Belt Blower - Opinions needed ASAP!!!

[mrquick68]

My stock primary titanium spring broke at approx. 500 miles on my M-8. The spring broke at thje first coil and was stuck in the primary cover. Coil binding was evident near where it broke. Broken portion was stuck in the cover. After removal and upon investigation I found the cover spring pocket has a smaller ID than the spring ID and a new spring had to be FORCED over the cover ID portion of the cover spring pocket. Switched to a Polaris primary spring and it fit easily onto the cover pocket. NOW both primary and secondary get equally warm. My primary used to boil snow after moderate riding and this excess heat has now disappeared and no more blown belts with 465 mikles on the new belt. Hopes this helps others like it did me.

curious what spring you were running from Polaris. Please provide lbs measurements.

 

[mrquick68]

my buddy and me have same slead, we put the new ''UltimaxXS" belt, part # XS817, HE has over a 1000 miles on it and we ride hard in the steep and deep all day long, i blew the belt att 500 miles and they have a warranty for one year they replaced it no fuss just read warranty, belt works good too its a harder belt ,its 100 dollers but worth it the first time,

i am not opposed to trying this belt again (as i have tried it before), but too me it acts more like 060 as it stickers as it get hotters. I found it inconsistent... and i also found it gives NO warning and then BLOWS up hard. Not good on cranks...

Regardless, it might be worth trying.

 

[catunder]

Polaris or SLP

Running the SLP 120-340 black/pink which is the same as the Polaris 120/340 black/green. Some prefer the 120/320 at lower elevations. Hope this helps.

 

[m1000snowman]

try it

i run the xs belt it performs way beter then artic belts,they dont just blow up the start to lose inside ruber and its not that hard on crank,if u want to keep buying 80 $ belts that have no warranty have att it, put the two side by side and see for your self,if u blow it up you did not break it in proper,i ride alote now and have no wories so u can keep trying the artic belts while ill be playing and you will be fixing pice of shi***! just a thought, Att least your crank has warranty i bet u put more $ in belts then a crank,I no i did on my M7 and M1000 u dont have to try it but it save $, and more time in the Mts is that what we want or do u like to throw $ away have u ever got a 1000 miles on a blelt!

 

[Ausm7499]

Are you saying that the aftermarket belt your running has a warranty?? I am not opposed to trying an aftermarket belt but I have read several different threads about belts and it seems that the majority are saying that Arctic Cat belts work better. I could be wrong as I have never ran one and have no first hand knowledge.

 

[mrquick68]

i run the xs belt it performs way beter then artic belts,they dont just blow up the start to lose inside ruber and its not that hard on crank,if u want to keep buying 80 $ belts that have no warranty have att it, put the two side by side and see for your self,if u blow it up you did not break it in proper,i ride alote now and have no wories so u can keep trying the artic belts while ill be playing and you will be fixing pice of shi***! just a thought, Att least your crank has warranty i bet u put more $ in belts then a crank,I no i did on my M7 and M1000 u dont have to try it but it save $, and more time in the Mts is that what we want or do u like to throw $ away have u ever got a 1000 miles on a blelt!

easy does it bud... i appreciate your opinion but you don't have to get pissy about it.

 

[mrquick68]

Are you saying that the aftermarket belt your running has a warranty?? I am not opposed to trying an aftermarket belt but I have read several different threads about belts and it seems that the majority are saying that Arctic Cat belts work better. I could be wrong as I have never ran one and have no first hand knowledge.

yes, the XS belt has a warranty. they seem to stand behind it too.

 

[m1000snowman]

spent lots

I have put more $ in to belts than one person should, if it works for somone then cool, least it has a warranty, Hope it works for somone with this problem, break it in proper and its good to go

 

[bcsnowdog]

ultimax xs belts by carlisle do have a excellent warranty, but when i tried them on my m7 found they would drop rpms a fair bit? wonder if they changed belt compound? used them on polaris sleds for years and they worked great.

 

[mrquick68]

new update. first weekend i've road DEEP and heavy Washington POW and didn't blow a belt. Dealer rechecked everything and found crank was perfect, clutches were perfect, alignment perfect, CC perfect, etc. unbolted motor and bolted it back up. ALL i changed was to LIGHTER primary weights. I'm running 80gs now and average elevation is around 5000+/-. Temps are down primary and secondary. I also ran a little less spring twist in the secondary and didn't loose any backshift speed. I then added some more spring in the primary (shims actually) and found things got even better. going to a stiffer primary this weekend and keeping the same 80g's (down from 83s). Funny thing was i actually LOST rpm with these lighter weights. i bet i can loose even more weight believe it or not.

Any way - sled is rippin' HARD now too. Raced a bunch of sleds across a lake and beat 'em all (though not by much).

consistantly pulling 50mph in deep snow too.

 

[MTm7]

new update. first weekend i've road DEEP and heavy Washington POW and didn't blow a belt. Dealer rechecked everything and found crank was perfect, clutches were perfect, alignment perfect, CC perfect, etc. unbolted motor and bolted it back up. ALL i changed was to LIGHTER primary weights. I'm running 80gs now and average elevation is around 5000+/-. Temps are down primary and secondary. I also ran a little less spring twist in the secondary and didn't loose any backshift speed. I then added some more spring in the primary (shims actually) and found things got even better. going to a stiffer primary this weekend and keeping the same 80g's (down from 83s). Funny thing was i actually LOST rpm with these lighter weights. i bet i can loose even more weight believe it or not.

Any way - sled is rippin' HARD now too. Raced a bunch of sleds across a lake and beat 'em all (though not by much).

consistantly pulling 50mph in deep snow too.

what primary spring are you going to try?

 

[mrquick68]

what primary spring are you going to try?

gonna try the orange/white. Never liked it on my M7 but the stiffer i make the primary on this M1000 the more i like it... strange as it were. I also have a bunch of shims i can put under the spring to have it act even stiffer if need be. we'll see what i think. i may need to drop even more weight off the primary though. another test ride will tell. back shift is even better with the lighter weights.

 

[M Turbo]

Rkt and cutlers kits are not the answer!!!! Go back to oem with team spring. I recked to driven with both of those conversion kits. stock m8 and thats it.You can't run those kits with big power trust me. I own turbo cats and never had belt or clutch until i put those kits on !!!!!!!!!!!! Cost me two driven clutches. Cutlers silver spring is still not tight enough. not enough belt pinch. I melted my driven sheaves!!

 

[KMMAC]

Quickie,, sounds like you're gettin a handle on it. Just wondering, do you suppose that with the heavier weights, do you think maybe it was shifting faster than the driven and causing a bind in that clutch? By bind I guess I mean more like a slow shift out of the driven and maybe it was putting too much load on the belt?

 

[mrquick68]

Quickie,, sounds like you're gettin a handle on it. Just wondering, do you suppose that with the heavier weights, do you think maybe it was shifting faster than the driven and causing a bind in that clutch? By bind I guess I mean more like a slow shift out of the driven and maybe it was putting too much load on the belt?

my theory is that my primary weights were too heavy and spring too soft so that what was happening was that when the throttle was applied quickly the momentum of the heavy weights shifting out that fast tried upshifting the clutches too quickly. the stiff secondary that these sleds need to have was slowing the shift down at those upper speeds but big weights kept trying to shift the secondary out. the primary kept trying to upshift but the secondary was saying "your going too fast". but the weights kept on trying to shift and thus the slip started occuring. if i did a slow roll on to the power THEN the belt wouldn't slip and my rpms were way down (like 7400). I dropped down from 83s to 80s and in a slow roll on to full power my rpms are still too low for my setup - in fact even with 3 grams less, they still were too low. Thus, i'm going to try a heavier primary spring first in hopes of getting some more rpms out of the setup. though i might end up dropping even more weight out of the primary in hopes of getting to the upper rpms i need.

seems crazy, but i'm going the write direction so far.

 

[JayO]

Quick: glad to hear that things are going better. My thoughts are along the same lines as to what you discovered. : way to much weight in the primary, and for that matter, probably to much spring in the secondary as well. It seems to me that if the primary is squeezing the stuffing out of the belt and the secondary is squeezing the stuffing out of the belt....there is no where for the belt to go as those forces fight it out. HOT, HOT, HOT...BOOM!
From personal experience I feel that a lot of the set-ups on these higher power sleds are over weighted in the primary and over sprung in the secondary.
As proof I offer my TM8: it came with 72g Daltons and a secondary spring so light that I can open it to change the belt with one hand (twisting it against the helix). Never has there been lots of heat or problem one with the belt. Jay-0

 

[KMMAC]

What Weights come stock in the 1000?

 

[Skinner]

My 08 came with 80G. 6000 to 9000 feet.

 

[mrquick68]

mine came with 83g weights. I'm currently running 80gs and I still think its too heavy. i bet I end up with something around 79 or 78gs and a bit stiffer primary spring. it just too much weight smashing the belt, thus always pulling threads on the outside moveable sheeve on the primary. the momentum of the weights when shifting out fast is too much and over powers the belts - thus slip, then heat, then threads...

 

[KMMAC]

How stiff is your driven spring? What helix are you running? Thinking maybe instead of less weight maybe more angle in the helix with less spring. Because if you get too light with your weights you might be back to slipping the clutch, which would start the too much heat in the belt thing. Sounds like the driven isn't shifting fast enough yet.. This whole stiff clutch spring thing has never been the answer IMO cause like I said earlier in this post once I geared down, I was able to run the stock mountain springs and had no more belt issues, Was able to change the belt without any tools. Of course this was with the pre M series clutch which as far as I'm concerned a better clutch and way easier to tune and, change belts on...