C3 post forward block.
- Thread starter 1rarel78
- Start date
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Mine was just the block an two bolts. Block bolts in through stock post bushing spot then bushing bolts onto block with all stock parts. Curious to see what the extra price is too......hhhmm.
what sled do you have?
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12 snopro 8
Kevin, from C3, emailed me back lastnight. Big props to him, I'm sure he's super busy this time of year and has a lot of inquiries to get to.....thank you Kevin!
The 3" kit comes with a new cross bar that clears the post. That is the extra $65. Addresses the issue Snopro_69 noted above. There is a 1/2 inch clearance issue with that cross bar and the 3" block. The 2" block clears the stock cross bar, so there is not the extra cost with it.
I had a follow-up question to him regarding the intake. If you want to retain the stock intake it will take some modification, not sure what this is yet. If you have the Reaper or BDX hood/kits, not an issue. I have a couple things in mind but would like to hear Kevin's input. Will post more on that later.....................
The 3" kit comes with a new cross bar that clears the post. That is the extra $65. Addresses the issue Snopro_69 noted above. There is a 1/2 inch clearance issue with that cross bar and the 3" block. The 2" block clears the stock cross bar, so there is not the extra cost with it.
I had a follow-up question to him regarding the intake. If you want to retain the stock intake it will take some modification, not sure what this is yet. If you have the Reaper or BDX hood/kits, not an issue. I have a couple things in mind but would like to hear Kevin's input. Will post more on that later.....................
Yeah, like their pics,you can see the part, but what I'd like to see, and what makes sense from a sales perspective, as the comparison is what matters, is a shot from the side, so we can see the angle at which the post exits, and the location better. it's hard to compare a nice side shot like what Chewy posted, without a similar side shot, so we can say "OK, it exits right there, and a riser that's 4,6,8,10" would end up about "there" if run inline with the post.
Another thing to keep in mind, just like I did with my M's for years... you can do a minor "post forward" simply using spacers. If you want to get real geeky with it, call Bparks & give him the dimensions you want & he'll make you spacers out of delrin or whatever you want so you don't have to use metal. I can't even count the amount of custom stuff he has made me just from giving him a dimension, and his prices are SUPER reasonable for one off stuff like that, pretty cool.
My M posts had been sitting about 1/2" forward since 2009, the same can be done here for almost nothing. I'm not sure how much difference it will make, but lots of times it's the seemingly small changes that make all the difference in the world. I'd be curious to see how much you could move it simply spacing it forward.
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Are you talking about a minor post forward with the vertical post or horizontal post Kaleb?
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Ahhhhhhh the crossmember thing makes sense to me!! Wish I woulda known this. But some stacked washers an longer bolts an a tiny trim is still cheaper hahaha. I'll try for pics tommorow for good angles.
Personally I feel the vertical post is all together WAY too far back, I don't think moving it would accomplish enough to make a difference, and the short secondary post in that setup would then be canted forward, which would feel real goofy to me I think. On the M the post is about 2x as long, so even though it IS canting it forward, it wasn't noticeable angle wise. (the M wasn't actually 100% vertical either though in the first place)
On the standard post though, the angle change would be a good thing, so I'd go as far as I physically could.
For the stock air intake/plenum C3 can provide a template for the cut needed. Then use foil tape or fab something up to cover/seal back up the channel created for the post. I think foil tape would work well. Another option could be bending some sheet alluminum, making a cap/channel that could be glued onto the outside of the intake.
Kevin was quick to note the postforward kits work perfect with their cabonfiber hood w/intake, no modifications needed. :face-icon-small-hap
99.99% certain I'm going to give this a try. There is still that .01% of me hung up on a true vertical post but I'm buying into what BCIL, Snopro, and the others have posted.......................
Kevin was quick to note the postforward kits work perfect with their cabonfiber hood w/intake, no modifications needed. :face-icon-small-hap
99.99% certain I'm going to give this a try. There is still that .01% of me hung up on a true vertical post but I'm buying into what BCIL, Snopro, and the others have posted.......................
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Getter done buddy!!! Ya I just formed that channel with heat gun. Got it real hot. Pushed post into it till it sorta ripped plastic an cleared. Seal Er up with a couple layers of gorilla tape an a layer of tin tape an race ready.
So I have been talking to Woody at Mt Baker Motosports about bars and post forward kits. He is using the Rox riser rotated forward and likes it. I asked him about using the C3 post forward kit. He thought this would end up giving a more horizontal XP style swing to the bars(which I don't want). I have a broken rib right now from landing on the Cat mountain strap sideways and I don't like the rib breaker look of the Rox set up. So if I go with a Pro Taper style bar and the C3 post forward 3" kit will I end up with vertical steering that is safer for my ribsnutsguts and gets ride of the linkage in the steering and the big steel cap that my steering post runs through now? Btw I'm starting with the stock set up on a 14 Pro lite.
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Yes get rid of it all. Had same rox setup. 3" post forward makes the post damn near vertical anyways. 3.5" riser inline with post an barely any "doo" swing. Unreal easier to ride an improves handling 100x. Do it!!
Matte - easy enough to go back to vert but I doubt you will want to. I currently have the rox, like it but want more forward. The rox made a big enough difference I think more will even be better. Plus gets rid of the nut/gut smasher. I never move the adjustable post, so don't see it as a lose.
You've felt the difference between the XP swing & the XM right? the cat on it's own is closer to the XM, add the post forward & it's even more vertical. To compare that swing to an XP is a ways off.
Coming from a guy who has hated doo's F'd up steering for many years, the main trick is to get it more forward... and NOT do what all the cat guys are doing now, offsetting the bars from the post. If it's inline & more forward, it's a VERY minor adjustment. The XM is about the minimum I can handle, but the post forward over the motor steering IMO is even better than vertical as it gets in your way less.
Confused...... So the c3 will keep the steering vertical and remove a bunch of linkage and extra parts? Will it work with adjustable post or need hcr post? Thx
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Just the standard post that has a T on top. Then riser an bar.
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It's not the adj OR HCR post, it's a different post in a totally different location.
If you look at 9071000's post, in the first pic you can see the original "vertical" location. Go up from there to the start of the C3 block, and you're at the original "standard" location, then it moves that forward again, making it possible to have a taller riser without shoving you back on the sled, and making the post just shy of vertical.
It's not the block that eliminates all the junk, it's the switch to the standard post.
FYI, as you move forward, you need less of a riser, so if you plan to do this, keep that in mind. Most guys seem to feel they need 1-1.5" less riser for a 2" move forward.
I really just wish there was a pic from the side, to see just how vertical that post is after the post forward.
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