M
Ummmm....... I just saw the latest on this topic..... So don't use electrical upgrade to run turbo oil pump, afr&boost gauges safely??? I'm confused!!
System is already built. Haven't tried it yet tho.
CAUTION: Read this if powering ANY electrical accessories on your PRO.
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
Ummmm....... I just saw the latest on this topic..... So don't use electrical upgrade to run turbo oil pump, afr&boost gauges safely??? I'm confused!!
System is already built. Haven't tried it yet tho.
I'm checking into it right now... a good question has been raised by 429 and want to err on the side of caution. Hence the warning.
Worst case scenario... keep your setup and get a buck-converter off ebay for cheap and wire it into your system.. clean/cheap/easy... and will stabilize the power even more.
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Worst case scenario... keep your setup and get a buck-converter off ebay for cheap and wire it into your system.. clean/cheap/easy... and will stabilize the power even more.
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M
So sounds like the accessories might be getting too much power and it toasts them?
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Here are my finding by applying a variable AC supply to the MtnTk AC to DC Rectifier. I used a quality Fluke Meter.
Input AC Volts/ Output DC Volts
8/ 7.1
9/ 8.12
10/ 9.08
11/ 9.88
12/ 10.95
13/ 11.82
14/ 12.6
15/ 13.6
16/ 14.8
17/ 15.4
18/ 16.59
I have not checked the AC output voltage of the sled yet. These are DC values not peak AC ripple voltages
I am leaning towards a faulty fan at this point.
Input AC Volts/ Output DC Volts
8/ 7.1
9/ 8.12
10/ 9.08
11/ 9.88
12/ 10.95
13/ 11.82
14/ 12.6
15/ 13.6
16/ 14.8
17/ 15.4
18/ 16.59
I have not checked the AC output voltage of the sled yet. These are DC values not peak AC ripple voltages
I am leaning towards a faulty fan at this point.
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I wouldn't think that .59 volts would eat a fan in such a short amount of time on the top end. Would .9volts effect the lower end? I know the operating volts are 8 to 16v for the 4" spal fan. At idle and getting volts lower than the minimum volts for a greater amount of time would that fry the fan?
Sorry, didn't read the whole thing........ you haven't tested the sled yet...... forget my ramblings.
Sorry, didn't read the whole thing........ you haven't tested the sled yet...... forget my ramblings.
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When you test the MTNTK rectifier on the sled...put a couple lightbulbs etc on to load it a bit...
Also... check the AC input as well as at different RPM (which will change the frequency HZ).
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Also... check the AC input as well as at different RPM (which will change the frequency HZ).
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Not necessarily... checking on this.
429 has a diff rectifier (half wave I believe) ... plus it may have been something else.
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I have a couple of MTNTK Rectifiers here I will try and get some readings here later today.
Please Test the MTNTK voltage output with a load at varying RPM if you can.
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M
Anymore on this fellas??
Interested on the results for sure.
Interested on the results for sure.
DC/DC
MD... Dave should be able to give some good readings on the MTNTK unit... that will read differently than a FWR with Capacitor most likely.
I don't have a running machine at my disposal right now to take readings unfortunately.
(and wont for at least a week)
The system that you have MAY or not give you the right voltage level... even though it will be "Clean DC".
Here is the dwg for the system with a DC/DC converter that will regulate the output voltage to a very steady, clean 12V DC that will run all of your accessories very well.
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MD... Dave should be able to give some good readings on the MTNTK unit... that will read differently than a FWR with Capacitor most likely.
I don't have a running machine at my disposal right now to take readings unfortunately.
(and wont for at least a week)The system that you have MAY or not give you the right voltage level... even though it will be "Clean DC".
Here is the dwg for the system with a DC/DC converter that will regulate the output voltage to a very steady, clean 12V DC that will run all of your accessories very well.
"buck converter"
Like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301391726562
With an input range of 9-35vdc and output current capacity of 20amp
Small size, 3"x3"x1.25"
This in conjunction with the Full-wave rectifier and capacitor would give you a very stable, near-pure 12V DC supply.
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M
MD... Dave should be able to give some good readings on the MTNTK unit... that will read differently than a FWR with Capacitor most likely.
I don't have a running machine at my disposal right now to take readings unfortunately.
The system that you have MAY or not give you the right voltage level... even though it will be "Clean DC".
Here is the dwg for the system with a DC/DC converter that will regulate the output voltage to a very steady, clean 12V DC that will run all of your accessories very well.
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So I have built this electrical system minus the buck converter. My gauges work, but my oil pump for turbo doesn't work. All accessories coming off fuse block. Terminal that oil pump is supposed to run off of is only putting out 7.5 volts. Probably explains why its not working!! (while idling). Other gauges are digital and probably take less power to run than a pump. What gives? Is this buck converter supposed to bump it up to 12volts? All these extra wires and gizmos are getting quite annoying!!!!!
Do you have a headlight load when you are getting 7.5 volts?
gmustangt... MD IS running headlights.
MacDawg...
The system is actually very simple the way you have it... a tiny rectifier, a small capacitor and a fuse block to protect distribution.
What voltage are you getting at the (+) & (-) at the Capacitor terminals?
Voltage at Idle? Voltage at 3000RPM?
The AEM AFR gauges need 10 -18vdc... so that would also not work at 7.5 volts.
HMM...
I wish I was there to help you... but in place of that... Please post up some good photos of this whole system you've added from different angles.
Photos of where it's plugged into the harness...the connections on the Bridge Rectifier, the fuse block, ground connections etc.
From the the many back/forth PM's we've done...it seems like there is something simple that is being missed.
Did you buy the parts from the links provided or from other sources?
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MacDawg...
The system is actually very simple the way you have it... a tiny rectifier, a small capacitor and a fuse block to protect distribution.
What voltage are you getting at the (+) & (-) at the Capacitor terminals?
Voltage at Idle? Voltage at 3000RPM?
The AEM AFR gauges need 10 -18vdc... so that would also not work at 7.5 volts.
HMM...
I wish I was there to help you... but in place of that... Please post up some good photos of this whole system you've added from different angles.
Photos of where it's plugged into the harness...the connections on the Bridge Rectifier, the fuse block, ground connections etc.
From the the many back/forth PM's we've done...it seems like there is something simple that is being missed.
Did you buy the parts from the links provided or from other sources?
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M
Hey Eric, my gauges(afr and boost) don't seem to register properly either. When start up, they register, but after it settles down into 1750 -1800 the afr ttys to restart. Haven't measured voltage off those terminals, but am guessing they will be around 7.5 as well. I made a plug harness with a fuse and plugged it into the dc power plug at clutch guard like manufacture recommends, and the pump works great!! just wanted to run cleaner and safer power.
Also real tricky to get photos. Really not much room under hood. Everything is put together as you posted, with the suggested parts from online.
Using this so called buck converter will it bring voltage up to the 12v that is needed? No problems with mfd display, and yes, stock lights are running.
MD...I didn't get a chance to get any readings had to work on my truck. Have you double-checked the positioning of the AC ground wire and the DC ground wire? Your readings act like there is a ground issue.
MD... Your boost gauge shouldn't even need power to read???
Second what Dave said.
Something simple is being overlooked... I feel your frustration.
If you are only making 7 volts... then you need to fix that issue first.
The pics will really help to diagnose your issue.
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Second what Dave said.
Something simple is being overlooked... I feel your frustration.
If you are only making 7 volts... then you need to fix that issue first.
The pics will really help to diagnose your issue.
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M
Digital gloshift gauges being used, so boost does require power. Yeah. Weird, main fuse coming from ac plug, was a 15 amp in line as per suggested, and wouldn't hold. so I reluctantly tried a 20 and holds fine.
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MD.
I want to make sure I get the picture here.
1) Your headlights are working.
2) Your hand warmers function correctly.
3) You have the following electrical accesories hooked up.
A] Silber Oil pump
B] Glow Shift AFR gauge with heated O2 sensor.
C] Glow Shift Boost gauge
3) You are blowing a 15 amp fuse which is hooked up between the Yellow wire of the "AC Pwr" connector and one leg of the AC input on the bridge rectifier.
4) The Brown wire of the "AC Pwr" connector is run directly to the other leg of the AC input on the Bridge rectifier and not to Ground
5) The (+) DC leg of the bridge rectifier is run to the terminal on the Capacitor marked (+). THIS IS IMPORTANT to re-confirm.
6) The (-) DC leg of the bridge rectifier is run to the terminal on the Capacitor marked (-) THIS IS IMPORTANT to re-confirm.
7) THE (-) terminal of the capacitor is ALSO grounded to the chassis.
8) The (+) terminal of the capacitor is also run to the positive input on each of the fuses in the block.
Questions:
What sized fuses are you running in the fuse block for the accessories?
Your headlights are functioning properly and are the correct brightness??
Are you running anything besides the AFR, Boost, and Pump from this supply?
Do you have the Orange wire hooked up on the GlowShift(s)?
If so, what/where do you have this hooked up to?
On the GlowShift AFR, what/where do you have the Red wire hooked to?
On the GlowShift AFR, what/where do you have the White wire hooked to?
You are drawing more than 15amps through this secondary system (the 15 amp fuse is blowing) ... which is more than double the loads of say 4 amps for the AFR, 1amp for the boost transducer and 2 amps for the oil pump.
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I want to make sure I get the picture here.
1) Your headlights are working.
2) Your hand warmers function correctly.
3) You have the following electrical accesories hooked up.
A] Silber Oil pump
B] Glow Shift AFR gauge with heated O2 sensor.
C] Glow Shift Boost gauge
3) You are blowing a 15 amp fuse which is hooked up between the Yellow wire of the "AC Pwr" connector and one leg of the AC input on the bridge rectifier.
4) The Brown wire of the "AC Pwr" connector is run directly to the other leg of the AC input on the Bridge rectifier and not to Ground
5) The (+) DC leg of the bridge rectifier is run to the terminal on the Capacitor marked (+). THIS IS IMPORTANT to re-confirm.
6) The (-) DC leg of the bridge rectifier is run to the terminal on the Capacitor marked (-) THIS IS IMPORTANT to re-confirm.
7) THE (-) terminal of the capacitor is ALSO grounded to the chassis.
8) The (+) terminal of the capacitor is also run to the positive input on each of the fuses in the block.
Questions:
What sized fuses are you running in the fuse block for the accessories?
Your headlights are functioning properly and are the correct brightness??
Are you running anything besides the AFR, Boost, and Pump from this supply?
Do you have the Orange wire hooked up on the GlowShift(s)?
If so, what/where do you have this hooked up to?
On the GlowShift AFR, what/where do you have the Red wire hooked to?
On the GlowShift AFR, what/where do you have the White wire hooked to?
You are drawing more than 15amps through this secondary system (the 15 amp fuse is blowing) ... which is more than double the loads of say 4 amps for the AFR, 1amp for the boost transducer and 2 amps for the oil pump.
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IF your Capacitor polarity was reversed (and I'm not saying that it was) and you were running 15+ amps of reverse current through it...Discard it. The capacitor is damaged and should not be used/re-used.
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