Helping with clutch heat and blowing belts

[SWEETXPBEATCH]

belt alignment

hi guys, sorry about your troubles, i have an 06 rmk belt eatin mofo. many had no belt issues, i had lots. did everything humanly possible... clutching, weights, motor mounts, slp torque stop, push arm, venting, belt aligning, gearing, break in, soap n water, 3 different types of belts, nothing could get me to go 100+ km on a belt. dealership blamed polaris, polaris blamed dealership setup. finally i asked polaris to tell me how to set it up then went to dealership and worked with the mechanic to set it up like the factory said. cords showing out the side means belt misalignment. the torque on the motor shifts them out of alignment and it doesn't take much. set the motor slightly out of alignment very slightly so when the motor torques it lines up perfectly, then allowed the secondary to float 1/4 inch inward of alignment. problem solved. finally, 14 belts in 1200 km, now 4-500 km per belt with slp mods, and nos. (i am running the new super belt also but ran the normal one with this setup and had good results.) the vibration issues we'rent on all sleds on polaris either, this was a result of poor tapers on the crank, set up a dial indicator and see how far out the clutch moves when turning it. some polaris's would change 7 thousanths in a revolution, i removed mine and put it right back on 3 times and the third time i was down to 1.5 thousanths in a revolution. vibration gone. your xp's are going to be great sleds, you'll get er figured out...good luck. at least u dont have a tank to start with like i did. cost me a pile to get under 500lbs.

Do you think it could be that silly secondary bolt. We adjusted a friends this weekend & honestly, I think he overtightened it & now can get it tight enough without loosening the sheaves. I don't know if that makes any sense to you or not but basically the black ring just spins now when he is attempting to tighten the inner bolt?

 

[doniam]

07 800r adrenaline chain

is the chain a 15 wide ar 13 wide and does all the splines the same from year to year on the top spocket (mostly looking for aftermarket 19t top for 07 800r )

 

[Skidooer]

1st clean clutches often on first ride (scotch brite pad).
2nd gear from 21 to 19.
In the primary put in 433 ramps or ramps that the rt 1000 used.
Make sure your primary spring is 160/290 or 160/320 or close to.
Load your pin weight to 16 grams for 154" track or 15 grams for 163" track.
With hollow pin it is 12.5 grams.
Leave the secondary stock!
Gearing down and throwing more weight will allow the clutches to pinch the belt and eliminate slipping preventing heat. It will also will increase track speed allowing you to kick a** without blowing belts.
This set up is for 5000ft and higher. Don't be afraid to ride in clicker 1 or 2.
My 2 cents and have fun.

I just used this set up today but with 14 grams. Definetly needs the 16 grams as it over tached in #1. Low and mid are amazing, top falls a little short but well worth the trade for great low mid.

Still hot and black ring half way up primary after long pull up hill. Slipping but most likely due to under wieght at 14 grams.

Going to 16 grams.

This set up flate rips like you can't believe!!!

 

[ghost rider]

clutching

I just used this set up today but with 14 grams. Definetly needs the 16 grams as it over tached in #1. Low and mid are amazing, top falls a little short but well worth the trade for great low mid.

Still hot and black ring half way up primary after long pull up hill. Slipping but most likely due to under wieght at 14 grams.

Going to 16 grams.

This set up flate rips like you can't believe!!!

skidooer, i have broken the sled in with a couple hundred miles and am now throwing approx 17.8g(cant fit more) and clicker 2 at 10,500 ft taching 8300 rpm. This sled rippsss!

 

[Skidooer]

skidooer, i have broken the sled in with a couple hundred miles and am now throwing approx 17.8g(cant fit more) and clicker 2 at 10,500 ft taching 8300 rpm. This sled rippsss!

What about heat and slipping? Any black rings on primary after long pulls? Do you think the 14 grams is allowing my belt to slip?

Agree with you this set up RIPPS! Just want to fine tune it now.

 

[800HMX]

Winter Brew
"Has anyone just put in the '07 ramps and a "proven" clutch settup (at least there are alot of proven primary settups)?? And what were the results??
Seems to me this would be the first logical move after verifying the basics.
As for the secondary it needs a progressive helix for the hills.
Someone needs to run the 160/320, last years ramps and throw a bunch of weight at it with a wide spread progressive with a shallow finish and gear down to 2.3-2.4 in the chaincase.
Everytime I read about people complaining about belts I wonder why I don't see anyone suggesting and trying different settups? Yet spend more $$ on belts than a dozen different settups."

You are absolutely right. The main problem with the BRP set up is the helix. A progressive helix is required. The stock 42 has never and will never work - just not steep enough initially for decent acceleration and way way to steep to grip the belt and hold rpms when climbing.

I have tried a progressive QRS helix with a huge improved over stock. Way less belt heat and no problems with the belt or holding rpm. There is no stock XP that is even close, but there is much room for improvement. The progressive helix's offered by BRP are an improvement over stock but still not even close to the DJ clutch kit I had in my 06.

Gearing down is essential on all but the 163's.

The primary setup is the easy part of the system (as long as the primary is built properly to begin with). The 413 ramps will work. I still like the 415's from the 07 and 06 summits, just may need to build the helix to work with the 413's. The primary spring and weight is much better this year than in the past, however a 160/350 is probably better than the 160/320 (for the 800R and it's powerband).

There is no way to address the secondary problems without changing the helix.

NOTHING will solve the clutch and belt problems without changing the helix! Building the proper helix is an art in itself, especially when you try to use as many of the existing parts as possible. The secondary is the torque sensing part of this system and in my opinion the most important part of the system. There are many combinations of pin weight, primary spring and ramp profiles to get the desired rpm but without a proper helix design you will always have poor performance, increased clutch heat and belt problems.

I look back at all the skidoo clutch kits out there and one clutch tuner and his products consistently stands way above all. I am waiting like everyone else for Dynamo Joe to develop a clutch kit. I hope his kit will be out soon in the new year. Until then, keep buying belts.

 

[ghost rider]

Clutching

Skidooer, throwing only 14g with this set up will allow the belt to slip and belt marks on primary and also to much clutch heat. Doo's need 16g or more to reduce clutch heat.( Were in Idaho do you ride?)

Winterbrew- a 07 proven clutch set up!! hahaha. 07's stock clutching was a joke. I'm not hear to say my set up is the only way to get to were we want to be, but it works. As for helix, a 42/42 isn't bad. It is the belt adjustment in the secondary that is a joke. I like the top of the belt just a little above flush on the secondary. The racing belt also helps because it is just a little wider allowing for better grip in secondary.

My 07 is running the same clutch set up recommended, but with 19.4g. No Xp, m10, or poo 800 will come close. When you get the clutching dialed there is no sled that will keep up (naturally aspirated).
________________________________________
Doo 07 800 151-light weighted, hps can, clutched, vented
Xp 800 154- hps can, clutched, vented
Polaris 600 high mark rec turbo

 

[RGM]

I have had weights added and regeared with the 19T on my 154 which has solved the overreving (at clicker 3 7000') and most of the heat issues and it is shifting out to the last 3/4" on the steep and deep. My problem is I will hit the bottom of the hill and be getting 8200 but as the hill get steeper it is not backshifting and by the time I get to the top it is 7700. Still seems to have good grunt but man if I could get another 500 rpm at the top I would be real happy. So is the poor back shifting from the ramps or helix, I am running stock ramps and helix? Running at around 7000 ft.

 

[winter brew]

I have had weights added and regeared with the 19T on my 154 which has solved the overreving (at clicker 3 7000') and most of the heat issues and it is shifting out to the last 3/4" on the steep and deep. My problem is I will hit the bottom of the hill and be getting 8200 but as the hill get steeper it is not backshifting and by the time I get to the top it is 7700. Still seems to have good grunt but man if I could get another 500 rpm at the top I would be real happy. So is the poor back shifting from the ramps or helix, I am running stock ramps and helix? Running at around 7000 ft.

44/33 helix.

 

[RGM]

Winterbrew did you use the BRP helix
417126975 REV-XP 44/33o $132.99 or someone elses. With the QRS do you need a special tool to change it?

 

[Skidooer]

The 433 ramps let it pull VERY hard to about 50-60mph. Then holds RPMs nicely. Takes a little longer to get from 60 to 80mph.

 

[pricepower]

Hey ghostrider is that the only idea you have is your 16-17g of wieight? Other things will also work well. things like getting rid of those garbage secondary and put on a team. And on the primary spring it is also a good idea to keep the two nunbers as close together as possible such as 200-320 or 200-350 not a 160. too low.Also the 417 is a very good ramp. It is usally good for a couple of rpm.