Rear suspension sag
- Thread starter Team X-treme
- Start date
I can see having sag when you sit on it .But is that why you have the sag when there is no weight on there also?
M
save up your money and get a timbersled rear suspension, my buddie has one and it is awesome! but kinda expensive.
Did your buddy's sled climb or go in the powder any better with the timber suspention?
M
he claimed both. I could see his susp transfer in the whoops as we would ride in and out to our riding spots and it looked smooth. he claims it made such an improvement in the it handled it was worth the $$. so I'm saving up for one.
D
Hmmmm.... gets me thinking
R
Ok, so I just switched to Walker Evan air's on my sled (check my sig), and it didnt sag bad before, but after the switch it drops about 6" with NO weight on it at all. Would this be the springs or could it be a bad rear skid shock? Is there a way add tention to the springs, or do they just sit in the two saddles on each end? Not sure if you need to add tension to the springs, but I can pull them out easily by hand...
Anyone got detailed instructions for the fix?
Anyone got detailed instructions for the fix?
Free fix!
You can add tension to the stock springs two different ways to achieve better performance of the suspension.
First and easiest, set your adjustment cams up to a higher setting.
If that isn't enough (it will help a little, but not enough for what you need Rob), you can move the lower mounting piont for the spring back on the rail to achieve a much stiffer stance.
Moving the lower arm back even a small amount (3/4" as I did) will greatly increase the lift of the spring.
the previous hole where I am pointing was letting the suspension sag about 4-5 inches when caked with ice and snow, moving it back to the current location has proven to eliminate almost all the sag and at the same time it is nearly impossible to tell the difference in the way the sled handles.
REMEMBER, a little adjustment will go a LONG way!
Good luck
You can add tension to the stock springs two different ways to achieve better performance of the suspension.
First and easiest, set your adjustment cams up to a higher setting.
If that isn't enough (it will help a little, but not enough for what you need Rob), you can move the lower mounting piont for the spring back on the rail to achieve a much stiffer stance.
Moving the lower arm back even a small amount (3/4" as I did) will greatly increase the lift of the spring.
the previous hole where I am pointing was letting the suspension sag about 4-5 inches when caked with ice and snow, moving it back to the current location has proven to eliminate almost all the sag and at the same time it is nearly impossible to tell the difference in the way the sled handles.
REMEMBER, a little adjustment will go a LONG way!
Good luck
R
Ok, first this is a quick comparisson of the sag, gf holding the bumper where it should be with natural sag playing into it....
This second one shows where it goes after, just no tension to hold it...
This second one shows where it goes after, just no tension to hold it...
R
look at the comparisson to where it is on her pants, didnt have anything else really to compare with, and it was dark and the only light was the flash and the headlights haha
R
The cams are both set to the highest setting
not sure I guess, did something flip around when the shock was out?? Anyone see something in this pic?
Is there a way to put more tension on these springs besides the way 94 is doing it? Do I need fatboy springs now that they have been pulled out of the cams, or is there a way to re-tension the springs? I know the shocks are good, its just the angle it is all in there that it's not putting enough force in the middle of the skid to hold its own....
Ideas?
not sure I guess, did something flip around when the shock was out?? Anyone see something in this pic?
Is there a way to put more tension on these springs besides the way 94 is doing it? Do I need fatboy springs now that they have been pulled out of the cams, or is there a way to re-tension the springs? I know the shocks are good, its just the angle it is all in there that it's not putting enough force in the middle of the skid to hold its own....
Ideas?
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R
TTT, hoping maybe Ron or Mountainhorse see this, not sure what I'm missing....
R
bump, looking for answers to fix tonight hopefully....
R
Anything? Headed out there in about an hour to go work on it, would like to have some direction if I can fix it or not... gonna adjust the set screw for the pressure in the shocks as a starting point, even though I know its something else either in the springs or the skid....
R
TTT anyone?
R
???????
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R
last bump, otherwise polaris gets it tomorrow...
D
Hey 94fordguy,
I looked at my setup and was not able to see how you moved the lower arm back. Mine is maxed and will not move any further back ( I would also have to drill holes). How did you do yours? Also, thanks polaris_1334 for the pics. I don't have a solution--except mine does the same thing, just not as bad--but your pic confirmed that my rail wasn't bent: your's has the same curve after the lower arm mounting point!
I looked at my setup and was not able to see how you moved the lower arm back. Mine is maxed and will not move any further back ( I would also have to drill holes). How did you do yours? Also, thanks polaris_1334 for the pics. I don't have a solution--except mine does the same thing, just not as bad--but your pic confirmed that my rail wasn't bent: your's has the same curve after the lower arm mounting point!
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Here are some thoughts...Rob. It's not a good idea to change the location of the rear arm like 94 did. It will also change the function of the shock & the length of travel. Must not be too bad if 94 has already been doing it. Shocks have a max travel limit & if you make a change to the distance of the swing you run the risk of bottoming the shock on a big hit-that could destroy the shock. Or the shock may lose some effectiveness because you have changed the movement points.
The shock does not control sag, only the springs. I assume that the suspension is all "flat" on a floor-if any part is on a block or rise it changes sag in the rear, makes it worse if the front suspension is collapsed. Can't tell in the pictures if the sag is with or without rider-assume rider is on the sled in pic 2. Will also assume that Rob isn't a big boy, 250 or more. If rider is on the sled & Rob is not a big guy then the springs are toast. (Or you have a broken suspension component) All springs take a set & some lose temper-then time for new springs. Going too heavy on rear springs has a negative effect on sled handling & weight transfer. Since the front track shock acts as a fulcrum, jacking up the rear puts the nose down. On the Edge chassis this is not so bad since they needed more ski pressure. But on The IQ, rider foreward sled, it can make the sled ill handling & nose heavy. When you pin the throttle you need some weight transfer to get the nose up, especially in the powder. Another thing on the IQ you are sitting/standing more over the front axle so the riders weight is much less on the rear suspension than on the edge.
The Polaris sleds are designed with sag. The most uniform method is to measure sag at the rear mounting bolt. (Measuring on the bumper is different because as a sled gets longer the rear drop at the bumper is greater.) First-measuring the distance to the floor without a rider, lift the rear of the sled & then let it sag to measure #1. Then get on the sled & jump up and down a few times, then sit in normal riding position & measure again. Polaris says the distance at the rear bumper should be about 5". I go for 4.5" to 5" at the rear suspension bolt.
As a practical matter I run my rear spring in the loose postion until hill climbing (in set up snow)& then crank it all the way up for less weight transfer. That way you have good weight transfer in the powder but no wheelies climbing. On hardpack this can lead to washing out in corners so you may need more rear spring tension, hasn't been an issue with mine. But if you get my drift, I use the rear springs as a suspension tuning tool.
If you determine that you need new springs, I have some. I put a Holz in my 09 so have all front & rear arms, springs, & a bunch of parts. Rear suspension parts retro back to 03 & are lighter on the 08/09 Dragons. I'll sell everything for $100 + $15 shipping, less than the cost of new springs. Picture of parts available.
Good luck,
Ron
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