How much weight are you running and what is the peak RPM you achieve at riding elevation?
Silber Turbo Bog Issue
- Thread starter powdersnobb
- Start date
How much weight are you running and what is the peak RPM you achieve at riding elevation?
P
I have tried from 72 to 78g. At least that's what my scale shows. That's the range i have from silber. They all yield the same results, same bog, same rpms.
P
Gotcha. Makes some sense now. Thanks.
P
It appears it's becoming moto season quickly right now. I wont really be able to test or do much on the sled until we get more snow again.
P
Sorry, I am 10k ft and up.
Even though you did set it- it worth checking again- manually adjusting is the best way- I have had to set parameters more closley to the min .
Polaris has a pretty good swing in what is "within their " recommended TPS sweep range.
If your loading the motor with clutching- you can see the importance of correct TPS settings,that your sled will respond to and off idle sure points to TPS-
The reason why I am saying this is because you stated in your first post... this is newly installed.
I have clutching for people in Colorado that run a silber and are running 10K elevations all day long- 7# boost have them in 70gm weights turning 8500 rpm . with the stock primary spring rates.
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P
What should my TPS be in your opinion? Should I drop this down some? I reset this again before my last test ride this week. I did this with a high end Fluke meter. I do electrical work as well. I cycled throttle a couple times after all was tight to make sure no change or movement in settings. Here is what I set at:
.701 volts baseline
.941 volts idle screw set
Orig. setting before I ever touched it:
.708 volts baseline
.798 volts idle set
Should I try going back to my stock primary spring and lighter weight? If so, would I need to change the secondary back to stock also? Currently my clutches are pretty cool.
Here is what the sweep range is from my notes according to polaris Base: 690-710 / Idle 930-949
I just set-up a 2016 silber Axys 800 that cured his idle issues & loading ( bog at creek jumping flickering headlights 1400 rpm.ect.ect)
He was at Base .702 and Idle .943- I set him to Base .691& Idle .947 Cured his issue. and his idle was good @ 8,000' elevation now at 1550 rpm-
I do see idle rpm fluctuate from my shop @ 6900' to our riding unloading parking lot area @ 8,000' so settings were corrected to compensate for this.
I set up 10K sleds primary weights with 70 gram (TRS) weights ( love the way they tuck under) & a 140/330 spring and belt to sheave to as close to 0.20 as I can get it... (we use NO DELRIN washers in the primary) and bang the RPM target @ 8450 to 8500
I don't know what your running in the secondary but the helix that works is 42/32F when compaired to the stock Axys helix..
Your 72-78 grm weights seem way to heavy for your elevation I run 73.9 grms @ 7-9K elevation !!!.
As I previously stated, not all settings are magical- different sleds respond to their own sweet spot-
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P
I changed mine to your specs. Waiting for snow now. I am not sure how to order a helix with the numbers you gave here. Apparently need more numbers to find the right one. Can you tell me exactly what to search for on that? I should still probably just roll with a whole clutch kit next season though.
Thanks.
Provide numbers,,, those are the helix angles- If you P/M my friend... TRS on here- tell him I sent you and he can fix you up with the helix-and if you want he has weights that are working spot on - and he has alot of time into these-and markets his tried and true- Dont forget to ask for for his clutch offset bar.. it makes a difference on how to make your belt run true..
I hope the spec's provided work on your TPS.. as stated eairler in my post- sleds react to different settings- but those are what I use in my sled, and it has worked in a few others recently.
Remember I run 9,000' elevation.
P
Well, i tried more tweeking on the tps. No change. I tried heaviest and lightest weights. Lighter gives harder hit, but slightly less bog. It's still there with little change though. It actually gave a couple almost backfires in that range today as well when i really hit the throttle hard. This is weird. Really doesn't seem like clutching to me.
it sounds to me like belt tension!!
I have found that the boondoker helix.. does not allow the belt sheeves to clamp
This resulting in a bog!!
Indy dan..helix . no issues there
I have found that the boondoker helix.. does not allow the belt sheeves to clamp
This resulting in a bog!!
Indy dan..helix . no issues there
If it was just about the weights in clutching, then life would be wonderful. You have to match spring weights, helix angle, sheave spacing, etc. I run straight 91 at 6-9k on 5# boost, 8450rpm all day long. My weights? 68 gram TRS.
If your time is worth ANYTHING, just let Tony, at TRS take care of you. Sooooo worth it.
If your time is worth ANYTHING, just let Tony, at TRS take care of you. Sooooo worth it.
Everyone here has given good advice.
Have you tried adjusting your throttle cable up by your handle bars? By doing this you can adjust your idle rpm. I noticed mine runs better when its idling at least 1750rpm-1900rpm. (I don't know if anyone else has found they run better with a slighter higher idle???)
I also loosened my belt deflection, as It seemed running it too tight made it squeal but also bog/ stumble/ hesitate more. These two things helped my 16axys silber.
I do run the full indy dan turbo clutching too.
Have you tried adjusting your throttle cable up by your handle bars? By doing this you can adjust your idle rpm. I noticed mine runs better when its idling at least 1750rpm-1900rpm. (I don't know if anyone else has found they run better with a slighter higher idle???)
I also loosened my belt deflection, as It seemed running it too tight made it squeal but also bog/ stumble/ hesitate more. These two things helped my 16axys silber.
I do run the full indy dan turbo clutching too.
Mine is exactly the same.
P
Regarding all of this, I did get the TRS clutch work done. Sled feels real nice in the trees compared to the Silber clutching. Belt stays super cool as well. Tony is awesome to deal with. He has put up with all sorts of stupid and annoying questions from me. That part is dialed, however, the stutter/blubbery feel is still there.
It is worse in eth mode. Worse with more av gas. Not noticeable when the machine is shut down for a lunchbreak then fired up and ridden again for about 1 to 2 min, then its back once things get warmed up again. Plugs generally sort of wet when at this rpm range.
My conclusion so far: Too much pre boost fuel. Needs more air or less fuel pre boost. It seems obvious that it is worse upon warmer engine temp, EGT, or IAT. Since Silber wont try to tune for this, I am sort of stuck. I need to create a fresh air valve similar to the new doo. Not the easiest of tasks as 2" ID piping and couplers are tough to find.
I am first going to try cutting the spring down on my thermostat. My theory is that if the ECU is smart enough to adjust fuel to coolant temps on a progressive rate, it may lean it out on the bottom end enough to help this. I don't know the algorithms of this FI system and if it will help though. Cars progressively monitor and change timing and fuel for this, so it seems sleds should as well. My goal is to get from the 125f operating temp down closer to 100f similar to the 2018 sleds. It seems 2018 up does not have the issue as much. They changed the EGT sensor as well for 18 up. This might be another possible thing to swap. I am not sure on the bung size though.
Another route that is out of my price range currently is to get the Force Turbo fueling upgrade.
forceturbos.com
I'll bet some money that this gets these sleds running like a top!!! Let me know if you all have tried it! I may pull the trigger next year.
It is worse in eth mode. Worse with more av gas. Not noticeable when the machine is shut down for a lunchbreak then fired up and ridden again for about 1 to 2 min, then its back once things get warmed up again. Plugs generally sort of wet when at this rpm range.
My conclusion so far: Too much pre boost fuel. Needs more air or less fuel pre boost. It seems obvious that it is worse upon warmer engine temp, EGT, or IAT. Since Silber wont try to tune for this, I am sort of stuck. I need to create a fresh air valve similar to the new doo. Not the easiest of tasks as 2" ID piping and couplers are tough to find.
I am first going to try cutting the spring down on my thermostat. My theory is that if the ECU is smart enough to adjust fuel to coolant temps on a progressive rate, it may lean it out on the bottom end enough to help this. I don't know the algorithms of this FI system and if it will help though. Cars progressively monitor and change timing and fuel for this, so it seems sleds should as well. My goal is to get from the 125f operating temp down closer to 100f similar to the 2018 sleds. It seems 2018 up does not have the issue as much. They changed the EGT sensor as well for 18 up. This might be another possible thing to swap. I am not sure on the bung size though.
Another route that is out of my price range currently is to get the Force Turbo fueling upgrade.
Turbo fueling upgrade for Polaris Axys
Force Turbo's Universal Fuel Upgrade System for Polaris Axys 800 units (2016-2018). Secondary injector assembly for additional fuel. Increases fuel as required with additional boost levels, low elevation applications and custom modifications.
forceturbos.com
This may sound stupid but are you blipping the throttle first or grabbing from a flat idle? I have never rode a turbo that doesn’t need a blip before it cleans out. The warmer the the air if from engine heat at idle or ambient temperature the worse it seems to be. Silber in slightly fat to be on the safe side it seems.
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