09' 800 dragon clutch set-up

[AKSNOWRIDER]

if it up shifts faster, would that be kinda like how you can "lug" a four stroke dirt bike up a hill as compared to high rev on a two stroke??? This seems like to me that it would not accelerate very quickly because it would be in a higher gear and have less torque to pull it hard. Do I make sense or am I just not thinking right???? I am really wanting to understand clutching better so any other input would be great!!!!!

the stock helix doesnt up shift hard enough, which allows the sled to trench more on take off, if you ride in alot of setup type conditions then I would go a little smaller on the initial(around 60/42/.36).if all you ride is deep champayne powder you can run up as big as 64/42/.36...Ideally would be a custom helix with both grinds so you can swap for conditions...

 

[allblowdup]

So how about the diffrence between the 10 and 11 series wieghts. I know the 11 series shift quicker on the bottom but do they shift slower at higher speeds? I am wondering if using a 10-68 instead of a 11-68 would give you a more aggresive shift above 50mph.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

So how about the diffrence between the 10 and 11 series wieghts. I know the 11 series shift quicker on the bottom but do they shift slower at higher speeds? I am wondering if using a 10-68 instead of a 11-68 would give you a more aggresive shift above 50mph.

no the 11 series out shifts the 10 series..remember you need 2 gram less weight with the 11 series'..the easiest way to get a good setup is order slp's mtx weights and primary spring.For sea level to 2000 ft it would be 71 gram mtx's, and a blue/pink spring..also order extra steel and aluminum rivits and the installer/remover tool. then you can adjust right in the trail till you get it just right..the mtx weights work very good...if you go to slp's site and look at the single pipe it has all clutchiing recommendations in the instructions(which you would need to lighten up the rivits a little since you dont run the pipe)but it would work good for you I think..

 

[allblowdup]

Thanks. I don't have any mtx wieghts right now so this weekend I will try the 11-68's and the 10-68's.

 

[Ratt_Rocket]

clutching and gears

If I am going to ride my 800 shift here in MN 85% of the time at 1300-2000 feet, with that single pipe can from slp, and side vents, am i going to have as much heat in the clutches(enough that i would need to gear down)? I am thinking that for MN i am going to run a 1-1/4 track and stud it, would a SLP clutch set up work well if i go out west and only change my track? or will i need to drop weight in the primary? with the stock gearing?

 

[thefullmonte]

Just wondering if one of these 62/42-.46 or 64/42-.46 helix for higher elevations works well, how come mine came stock with 56/42/.36 and works great, but i had to change to 60 gr weight at 8000 to 10000 feet? Am i really missing that much performance by not running the 62/42-.46 or 64/42-.46 helix or we talking about difrent clutch? really want to know!!!!

Personal riding style and preference play a big part here. I figured I needed the "magic 62/42-.46" helix as well. I didn't. It does do what everyone is saying. It reduces trenching. I felt I lost back shift though. You can get that back with a 160/280 team spring for the secondary.
I am also running heelclicker primary weights. As with the MTX weights, you can really adjust engagement and minimize track spin that way. So, a couple different means to the same end.

 

[allblowdup]

Ran the 11-68's at 2200 ft and -1 deg. was pulling 8200 in the deep snow all day. 4 grams heavier than my bud's 08 and he was pulling 8100.

 

[Ratt_Rocket]

weights

so with the 11-68 you were at 8200 rpms at 2200 ft. why does SLP recommend the 71g MTX with 2, 1g rivets in them, that would be 73g total, right? seems a bit on the heavy side doesent it? I am sure you get great belt squeeze on the low end, but will the sled shift out with that much weight in it? also SLP says to keep the stock helix and spring in the secondary, what changes would i need to make if i ran a 62xxx helix. or a 64xxx helix? dont know alot about tuning the team clutches. would i need to stay at the 71mtx weight or drop to the 11-68 weight?

 

[thefullmonte]

so with the 11-68 you were at 8200 rpms at 2200 ft. why does SLP recommend the 71g MTX with 2, 1g rivets in them, that would be 73g total, right? seems a bit on the heavy side doesent it? I am sure you get great belt squeeze on the low end, but will the sled shift out with that much weight in it? also SLP says to keep the stock helix and spring in the secondary, what changes would i need to make if i ran a 62xxx helix. or a 64xxx helix? dont know alot about tuning the team clutches. would i need to stay at the 71mtx weight or drop to the 11-68 weight?

MTX is a heavy heel weight. The weight is distributed differently so they are able to use a lot more. Plus they allow fine tuning by adding additional weight for your specific need. Similar to an older Yamaha weight, you can control up shift and peak rpm with weight placement. I'm guessing the stock helix recommendation is due to the reduction of belt slippage from the MTX weights. They engage at lower rpm and more smoothly. So they can control trenching from the primary.
I have my heelclickers weighing 88.3g for out west. These even offer more adjust ability. I can actually adjust engagement rpm. They also have a place they call the overdrive location. Incredible up shift and back shift can be achieved here. The primary spring I use with these is a 170-360 I don't have them 100% dialed as my testing was done at sea level. They weighed 91g then and just about pulled your arms off. I'm certainly in the ballpark though. And FYI, I'm going back to almost the stock helix. I will be using the second ramp on my 62/42-.46 which is a 58/42-.36. Almost the same as stock. I will continue to use the 160-280 secondary spring though.
I'm not Jedi clutching master, but I'm learning more everyday. Hope some of this helps.

 

[Ratt_Rocket]

slip in the secondary?

So would the 71 MTX weights, and a 62/42-.46 be a good set up for riding at low level with studs, and up high with more lug?

also with your spring and weight amount how does your sled engauge, I would guess around 3900 but is it smooth? I was wondering about going with green pink spring (160/340) to get a bit more engaugement rpms, because slp 140/340 seems kinda low in the start

Like i said i think before, i am not really a wiz at the secondary side of the house.... i have a pretty stout guess on the primary side of things... LOL

 

[thefullmonte]

I don't know exact rpm, but it is very smooth.
As far as the helix goes. I guess I didn't feel the 62/42-.46 was quite right for my riding style. Although most people really like the way it acts. Probably a good all around choice for what you are describing.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/instsheets/09-878.pdf Here is what SLP is recommending with their single pipe. Just scroll down.
I personally think the MTX weights would be enough to control the harsh engagement. And reduce trenching. We each like different setups though. I don't think I would go all the way to a 160/340. You may try a 150 starting rate first. The 160 may start engaging somewhat harsh again.
If you want to just use the MTX weights, I'm sure you will be changing rivets for each location. Slp is saying the 71's for sea level and 68's for everything else. You may consider using the 10 series weights for sea level and the MTX in the mountains.
Anyone tried this so Ratt_Rocket doesn't have to experiment so much? Sorry I'm not more help on this.

 

[Ratt_Rocket]

clutching

Thanks Monte!

I was reading father back on the post that the 11-68's work well at sea level, so I think that i am going to try those with the SLP single, I am looking for a strong hole shot, here, so i would think that a 62-42-.46 with the 11-68's should and SLP 160/340 primary spring should give me about a 34-3600 engagement, with about 8300 on top, should pull my arms off with the way the RMK suspension is set up for transfer, and 140 studs on 1.25 rip saw. also a timber sled intake to keep snow out of the air box. any one else have any ideas on this set up? cant wait to try it out now.! i like to tune, but i am ready for things to just work, so i dont have to spend more money!

THanks again monte!

 

[Ratt_Rocket]

any one else had any other luck? thanks in advance

 

[PAT2]

Local race coming up 500 foot drag. Anybody have any clutch and gear set up ideas for that. Thinking about running my 09 D8 in it.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Local race coming up 500 foot drag. Anybody have any clutch and gear set up ideas for that. Thinking about running my 09 D8 in it.

I would think a bigger initial angle on the helix(something along the lines of a 60/42/36 or so with more initial spring rate up front on the primary and weight to the right rpms......keep the frt of the sled no more then 6-8 inches off the ground on launch(stiffen rear spring/shock)..that would be where I would start....

 

[fraufarm]

top

 

[Lano]

Headed out next Tues.

Guys,
I have decided to go with the mfg. suggested clutching. The tough decision was what weights to go with. We will be riding the flattops in CO and from my info. from last year we spend most of the time riding between 10,000' and 11,000'. I have decided to run 10-58g weights. If anyone has better advice, I am willing to listen. I spoke with Chris at Carls and they are currently out of their custom helix's. He was going to have me run 60g belly busters with their helix. For now I think running stock will give me a benchmark and save me 200.00.
Lano

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Guys,
I have decided to go with the mfg. suggested clutching. The tough decision was what weights to go with. We will be riding the flattops in CO and from my info. from last year we spend most of the time riding between 10,000' and 11,000'. I have decided to run 10-58g weights. If anyone has better advice, I am willing to listen. I spoke with Chris at Carls and they are currently out of their custom helix's. He was going to have me run 60g belly busters with their helix. For now I think running stock will give me a benchmark and save me 200.00.
Lano

if your gonna buy weights from polaris get 11 series weights(heel heavy will pull harder) the 11 series need 2 grams lighter then you run for 10 series...

 

[Lano]

? for AKSNOWRIDER

So are you saying run 11-60's or 11-56's
Lano

 

[Ron]

Guys,
I have decided to go with the mfg. suggested clutching. The tough decision was what weights to go with. We will be riding the flattops in CO and from my info. from last year we spend most of the time riding between 10,000' and 11,000'. I have decided to run 10-58g weights. If anyone has better advice, I am willing to listen. I spoke with Chris at Carls and they are currently out of their custom helix's. He was going to have me run 60g belly busters with their helix. For now I think running stock will give me a benchmark and save me 200.00.
Lano

Lano,

The 10-58's will get the RPM's up but don't have enough mass to shift properly. Sled will make noise but won't perform very well especially with the stock driven setup. An agressive helix isn't the answer either, only part of the answer. You lose a lot of power at high altitude so clutching has to be close. I'll look at my clutch weights I may have something for you to try. I'll drop you a PM if I find something.