Simple spring/weight rundown

[Kcjepperson]

Can someone explain the spring/weight relation in the primary clutch. If you have a stiffer spring does it give youore or less rpm is the primary.

And then the same thing in the driven/secondary if you have a heavier spring does it help with more rpms or take away. And also the relation of the spring and the helix.

Thanks in advance

 

[winter brew]

Stiffer spring = more RPM, either clutch.
Lighter weight = more RPM, assuming same weight/arm profile.
Aaen clutch book is a good read if you want a good understanding of what is going on with your clutches and to tailor you clutching to what YOU want.

 

[Kcjepperson]

Is it better to run a lighter spring and heavier weights or a heavier spring and lighter weights, what will allow your clutch to run cooler?

Also, I feel like the steeper the final cut is on my helix the more my sled will pull on the top end, is that correct or am I smoking something?

 

[winter brew]

The steepest helix you can run and still have good backshift and maintain RPM will pull harder....of course what that helix is will vary with primary setup and many other factors.
For the hills, a moderate-heavy spring with heavy weight will generally be the most consistant and show more speed on the hill.
For roads and drags I like a light spring and light-moderate weight, steeper helix.
So many factors and different ways to clutch there is no hard rule about what works better, personal preference is part of it too.

 

[Kcjepperson]

Thank you for all the great information.

One last question,

I am running a 73-59 helix and the response is all at the bottom end I understand with the bottom being that steep I engage the bottom very quickly and it pulls really hard on the bottom and mid range. I really like othe throttle response this provides but on top end just feels like it does off. I have marked my primary clutch and the belt is engaging to about a 1/4 to 3/8 to the top and I am still running great rpm on long pulls. Should I try a steeper top cut to get the top end to pull more or try and even the cuts out a little better so I feel like the powerband is pretty consistent like a stock pro. And if I even them out will this take away from the snappy throttle response I have now on the bottom

Thanks again

 

[Kcjepperson]

Will the straight cut helix give you the feel of having a consistent powerband from bottom to top range?

 

[winter brew]

Ive never had good luck with straight cuts with big tracks. You need a steeper start angle to get a stronger launch, shallower finish to maintain squeeze/lessen slippage with the decreased belt contact area and good backshift.
Of course its all a balance game with the primary setup but that has generally been what works for me on most sleds.
I ran a 73/63.46 on the tied with black/purple....that was with a TRA and 163 track....its a very forgiving clutch, still had great RPM recovery with a relatively steep helix.
I dont have a lot of experience with that clutch, spend most of the time with Doo stuff.
Did work out a Pro setup but staying with the stock Tss 04 secondary.

 

[Kcjepperson]

Can I ask you what your setup was for the tss04 is? I have tried just about every spring helix combination with the tied and it's getting frustrated. I have a very strong pulling bottom and but the top end just feels like it stops pulling. I am going to try a 60-42.36 and a 60-44.36. And then change more of the weight to the tip of my weights.

 

[bdoe22]

75 59

what elevation are you running? I am running the 75 59 at 5-7k and it runs really strong....haven't seen a stock motor pro that will run with it. drag race, hill climb or boondocking....I have seen consistantly 3-5 mph faster track speeds than any other stock motor pro regardless of clutching. I started with the 10-64's, and am now running the spectrum 3-d flyweights at 66+Grams with great results.