Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
You can't change the fuel filter without pulling the assembly out of the tank right? Correct me if I'm wrong but it isn't easily accessible.Got a buddy that has had several fuel filter and fuel pump issues on several G4's.. It could be bad fuel but he does buy from a big reputable company. Change your filter for preventative measure.
Filter is down by the recoil handle. Tight but doable. Same filter as the 800 e-tech's. PeterYou can't change the fuel filter without pulling the assembly out of the tank right? Correct me if I'm wrong but it isn't easily accessible.
A short block appears to include the the piston and cylinders but I could be wrong. $3,789. Did dealer say not to bother with a top end because the whole engine needs replacement?Depending on how hard you ride, I wouldn't worry about the engine until about 4000 miles. I have more than that on my '17. Dealer said don't bother with a top end, so I'm putting a new short block in mine before next season. Seems like the G4 clutches have been pretty "maintenance free" other than the secondary rollers. Definitely replace those soon. You can also lube your primary rollers, which delivers a noticeable performance improvement, if you've never done it since new. Your shocks are also probably ready for replacement or rebuild at this point. Other than that, check your hyfax/sliders and track tension and give'r hell.
Clearly you must NOT be using Ski Doo's XPS oil. Nothing else could account for such carnage.sounds like a lot of good luck in here. my 2018 freeride has 3800 miles, I've replaced 1 full motor (PTO crank bearing went at 1700 miles, thankfully BEST warranty covered it for $50!), I had the rave valve motor go at 3k miles, the y-pipe split at around 3000 miles, the clamshell on the expansion pipe also went at roughly the same time (that sucker rattled into a bunch of pieces one day!). Primary clutch dampner was smoked and splitting at 2k miles, secondary rollers went at like 2500 miles. Track has about 10 ripped or missing lugs. On my 3rd belt which I feel is reasonable. Had a bunch of numerus dumb crap break like plastics and the latches. I wrench on it a fair bit, and can honestly say that other crap would have gone wrong if I hadn't checked it often (secondary bearing retainer walked out, rear skid bolts always come loose, pull my clutchs every 350 miles to clean them and the are always gunked up, etc.)
Somewhat to be expected if you ask me... above 2k miles on a proper mtn sled is up there.
Did they find out why the 2017s blew up?My 2017 850 blew at 1297 miles.
A friend of mine blew his 2017 850 at 1700 ish miles. Dealer replaced engine (with a 2019 version), and now he’s over 6100 miles total on the sled.
Also you can get a factory “reman” short block from BRP for $2200. If you don’t mind the reman part, saves you quite a bit $$$.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did they find out why the 2017s blew up?
crk is the same , baseplate is differentI’m not positive but I believe the difference in the newer engine is the crank. Somebody else can correct me if needed.
The 17s had head o-ring issues. It was resolved for 2018 and newer. Lots of the 17 engines went down.Did they find out why the 2017s blew up?