Yep, I ran it in a NA sled I owned, back when very few options were available
I refused to put in my G4 turbo because I knew it would not work well. Waste of money to put a NA flyweight profile in a turbo sled.
Yes I have both the 967a and the SHR turbo flyweight, they are the exact same profile that came in the NA sled. I am just going to say it, snake oil, the 967a is the same mass with the setscrew hole fully loaded with setscrews and the turbo flyweight is solid, but its all about the tip weight according to the Big guy.
Dont know about this weight or clutch kit personally, but...
If the weight has more curve, more revvy it will be. If you are driving a car with manual transimission, its the same as you keep low gear on and high rpm and shifting late.
More "flat" the weight is, its gonna shift more and gives more pull. Again its kinda if you are again driving a car with manual transmission and shifting gears up early aka shortshifting.
Sounds like these weights are adjustable. So you can add mass to the pivot but also on center and tip of the weight.
If you are using more tip weight, and lighter pivot and center weight, sled is gonna be more revvy and throttle response is faster. Usually 0,5g-1g more on the tip than on center works fine if you are going this route.
When you want more pull right from the start, you should run about equal center and tip weight.
Then you also have clikers. Positions 1 & 2 give more revvy feeling with more overshooting at the beginning. Position 3 is the best overall combining revvy feeling with decent pull. Positions 4 & 5 engage harder and you get that feel of pull right from the start with no overshoot. Just like riding a 4-stroke.
So to keep it short about adjustable weights:
If you want the sled to be revvy, light on throttle, use clikers 1-2, have weight with more curve and use 0,5-1g more tip weight. This is what I call deep snow calibration.
If you want more pull & track speed, use clikers 3-4, have weight with flatter curve and use equal weight on center and tip. This is what I call crossover calibration.
And ofc you can find a combination of these that suits your personal riding style.
About the claim that 967 weight profile doesnt work on turbo... its not that simple in my opinion.
First need to remember that turbo sleds have lower compression rate and the turbo. Response will always be slower than on n.a. engine. To compensate that, its not abnormal to use weights with more curve to compensate this small lack of response from low rpm.
This manufacturer has chosen this profile for the reasons we dont surely know. But in the end its the results that do the talking.
These people who sell clutching should always listen to customers and not push their own agenda. If somebody wants revvy, responsive sled, give it to them. If somebody wants low engagment, heavy loading and pulling clutching do that instead.
I have always tried to listen what a rider actually wants and deliver those qualities. We can debate endlessly debate whats good and whats not, but if somebody is paying for your expertise and knows what he/she wants you should deliver that.
In my experience, biggest problem is that those "newbies" dont know what they want. They might say they want deep snow clutching, but then I ask more specific and finds out they want to pop wheelies all the time and barely ever go to dense trees. But in their mind they ride deep snow because they have long track machine.
