there is only one problem with that, if you stop the secondary from full shift, the primary will still push the belt up to the top and then the belt becomes to short and will snap it.
watch the video's on the clutchweights thread, the driven shaft bows to much period, when the driven shaft bows, it will put your alignment out period. I don't need to sell anyone a shaft, I had them made to fix the sleds tohelp you guys out, I don't make enough money on them to even count it, I have the connection's and I use it to help out, there are many things that need attention. the saying goes, If you want to play, you have to pay, there are many parts out there to make these sleds flawless the wat they should of been. some are pretty cheap and do more than you think.
when a driven shaft flexes like they do, you need your driveline right because of the hp these sleds put out, sorry but the stock shaft does not cut it with the new designed TCL system. sorry to say, the drivline on trail sleds with out any power adder's is done at pretty much 3k miles, shaft gears and chain done, time for new.
The secondary is not letting go of the belt as fast as the primary wants to pull it, I told you guys this last year, there is a reason that dalton has sold so many secondary springs. Its a tad lighter on start and open pressure. good luck if anyone is running a clutch spacer to keep it from reaching full shift.
just like stated here about cutting you 2012 secondary post, if you cut off to much, the inner step will stop your secondary
from seating where it needs to on your driven shaft, that step shown in the picture needs to be at least 0.650 after you cut the end of the secondary post, watch out how much you cut off your secondary post.
Good luck guys