. So I decided to get the team tied secondary set-up from Racing' Station, and it has worked flawlessly. The clutching is spot on, and I have 800 miles with no blown belts. The clutches run much cooler than they did before.
Z
Shaft and mount update kit has fixed a lot of sleds. There are lots of other little things you can do, as mentioned here, but the update kit is a must first step in my opinion.
Thanks fellas. Where should I find my team tied secondary? Talked to racing station around the holidays and he was slammed with work, so I’m not sure if he work on my sled until late in the winter. I can get the jackshaft/mount update at C.C.
Secondary I have now is a big fin manufactured in March of 14. The dealer had to have updated that before selling to me.
Secondary I have now is a big fin manufactured in March of 14. The dealer had to have updated that before selling to me.
U
A bit spendy, but it looks like BMP sells the Team Tied Secondary Clutch kits as well.
bikemanperformance.com
Arctic Cat Tied Stage 2 Clutch Kit 2012-15
Arctic Cat Tied Stage 2 Clutch Kit 2012-15
bikemanperformance.com
Does anybody know where all the motor mounts are? I can’t seem to find what is loose. When I pull up and down on the jackshaft the entire engine shimmies forward and up slightly. Looking for any place the motor connects to the frame. Sorry I am unable to figure this out still.
Can somebody tell me how to get this ring nut off (pic). Bought the 2015 jackshaft update kit and the guy on the phone at country cat told me I would NOT need special tools. The instructions say to use “the socket”. I’m not sure what “the socket is, but it sounds like a special tool to me. It also says to disengage the adaptor sleeve, I’m it sure what that means either. The directions that come with this kit are very vague. Thanks
B
Its been a while since I had to but I believe you have to loosen that retainer ring and then use a socket or a punch to depress on the inner sleeve. Else the jackshaft is locked on there. Also make sure on the other side the bearing retaining bolts are off.
So after some difficult hours in my garage, I installed the 15 kit, and have now put over 150 hard miles of wot, towed my broke down 800 20 miles, and pulled hard up steep stuff. These were the type of things I simply couldn’t do before because the belts would not hold up for even a little time. Basically everything I bought the sled for is now possible, for now. I would say eliminating the heat was key with the venting and titanium wrap on the exhaust. But the stiffer shaft is a must. Gary at Country cat helped me though the 15 kit take down and install. It wasn’t as easy as it looked like it would be (for me.)
Remember I mentioned the motor was shaking around when I lifted on the driven shaft? After 350 miles my motor mounts were toast. It wasn’t the tcl, it was the rubber mounts themselves.
If anybody knows anyone who has the parts that take the load off the heat exchanger Ta
bs and poly mounts, I’m looking. It’s Finally time for a reflash.
Though I am budget and have a has been sled I got a lot of good info on here, I want to say thanks to everybody who contributed their advice to help me get my turbo to a point I can use it like I intended. I really appreciate it. ??
Remember I mentioned the motor was shaking around when I lifted on the driven shaft? After 350 miles my motor mounts were toast. It wasn’t the tcl, it was the rubber mounts themselves.
If anybody knows anyone who has the parts that take the load off the heat exchanger Ta
bs and poly mounts, I’m looking. It’s Finally time for a reflash. Though I am budget and have a has been sled I got a lot of good info on here, I want to say thanks to everybody who contributed their advice to help me get my turbo to a point I can use it like I intended. I really appreciate it. ??
C
glad the update kit worked for you! looks like I have to do mine now, 150 miles total on the sled and a belt snapped and took out the belly pan. How did you end up getting that shaft out?
This is written like a true pedantic, but I hope it helps. You will have much more fun to ride than trying to sell this sled.
Follow the directions precisely that come with the new kit. If not country cat has them online in thier Manual. (I bought the kit from them)
To get the old shaft out work from the chain case side first. Get it all completely apart. Take off the reverse Gears, main gears and chain, and make sure to put the gears back the way you took them out. take off the snap rings on the jackshaft. Save the thrust washers in case you need them later. The new kit comes with some but every machine is different when re installing.
Make sure to unthread the strange threaded ring around the jackshaft. I did it with a punch and a hammer no problem with heat. Don’t Unthread it all the way, then tap on the ring toward the jackshaft (semi hard) to loosen the tapered sleeve behind the threaded ring. That tapered sleeve keeps the jackshaft from sliding out toward the clutch.
If you don’t free the tapered sleeve you will have a nasty time getting the jackshaft off. I didn’t do it, and heated it super hot and smacked the jackshaft out with a 20 pound sledge in frustration. This tore the chain case seal but luckily didn’t wreck anything else. That was after hours of not knowing why it wouldn’t budge and a few way to many high life’s.
When you tap the threaded ring hard enough you will noticed the tapered sleeve that sits around the jackshaft will break free. Now the jackshaft will slide out. To get out the chain case bearing , melt the green lock tite that sits between the bearing and the chain case. You can use the jackshaft to pound out the old chain case bearing once it’s heated easily.
On the clutch side, Remove the clutch guard and take the chassis mount that holds the fuse box off. Hopefully the bolts are threaded on right. Some of mine were backwards and one took me hours to get off. There was no way to reach it and I had to make a long tool to hold the but on the other end. Remove the gas tank completely. Take a picture of the battery assembly so you know how it goes back together. Don’t break the copper bolts on the battery housing when reinstalling later?.
Remove the knock sensor and unplug it so it doesn’t get messed up when sliding out the old tcl and jackshaft assembly.
Loosen the bolts all the way on the tcl. Mine were on so stubbornly I had to use a breaker bar, a pipe, and lots of heat. I loosened the engine mounts all the way on chain case side too so the engine could tip forward.
I hooked the engine up to a strap and pulled it forward and up to the ceiling rafters to get it to tip enough to “YANK” out the jackshaft and tcl in one piece. You don’t have to be careful with it because it’s getting replaced anyways. Make sure to remove the knock sensor or you won’t be able to slide out the tcl and jackshaft or install the new one.
Make sure when Installing the new jackshaft and tcl you keep the shaft relatively perpendicular to the tcl so the wobble bearing does not come uncased. You will see what I mean. When installing also, it is good to have two people so one can move the engine around as you are seating the jackshaft back in the chain case. (Easy now, it will fit in with a buddy, this shouldn’t take unnecessary force.). Make sure the chain case seal is not damaged. It’s the one in the engine side of the chain case where the jackshaft slips in. If it was damaged, they have some online (m1100t chain case seal). It’s reddish orange in color and will need to be greased after installation.
I bet your motor mounts are both shaky already. Make sure to keep an eye on those after installing the new kit and riding a bit. They are way to soft, but with the torque of the engine being welded to the heat exchanger I won’t dare go with stiffer motor mounts until I fabricate something to get the load off the exchanger.
this project is for pros. I’m not a pro, so it took me a good while and many steps didn’t make any sense for the first few attempts. You can pm me and I’ll face time with you if you run into a wall.
I suggest venting the hood every where and wrap the turbo and exhaust in header wrap. I can not tell you how much this helped cut down on under hood heat. hopefully you have a straight pipe. Makes it so much lighter and cooler under hood. It is also easy to work around and remove.
Yours might be blowing belts because of heat and misalignment combined in most cases I’ve read about. I really want a blow hole in mine, but I have to wait for summer to make some money.
mod rods xxx has an eBay account and they were selling proclimb Vent kits for 60 percent off. They fit nice, don’t be afraid to punch 100 holes in that thing.
good luck, this job might be easy for some, but like I said, it was a multiple day task for me.
Don’t be afraid to send pics over or ask. I would love to help if I can. Mine is still going on that belt, but I am not 100% confident in the job yet. It that same belt survives Monday, this kit will make a full believer out of me.
Follow the directions precisely that come with the new kit. If not country cat has them online in thier Manual. (I bought the kit from them)
To get the old shaft out work from the chain case side first. Get it all completely apart. Take off the reverse Gears, main gears and chain, and make sure to put the gears back the way you took them out. take off the snap rings on the jackshaft. Save the thrust washers in case you need them later. The new kit comes with some but every machine is different when re installing.
Make sure to unthread the strange threaded ring around the jackshaft. I did it with a punch and a hammer no problem with heat. Don’t Unthread it all the way, then tap on the ring toward the jackshaft (semi hard) to loosen the tapered sleeve behind the threaded ring. That tapered sleeve keeps the jackshaft from sliding out toward the clutch.
If you don’t free the tapered sleeve you will have a nasty time getting the jackshaft off. I didn’t do it, and heated it super hot and smacked the jackshaft out with a 20 pound sledge in frustration. This tore the chain case seal but luckily didn’t wreck anything else. That was after hours of not knowing why it wouldn’t budge and a few way to many high life’s.
When you tap the threaded ring hard enough you will noticed the tapered sleeve that sits around the jackshaft will break free. Now the jackshaft will slide out. To get out the chain case bearing , melt the green lock tite that sits between the bearing and the chain case. You can use the jackshaft to pound out the old chain case bearing once it’s heated easily.
On the clutch side, Remove the clutch guard and take the chassis mount that holds the fuse box off. Hopefully the bolts are threaded on right. Some of mine were backwards and one took me hours to get off. There was no way to reach it and I had to make a long tool to hold the but on the other end. Remove the gas tank completely. Take a picture of the battery assembly so you know how it goes back together. Don’t break the copper bolts on the battery housing when reinstalling later?.
Remove the knock sensor and unplug it so it doesn’t get messed up when sliding out the old tcl and jackshaft assembly.
Loosen the bolts all the way on the tcl. Mine were on so stubbornly I had to use a breaker bar, a pipe, and lots of heat. I loosened the engine mounts all the way on chain case side too so the engine could tip forward.
I hooked the engine up to a strap and pulled it forward and up to the ceiling rafters to get it to tip enough to “YANK” out the jackshaft and tcl in one piece. You don’t have to be careful with it because it’s getting replaced anyways. Make sure to remove the knock sensor or you won’t be able to slide out the tcl and jackshaft or install the new one.
Make sure when Installing the new jackshaft and tcl you keep the shaft relatively perpendicular to the tcl so the wobble bearing does not come uncased. You will see what I mean. When installing also, it is good to have two people so one can move the engine around as you are seating the jackshaft back in the chain case. (Easy now, it will fit in with a buddy, this shouldn’t take unnecessary force.). Make sure the chain case seal is not damaged. It’s the one in the engine side of the chain case where the jackshaft slips in. If it was damaged, they have some online (m1100t chain case seal). It’s reddish orange in color and will need to be greased after installation.
I bet your motor mounts are both shaky already. Make sure to keep an eye on those after installing the new kit and riding a bit. They are way to soft, but with the torque of the engine being welded to the heat exchanger I won’t dare go with stiffer motor mounts until I fabricate something to get the load off the exchanger.
this project is for pros. I’m not a pro, so it took me a good while and many steps didn’t make any sense for the first few attempts. You can pm me and I’ll face time with you if you run into a wall.
I suggest venting the hood every where and wrap the turbo and exhaust in header wrap. I can not tell you how much this helped cut down on under hood heat. hopefully you have a straight pipe. Makes it so much lighter and cooler under hood. It is also easy to work around and remove.
Yours might be blowing belts because of heat and misalignment combined in most cases I’ve read about. I really want a blow hole in mine, but I have to wait for summer to make some money.
mod rods xxx has an eBay account and they were selling proclimb Vent kits for 60 percent off. They fit nice, don’t be afraid to punch 100 holes in that thing.
good luck, this job might be easy for some, but like I said, it was a multiple day task for me.
Don’t be afraid to send pics over or ask. I would love to help if I can. Mine is still going on that belt, but I am not 100% confident in the job yet. It that same belt survives Monday, this kit will make a full believer out of me.
C
thanks for the full writeup! appreciate that, I ordered the kit today and should have it Wednesday. Hoping to have it installed by the weekend so will start pulling it apart tonight. Will report back as soon as I hit a roadblock, probably wont take long haha
M
Did it survive Monday?
I punished the sled a good deep day in big sky for another 50 miles of pow including many climbs full throttle with lots of heat build up. Still running the same beat Belt and it held on through the day with no issues. One thing I know if that I need a roll over valve now. Lots of oil coming out when sled is stuck upside down. Toned down the load on the front shocks to 65 with the 8 inch sly dogs and loved it all day. The kit seems to really be working well. Secondary Clutch gets super hot still. I might be slightly out of parallel, but this kit obviously is helping a ton. I highly recommend this kit based on my last three rides.
C
Glad to hear its still an improvement. I got a ROV from Fourstroke solutions, had them upgrade it to the new style magnetic tether. I sure put it to good use the last few rides! Easy plug and play install.
I also did the clutch guard update and cat side vent for clutch cooling. hoping the jackshaft comes in tomorrow so I can finish the install before the weekend.
I also did the clutch guard update and cat side vent for clutch cooling. hoping the jackshaft comes in tomorrow so I can finish the install before the weekend.
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C
got most of it installed last night. all your suggestions made sense once I got into it, thanks!
