CAUTION: Read this if powering ANY electrical accessories on your PRO.

[MacDawg productions]

Yes, all of the above connections are correct MH. Maybe its possible to have a faulty capacitor, I don't know. Ive spent countless hours tinkering on electrical. I'm back to work today, and won't be home till christmas. Ive deleted the Afr gauge, hooked the boost gauge up to the 2amp dc by headlight, and wired the oil pump with an inline fuse to the dc power by clutch. Can't spend anymore time on this project now, have to revisit this electrical thing in the new year. Time to ride over the holidays!! At least everything important is working, and rideable. for now.
Thanks for your guys help. cheers!!:beer;

 

[mountainhorse]

Gotcha.... we've both spent way too much time on it!... Something, we don't know what yet , is wrong with your, hook-up, components, or the sled.

Riding time is important... have some fun out there!!






.

 

[aksnopro]

Eek

Huh I got 560 miles on my 14 assault with a extension cord wired into the plug by the clutches I cut the cord in half wire in both ends to the helmet and light then use the cord ends for a disconnect. It works great for a quick disconnect when you fall off. Been like this for at 300 miles powering a Helmet light is this something I should be concerned with how many watts can I safely pull? If I turn the headlights on low one helmet light shouldn't be to bad eh?? Thanks for the post and 411 I'll do what it takes to make it right if you guys think this will cause me issues in the long run!!

 

[mountainhorse]

I'm going to stop adding to the discussion and simply summarize with this.

These are my opinions that I feel strongly about.

There are 2 completely separate and independent Stator circuits. One supplies the ECU and Injector systems... the other the lighting/heating/charging systems. Both systems have separate/independent coils in the stator, separate Voltage Regulators (VR's) and are not connected to each other. Even though the 2013-2015 models have a common case for the two separate VR's to save weight... the VR's inside that case are separate for the two Circuits.

These sleds.. with their simple "bare bones" charging systems and dedicated "BatteryLess" EFi systems are specifically setup and purpose built. They were not designed to have a clean 12V accessory power supply for anything of significant draw above 2amps. Are there ways around it... yes... some good and some not so good... the "good" ones will take a systems-approach that considers all component and quality/durability/reliability of output that does not compromise essential systems onboard.

I have personally helped people fix poor running sleds, both turbo and non-turbo, simply by deleting auxiliary loads or moving them to a more appropriate source.

I've also personally repaired a 2013 Turbo PRO RMK that had defective oil pump that ruined his ECU and VR... that pump was plugged into the "DC Pwr" plug with no fuse. That sled left him stranded in the backcountry and had to do a difficult tow out that took the whole next day. The cost for the parts, ECU, VR was over $600 plus the cost of the pump and my labor. He now has over 3500 flawless miles on the sled running all accessories (pump, AFR, GPS) off of the AC Pwr circuit.

The "DC PWR" by the Clutch and the "DC ACC" rubber plug by the headlight come from the same source... that source powers the ECU voltage regulator. The "DC-ACC" connector is fused... the "DC Pwr" connector, by the clutch cover, is NOT fused. This source is completely independent from the lighting/heating/charging coils/VR.

The DC-PWR/DC-Acc circuit runs off the Coil/VR/Capacitor installed at the Polaris factory in your sled... the ECU system on your 2011-2015 PRO RMK.

That circuit was never intended to power many accessories... A visor or GPS/Cell charger sure... fans pumps and auxiliary lighting... no.

The factory put a 2 amp fuse on there as a MAX extra draw for a reason... It supplies only the rubber-connector DC ACC. The Polaris and Kokusan-Denki engineers had NO intention of anyone using the DC plug by the clutch to draw power from... that connector is an INPUT for system-testing and hence has no fuse on it to protect it or the ECU.

After talking to the factory engineers, and looking into the electrical system on PRO, extensively (more than most could value) ... I do not recommend powering anything off the ECU-VR supplied DC other than through the FUSED Rubber Plug and do not use anything more than a 2 amp fuse as a fuse. If you blow a 2 amp fuse, it means that you are drawing more current than the system was designed to handle.

Do not put any motor loads onto this, like a fan, as you will induce electrical "noise" into the ECU system.

There will be members that will chime in with reports to the contrary... and I can say that I sincerely hope that you never have an issue.

Use what you want to use... in the end, It's your sled.




.

 

[MATCO]

Please Test the MTNTK voltage output with a load at varying RPM if you can.

I am using the MTNTK and with a blowhole, Boondocker fan and oil pump as a load, I am seeing 8VDC out. And AC V anywhere from 8 to 15.

When decelerating it goes up to about 11.5VDC. Then goes back to 8 at idle. And the oil pump is not working.

 

[MacDawg productions]

I'm going to stop adding to the discussion and simply summarize with this.

These are my opinions that I feel strongly about.

There are 2 completely separate and independent Stator circuits. One supplies the ECU and Injector systems... the other the lighting/heating/charging systems. Both systems have separate/independent coils in the stator, separate Voltage Regulators (VR's) and are not connected to each other. Even though the 2013-2015 models have a common case for the two separate VR's to save weight... the VR's inside that case are separate for the two Circuits.

These sleds.. with their simple "bare bones" charging systems and dedicated "BatteryLess" EFi systems are specifically setup and purpose built. They were not designed to have a clean 12V accessory power supply for anything of significant draw above 2amps. Are there ways around it... yes... some good and some not so good... the "good" ones will take a systems-approach that considers all component and quality/durability/reliability of output that does not compromise essential systems onboard.

I have personally helped people fix poor running sleds, both turbo and non-turbo, simply by deleting auxiliary loads or moving them to a more appropriate source.

I've also personally repaired a 2013 Turbo PRO RMK that had defective oil pump that ruined his ECU and VR... that pump was plugged into the "DC Pwr" plug with no fuse. That sled left him stranded in the backcountry and had to do a difficult tow out that took the whole next day. The cost for the parts, ECU, VR was over $600 plus the cost of the pump and my labor. He now has over 3500 flawless miles on the sled running all accessories (pump, AFR, GPS) off of the AC Pwr circuit.

The "DC PWR" by the Clutch and the "DC ACC" rubber plug by the headlight come from the same source... that source powers the ECU voltage regulator. The "DC-ACC" connector is fused... the "DC Pwr" connector, by the clutch cover, is NOT fused. This source is completely independent from the lighting/heating/charging coils/VR.

The DC-PWR/DC-Acc circuit runs off the Coil/VR/Capacitor installed at the Polaris factory in your sled... the ECU system on your 2011-2015 PRO RMK.

That circuit was never intended to power many accessories... A visor or GPS/Cell charger sure... fans pumps and auxiliary lighting... no.

The factory put a 2 amp fuse on there as a MAX extra draw for a reason... It supplies only the rubber-connector DC ACC. The Polaris and Kokusan-Denki engineers had NO intention of anyone using the DC plug by the clutch to draw power from... that connector is an INPUT for system-testing and hence has no fuse on it to protect it or the ECU.

After talking to the factory engineers, and looking into the electrical system on PRO, extensively (more than most could value) ... I do not recommend powering anything off the ECU-VR supplied DC other than through the FUSED Rubber Plug and do not use anything more than a 2 amp fuse as a fuse. If you blow a 2 amp fuse, it means that you are drawing more current than the system was designed to handle.

Do not put any motor loads onto this, like a fan, as you will induce electrical "noise" into the ECU system.

There will be members that will chime in with reports to the contrary... and I can say that I sincerely hope that you never have an issue.

Use what you want to use... in the end, It's your sled.




.

Mountain horse..... Thank you for all your hard work, input and knowledge on this forum. It doesn't go un noticed to the people that know better. We really appreciate it. May your season be bottomless bar dips friend!!!
Cheers!!

 

[acutah]

All this can seriously make a guys brain hurt. I experienced all of these gremlins last season with my electrical. Running a Silber turbo with koso x2 gauge. I definitely have it hooked up wrong! Currently you need to give the sled a fair amount of throttle sometimes to even get the koso to power up.

I get that this is an ongoing fix but can you layout a list if exact parts needed and locations for install to be as safe as possible? I think it's all still a bit confusing. Thx!

 

[Tchetek]

Anyone confirm the buck converter is required or is the capacitor enough to stabilize the output.

That buck converter is not available anymore at that link and others I have found on line have a 17-35 volt input range.

 

[diamonddave]

I did do some testing with different loads, etc on the MTNTK rectifier last year and forgot to update this. I had purchased 2 of them and just let me say they both went back in the box. They are so cheap I figured what the heck, I'll test 2 to verify readings a little better. I looked for my notes yesterday but couldn't find the exacts. But I remember the highlights of the results.:face-icon-small-sho

The voltage output is scary random even with loads. I loaded it with some different loads that should be as close to the draw of an oil pump and AFR. At one time with the sled on the stand and 5,500 RPM, I saw 18 volts DC.

I'm not sure if Eric ever revisited this last year. I didn't have any snow and never got back to this. I think the KOSO rectifier and MTNTK rec are the same?

I know with the elimination of aux electric oil pumps by many of the turbo builders, this may not be an issue but I'd still like to see if this can solved.

 

[sledheadjake]

So I got a heated rsi throddle block, it says to replace the 2 amp
Fuse with the supplied 15 I believe, is it OK to only run the 2 or will it strand me some where if it blows? Will it be fine with just the 2 fuse?

 

[black z]

So I got a heated rsi throddle block, it says to replace the 2 amp
Fuse with the supplied 15 I believe, is it OK to only run the 2 or will it strand me some where if it blows? Will it be fine with just the 2 fuse?

Same question. Everything works on mine, but I just left the 2 amp fuse.

 

[kanedog]

I did do some testing with different loads, etc on the MTNTK rectifier last year and forgot to update this. I had purchased 2 of them and just let me say they both went back in the box. They are so cheap I figured what the heck, I'll test 2 to verify readings a little better. I looked for my notes yesterday but couldn't find the exacts. But I remember the highlights of the results.:face-icon-small-sho

The voltage output is scary random even with loads. I loaded it with some different loads that should be as close to the draw of an oil pump and AFR. At one time with the sled on the stand and 5,500 RPM, I saw 18 volts DC.

I'm not sure if Eric ever revisited this last year. I didn't have any snow and never got back to this. I think the KOSO rectifier and MTNTK rec are the same?

I know with the elimination of aux electric oil pumps by many of the turbo builders, this may not be an issue but I'd still like to see if this can solved.

I did the mtntk rectifier also. Connected it to ac power plug. Sled wouldn't run so on the bench
The rectifier sits. Bye bye $20. Don't they test this stuff before selling it?
It's not worth my time for the $20 to send it back, deal with refund, package it up etc. so now it rests beside my old aerocharger broken stuff.

 

[diamonddave]

Eric/Anybody else, did anybody ever dive into this and come up with a solution?

 

[Michel R.]

Good evening. Does anyone know exactly how many watt or ampere maximum goes into the '' Dc Pwr '' plug?

 

[zaasman]

Good evening. Does anyone know exactly how many watt or ampere maximum goes into the '' Dc Pwr '' plug?

If you're supplying power to that plug, say for test purposes, you just need to ensure your supply is capable of sourcing enough power. This circuit powers the gauge, LED tail light, and accessories (DC ACC plug). Assuming you don't have any accessories hooked up it won't draw much, maybe an amp. Using a 12V car battery will supply more than enough. I use a 7amp power supply for this, which is plenty.

If you're talking about drawing power from this plug, say for an accessory, take head the advice from @mountainhorse in his opening post. Better to use the DC ACC plug, and keep it under 2amps.

 

[Michel R.]

Do you think it's possible?

Polaris switchback assault 800 2012.
Manual starter.
Installation of a battery and others for accessories.

 

[zaasman]

I would look at the electric start plug for that, rather than DC PWR. There's a rectifier dedicated to charging a battery that feeds that plug, separate from the regulator/rectifier that supplies vdc to the rest of the sled.

Do you have a service manual? If not, you should get your hands on one. It has all this info in there, along with helpful wiring diagrams. It won't tell you how many additional amps you can safely draw though, and that I can't tell you either.

 

[Michel R.]

I would look at the electric start plug for that, rather than DC PWR. There's a rectifier dedicated to charging a battery that feeds that plug, separate from the regulator/rectifier that supplies vdc to the rest of the sled.

Do you have a service manual? If not, you should get your hands on one. It has all this info in there, along with helpful wiring diagrams. It won't tell you how many additional amps you can safely draw though, and that I can't tell you either.

Yes I understand but I do not have the electric starter option, I start manually. I don't think I have this kind of plug in my polaris .... unless I'm mistaken.

 

[Michel R.]

On a model without an electric starter, is there a plug on the regulator rectifier to charge a battery that is not connected?

And if so, is it possible to take my current from this outlet instead of taking it from the dc pwr outlet?

And if it is yes to the 2 questions, can you show it to me in photo that I can use it please.

 

[Michel R.]

My biggest question is where can I draw power to charge my battery while I'm riding. All my accessories will connect to a fuse box and then to the battery.