B
team industries set it up. it is a tied secondary conversion kit for the 1100 turbo kit part number is 520903. Comes with floating plug, helix and spring ready to bolt on.
Belt Blowing Solution
- Thread starter Evolution Powersports
- Start date
H
It sounds like a problem with your sled and a few others are having because I have a 12' 1100t and have not blown 1 belt. Last year I put on about 600 miles with a can and mds weights with no issues. This year I am running a Evo BC 275 kit with mds weights h5 primary spring 36/44 helix and stock secondary spring and have put another 200+ miles on with the upgrades on the same belt my sled came with.....I think the problems are heat, snow coming through the side panels which is causing belt slippage which causes heat and also I think some people think that they can race their mountain sleds down the trails at 100 mph and are just blowing the belts apart. Just my outlook. I do feel bad for the guys that are blowing belts and hope the can solve the issue.
B
I have never blown a belt on the trail. always has been at the top of the hill or at the bottom when rolling onto the throttle. I believe and have proven that these sleds will make a day on one belt if you are their to bull**** with friends telling ppl how much hp they have. i have tried white knuckle's clutching 38/46 helix, cat orange and stock secondary springs, cutler weights, cutler gold primary spring and it was worse. My uncle claimed no problems on his 13 so i told him to do 4 consecutive climbs (back to back no cool down time) and on the 4th climb he destroyed the belt. some may think that 4 pulls is over kill but all the other sleds we ride with boosted and natural aspirated can do this all day.. i have had ppl come up to me and ask about the problem on the hill so if your not having an issue i would recommend the next time your in deep snow try riding the piss outta the sled on a steep long hill and let me know if you make it back to the truck on the same belt.. i dont normally post on forums and am not trying to start **** ( i own one) but i have tried many different setups with no luck.. my brother also has a 12 so three in the family and all have had this issue while getting road hard..
BFisher have u tried making sure your clutch bay is sealed off? The huge duct straight to the clutch removed and covered? Siliconed / sealed completely so that u can rule out snow on the belt?
B
Yes i have checked. there is no snow getting to belt and clutch from what i see (clutch bay is dry). i have done in a belt on a long side hill with clutch side in the air.. from past sleds when snow gets to belt u notice right away, these 1100t under full load would hit rev limiter instantly i would think.
Does the belt pull the cords/disintegrate, or snap into pices?
Is center to center above 11.5 inches?
Sorry to hear your bad luck. I put 300km on my sled last year. So far this year have put 400km on running BC250kit and WKM clutching (same as you tried) and I'm still on my same belt. I run my sled hard and clutching has been spot on. The clutches do get hot but have had no failure yet. As you said doing repetitive climbs is when your seeing failure, I have done long enough rides with repetitive pulls that my sled was having problems with heat still no belt failure. Have you been only running the stock 082 belt? Few been running other belts with good results.
B
Center to center is 11.5 bang on and belts have desinigrated and have snapped to pieces.. And cat 82 belt. Clutch temps will boil water.
I've always said clutching specifically will not be the main issue of belt burning sleds, just like springs and helixes from various manufacturers will not be the fix for one of these. I have a stock '13 XF ltd demo that has 250km at home on a belt but ate a belt a day in the mountains. It's stock. If I put a different spring or helix in the stock secondary it isn't going to fix the problem. I havent had time to deal with my XF. I also knew what Jim has been working on. If there are 8-10 known factors of belt carnage, any sled can have 1 or all 10 of those issues, and that's just the issues we know about. Are there others we haven't found yet......almost certainly. BFisher unfortunately has one of those sleds.
I think we have heard about enough guys to believe that there are ones that are worst cases than others. Conversely, lots of guys that mountain ride hard, many with 250+ turbo kits (not reflashes) that have not had any issues. I had 830 miles on my '12 on the original belt, with the last couple hundred doing final testing on the BC275 kit. The guy that bought it says it's still running like a champ. I'm harder than most when I'm testing for obvious reasons.
I think we have heard about enough guys to believe that there are ones that are worst cases than others. Conversely, lots of guys that mountain ride hard, many with 250+ turbo kits (not reflashes) that have not had any issues. I had 830 miles on my '12 on the original belt, with the last couple hundred doing final testing on the BC275 kit. The guy that bought it says it's still running like a champ. I'm harder than most when I'm testing for obvious reasons.
1
I also have a 2012 1100T with 1100 miles on the factory installed belt. It has been turned up rite from day 1 with dalton weights, tan spring stock helix and has been pinned more than idled. I have raced on flatland, trails and been at Revelstoke. The belt is now just starting to wear out i can feel a slight vibration when pinned. My 2013 on the otherhand has 450 miles I run MDS wieghts in it 36/42 helix with a stiffer secondary spring and its on belt #2. I hope the belts stop there.
N
I'm new to the 1100t. Looking to pick one up pretty quick. Maybe it's just me, but from what I've been reading it seems that the 12's have been getting much better belt life then the 13's. maybe I'm way off?
J
1970.. I dont know what weights are in the 1100T primary or what the setup is.. is it possible to swap clutches with your other sled just to see if the problem follows? I know you shouldnt mess with a good thing.. however I think it would be interesting to see if the problem follows??
You can run a '13 clutch on a '12 with shims, I've done it, but I don't think you can get a '12 on a '13 with the spec'd alignment. Maybe someone else can chime in if it can be done.
J
update
Just wanted to update after my first ride with the team, the shift of the clutching was the best yet and the belt made it, this is a first on my sled.. boondocking and short climbs in 18" checked temps and had consistent 150-60 on the primary 170-80 on the secondary. Unfortunately the secondary had more helix than called for by jim and I couldnt get the bolts out to change it..
I ran the gates 38c blah blah belt and it looks good no pulled cords or heat checking, it fit like the stock 082 for deflection and did not drag on the primary when new.. However while putting the clutch on found the center to center on my sled is 1/8th long.
next run, I will have the helix where its supposed to be and will try the 44c gates along with the 38 and stock belts.. will also find a decent hill to pull and see what I get..
sled** stock chassy no venting with the bc275 mds weights
julio
Just wanted to update after my first ride with the team, the shift of the clutching was the best yet and the belt made it, this is a first on my sled.. boondocking and short climbs in 18" checked temps and had consistent 150-60 on the primary 170-80 on the secondary. Unfortunately the secondary had more helix than called for by jim and I couldnt get the bolts out to change it..
I ran the gates 38c blah blah belt and it looks good no pulled cords or heat checking, it fit like the stock 082 for deflection and did not drag on the primary when new.. However while putting the clutch on found the center to center on my sled is 1/8th long.
next run, I will have the helix where its supposed to be and will try the 44c gates along with the 38 and stock belts.. will also find a decent hill to pull and see what I get..
sled** stock chassy no venting with the bc275 mds weights
julio
Julio, if you can't get the helix out send her back to me and Ill switch it around and get it right back to you.
1
I switched the clutches from my 12 to 13 ran them both that way for about 100 miles. No problems. Didn't shim or anything just switched them
Most have a shim on the '12 for the alignment spec. I took it out to try the '13 clutch with '13 alignment spec.
