T3 SHR 860 with Aerocharger Build
- Thread starter nuttyn01
- Start date
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yes
thanks shawn. maybe this is the yearHow far are you from cooke city again?
lol....2 days drive one way !!! We would have to go for a week to make it worth while...maybe in March !!
F
After breaking connecting rod last spring and builder seeing same thing happen on another dozen boosted etecs, decided to go with aftermarket rods on theses builds
My rod snaped after a second or two of wot, so it seams that we could be exceeding the strength of the rod on spool up.. It also makes a lot of damage when a rod goes out
We are going with snow x rods on both builds but would like to try titanuim rods if I could find some, know of a few others that run them very successfully
My rod snaped after a second or two of wot, so it seams that we could be exceeding the strength of the rod on spool up.. It also makes a lot of damage when a rod goes out
We are going with snow x rods on both builds but would like to try titanuim rods if I could find some, know of a few others that run them very successfully
F
Comparison of the stock to snowx rods
Oem is .65kg
Snowx is .60kg
Oem is .65kg
Snowx is .60kg
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Cost wise I would think H beam 4340 rods would do the job.
T
If you had a better fuel management system, you would not be having problems with rods. All the impulse turbo last year ran great with no rod or piston failures.
F
Lol, this is no fueling issue, lots of guys have the same issue with rods breaking, ask around, I had no problems in three years than it happened..
My engine builder got me thinking, he has seen and heard over a dozen, and the bb turbo would only push the limit even quicker
Lot of tq put on rods on spool-up
My engine builder got me thinking, he has seen and heard over a dozen, and the bb turbo would only push the limit even quicker
Lot of tq put on rods on spool-up
T
bb
sounds like the stock 800 is more reliable on boost than the bb's. and cheaper
sounds like the stock 800 is more reliable on boost than the bb's. and cheaper
S
Rod failures RARELY fail in a properly running system. You most likely had detonation or WAY to high of cylinder pressures.
F
I thought of that as well. Happened right after turning boost to 8lbs...
No det codes or signs on the piston of det..
hope it does not happen agin with the aftermarket rods installed... Time will tell
No det codes or signs on the piston of det..
hope it does not happen agin with the aftermarket rods installed... Time will tell
M
I notice the rod appears to be locked to the piston. It may have happened after it broke, but maybe not.......
It's very possible the rod broke because of a piston pin issue that locked them together and didn't allow free rotation. If pins seize because of oiling or clearance issues you are apt to have problems, and if the pin is not strong enough it can bend and or distort into an oval shape which also locks the piston and rod together. Pin bores on the piston or rod can become distorted for various reasons which will make them tight on the pin.
That could be the reason the skirts are broken too. I don't have any experience with Ski-Doo engines and parts per se, but with drag race V-8's. So I don't know what parts you need to keep from breaking, but in many other engines it's pin problems that cause the rods to break.
If the rod broke because of a pin issue, replacing the rod with a stronger (presumably) one may not be enough to fix your problem, you may need to address some other issues as well.
It's very possible the rod broke because of a piston pin issue that locked them together and didn't allow free rotation. If pins seize because of oiling or clearance issues you are apt to have problems, and if the pin is not strong enough it can bend and or distort into an oval shape which also locks the piston and rod together. Pin bores on the piston or rod can become distorted for various reasons which will make them tight on the pin.
That could be the reason the skirts are broken too. I don't have any experience with Ski-Doo engines and parts per se, but with drag race V-8's. So I don't know what parts you need to keep from breaking, but in many other engines it's pin problems that cause the rods to break.
If the rod broke because of a pin issue, replacing the rod with a stronger (presumably) one may not be enough to fix your problem, you may need to address some other issues as well.
T
I don't need to ask around about other turbo kits with rod failures lol. I know what is working. 25 Impulse turbo's xm on snow last year and not one rod failure. You should be asking why Impulse can run a lot more boost than your set up and not lose rods.
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Pin and piston are free
not sure on the impulse setup, but on the aero and tss we have seen a few, maybe because they sell Ten times more...might also say something to impulse hp, but I bet it's just volume of kits in the field.. Time will tell
Here are a few I reported in last few weeks of running thread
http://www.snowandmud.com/ski-doo-turbo-464/con-rods-breaking-turbo-motors-95664.html
not sure on the impulse setup, but on the aero and tss we have seen a few, maybe because they sell Ten times more...might also say something to impulse hp, but I bet it's just volume of kits in the field.. Time will tell
Here are a few I reported in last few weeks of running thread
http://www.snowandmud.com/ski-doo-turbo-464/con-rods-breaking-turbo-motors-95664.html
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boondocking vid
Here is a little vid in the big horns...some easy boondocking to break in the motor. It was at about 50% break-in. This motor builds boost crazy fast
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilSzPMuw2QI
Here is a little vid in the big horns...some easy boondocking to break in the motor. It was at about 50% break-in. This motor builds boost crazy fast
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilSzPMuw2QI
Here is a little vid in the big horns...some easy boondocking to break in the motor. It was at about 50% break-in. This motor builds boost crazy fast
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilSzPMuw2QI
I can't watch it because the video is private.
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should be public now.
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