1. Blow out the oil injection inlets into the carburetor, just to make sure no oil solidified over the summer. Same with the two injection inlets into the crankcase at the PTO and MAG ends.
2. Check your drive axle bearing on the PTO side, beneath the secondary, to see whether it is grinding yet. Otherwise, grease it. This bearing goes out the fastest.
3. Check your tracks rear idler bearings for no longer spinning freely. These bearings also go out in 2000 to 3000 miles.
4. For the 800 with extra HP exhaust, check your front PTO side engine mounts for being torn through.
5. Recheck your oil injector adjustment, so the two notches align with no throttle.
6. Check each shock to see whether it has enough gas in it. 150 psi from an air compressor gets them working again.
7. You might want to remove the exhaust manifold and look at your piston walls, to see what kind of wear you have on them. Then you can decide whether you want to increase the oil injection rate a touch or not.
8. Retighten your track since you had let much of the tension out of it over the summer to help save the bearings.
9. Probably be a good time to put in new plugs.
10. Grease up the rear suspension, as well as the two front ski spindles xerk fittings on each side. Spray lubricant on the front tie rod ends, and steering rod ends below the engine.
11. Clean the VES valves and look for torn/worn diaphragm, and look for wear on the tips of the valves that indicate piston/ring contact that would lead to a failure.
12. Check the torque stop adjustment.
13. Check the reeds for broken pedals.
14. Check inside the pull rope housing for black rubber powder from a water pump belt wearing due to a water pump approaching seizure.
15. Check the cylinder compression to see whether you have some ring/cylinder issues that you would like to fix for more power.
16. Look inside of the gas tank and check to see whether the lead intake hose has become brittle by wiggling it with a hooked wire. If it is white, then it is probably close to breaking. Then you can't climb steep hills on a low gas tank in order to get back to the snow park.
17. Check the swing weights in your primary clutch to see whether they are impacting the spider frame, and close to exploding the clutch.
18. Take several vertical tugs on the primary clutch to look for movement and to see whether your PTO crank bearings need to be replaced.
19. It's not like owning a car.
20. Take the chaincase cover off and check the center bolt to the lower large gear. They come loose. Remove bolt, clean out hole with brake cleaner, clean bolt threads, blow everything dry, install new thread lock and reinstall with about 20 ft-lbs torque. Add a cup of new oil of 5W to 30W range. Since it is not being burned with the fuel, do not buy expensive Polaris chaincase oil.
21. Get some spray lubricant on all steering and front suspension swivel rod ends. If you removed the engine, retighten the center steering rod end at the base of the steering post.
22. Add coolant as needed. Add oil as needed.
2. Check your drive axle bearing on the PTO side, beneath the secondary, to see whether it is grinding yet. Otherwise, grease it. This bearing goes out the fastest.
3. Check your tracks rear idler bearings for no longer spinning freely. These bearings also go out in 2000 to 3000 miles.
4. For the 800 with extra HP exhaust, check your front PTO side engine mounts for being torn through.
5. Recheck your oil injector adjustment, so the two notches align with no throttle.
6. Check each shock to see whether it has enough gas in it. 150 psi from an air compressor gets them working again.
7. You might want to remove the exhaust manifold and look at your piston walls, to see what kind of wear you have on them. Then you can decide whether you want to increase the oil injection rate a touch or not.
8. Retighten your track since you had let much of the tension out of it over the summer to help save the bearings.
9. Probably be a good time to put in new plugs.
10. Grease up the rear suspension, as well as the two front ski spindles xerk fittings on each side. Spray lubricant on the front tie rod ends, and steering rod ends below the engine.
11. Clean the VES valves and look for torn/worn diaphragm, and look for wear on the tips of the valves that indicate piston/ring contact that would lead to a failure.
12. Check the torque stop adjustment.
13. Check the reeds for broken pedals.
14. Check inside the pull rope housing for black rubber powder from a water pump belt wearing due to a water pump approaching seizure.
15. Check the cylinder compression to see whether you have some ring/cylinder issues that you would like to fix for more power.
16. Look inside of the gas tank and check to see whether the lead intake hose has become brittle by wiggling it with a hooked wire. If it is white, then it is probably close to breaking. Then you can't climb steep hills on a low gas tank in order to get back to the snow park.
17. Check the swing weights in your primary clutch to see whether they are impacting the spider frame, and close to exploding the clutch.
18. Take several vertical tugs on the primary clutch to look for movement and to see whether your PTO crank bearings need to be replaced.
19. It's not like owning a car.
20. Take the chaincase cover off and check the center bolt to the lower large gear. They come loose. Remove bolt, clean out hole with brake cleaner, clean bolt threads, blow everything dry, install new thread lock and reinstall with about 20 ft-lbs torque. Add a cup of new oil of 5W to 30W range. Since it is not being burned with the fuel, do not buy expensive Polaris chaincase oil.
21. Get some spray lubricant on all steering and front suspension swivel rod ends. If you removed the engine, retighten the center steering rod end at the base of the steering post.
22. Add coolant as needed. Add oil as needed.
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