Rear Suspension Baseline Photo's

[Teth-Air]

Please post the following info:

Year = 2008
Model = X
Track length = 154
Rear skid spring setting = 3
Front skid setting = 3/4 tightened


photo 1, approx 150 lbs on the back bumper, height to bottom of bumper = 19 3/4"

photo 2, remove weight and sled rises to = 23"

photo 3, lift sled to extend rear suspension, but do not lift off ground = 25 1/2"

photo 4 rear skid spring adjustment

photo 5 front skid spring adjustment


Thanks.

 

[Teth-Air]

ttt

 

[Chubbydog]

I'm not home to take any pictures of my sled, but your avatar rocks. You get rep for that one!

 

[madmax]

Combine Chubbydog's avatar with Teth-air's and now you've got something.

 

[sdbanker]

Teth-Air are you standing on the bumper? I can't get pics of mine right now, but have 08 154 (non-x) and have changed the rear springs to the heavier ones. Before this I ran the stock springs on 4, now can run them on 2. My front skid is near full out and straps let all the way out and then some.

 

[Teth-Air]

I had most of my weight on the bumper but one foot just lightly on the floor for balance. I expect 150 lbs.

Thanks for the kudo's on the avitar.


UPDATE: I HAVE ZERO SAG NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I dropped the front of the skid 7/8 of an inch this afternoon and the suspension rebounds all the way to the stop. I drilled out the 2 rivits on either side of the front skid suspension mount brackets, flipped them to re-use the same rivit holes and re-drilled the mounting bolt holes. This was easy as I put the plates on the outside of the tunnel temporarily with small bolts and drilled the new mount hole.

 

[giddyup]

thanks for the fix

thanks again for the fix i have the sleds loaded for the holidays but i will do it when i get back, were heading back to fernie on the 14th hopeing for snow
giddyup

 

[MT boondocker]

I had most of my weight on the bumper but one foot just lightly on the floor for balance. I expect 150 lbs.

Thanks for the kudo's on the avitar.


UPDATE: I HAVE ZERO SAG NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I dropped the front of the skid 7/8 of an inch this afternoon and the suspension rebounds all the way to the stop. I drilled out the 2 rivits on either side of the front skid suspension mount brackets, flipped them to re-use the same rivit holes and re-drilled the mounting bolt holes. This was easy as I put the plates on the outside of the tunnel temporarily with small bolts and drilled the new mount hole.

Great information.
By any chance do you have pictures of what you did?
Pictures seem to help me out on certain things.

 

[Chubbydog]

I dropped the front of the skid 7/8 of an inch this afternoon and the suspension rebounds all the way to the stop. I drilled out the 2 rivits on either side of the front skid suspension mount brackets, flipped them to re-use the same rivit holes and re-drilled the mounting bolt holes.

Did you add the drop brackets? This sounds exactly like what we had to do after installed the Smitty's drops. I don't have any pictures right now, but I know there's 0 sag. Mine's a 163" also.

 

[gpr]

I dropped the front of the skid 7/8 of an inch this afternoon and the suspension rebounds all the way to the stop. I drilled out the 2 rivits on either side of the front skid suspension mount brackets, flipped them to re-use the same rivit holes and re-drilled the mounting bolt holes. This was easy as I put the plates on the outside of the tunnel temporarily with small bolts and drilled the new mount hole.

Yeah if you had pictures to show this, it would help a bunch as i don't quite know what your talking about. All i know is i really need to do something to fix the sag. I can pull my 163" all the way up and let go (both springs as tight as possible) and it will settle 5".

 

[Teth-Air]

Okay here are the pictures. I have now been able to drop my rear springs to 2 now and tighten the front skid spring to about 85-90% to make the sled feel lighter in the front end.

Merry Christmas!

 

[sdbanker]

I have been considering this change as well. But have read about a problem with the front shock getting bent as the geometry has changed and when the rear compresses the front shock doesn't cycle correctly and will bend the rod. I recall reading that you need to drill the rails and move the bottom of the front skid shock back to allow for proper movement. Please let us know how it works for you.

 

[Teth-Air]

I have been considering this change as well. But have read about a problem with the front shock getting bent as the geometry has changed and when the rear compresses the front shock doesn't cycle correctly and will bend the rod. I recall reading that you need to drill the rails and move the bottom of the front skid shock back to allow for proper movement. Please let us know how it works for you.

I have been down that road and it is the exact opposite. After 1/2 a season with the skid shock moved in the rail, the lower cross mount did bend. This way now I can't see any problems.

And Chubs, I did not put in the drop brackets just did the front of the skid. there is more track on the floor now too. I don't expect it is enough to increase trenching.

 

[Throttle Junkie]

I have been down that road and it is the exact opposite. After 1/2 a season with the skid shock moved in the rail, the lower cross mount did bend. This way now I can't see any problems.

And Chubs, I did not put in the drop brackets just did the front of the skid. there is more track on the floor now too. I don't expect it is enough to increase trenching.

So the reason for the sag is when sitting on the floor most of the weight of the sled is sitting on the rear of the track due to the track in the front beign off the floor. now with moving the suspension down the front track shock is holding more weight.

Are these on the non X's?? just curious I have a X with the limiter strap all the way out and the front track shock tightned up and I have no issues with sag (154) but with the strap out and shock tighten up the front is holding more of the sled simular to moving the mount down.

Like the avitar..is that the Klim logo??

 

[Teth-Air]

So the reason for the sag is when sitting on the floor most of the weight of the sled is sitting on the rear of the track due to the track in the front beign off the floor. now with moving the suspension down the front track shock is holding more weight.

Are these on the non X's?? just curious I have a X with the limiter strap all the way out and the front track shock tightned up and I have no issues with sag (154) but with the strap out and shock tighten up the front is holding more of the sled simular to moving the mount down.

Like the avitar..is that the Klim logo??

Yes thats the Klim logo! Told the wife I was buying her Klim gear and that is what I came home with.

Mines a xp154, x model. and your exactly right, about the weight on the rear part of the suspension, now both the front and back of the skid share the load.

Take a look where the front shock pushes down in relation to where you sit/stand. You will see that most of the weight is in front of this shock. I don't think any other sled I've owned had this shock so far back in relation to the rider position. You end up with too much weight on the ski's. This mod really should re-balance this sled. Now some will say that the sled will wheelie too much but I don't think so as the rear shock now is way more effective and will push more, keeping the front end down.

 

[MT boondocker]

Thank you to the pictures, helped alot!
Have a couple of questions for you.
The 7/8" down, I'm going to presume that is center to center distance?
Haven't looked at mine, but did you have to turn the stock mounting
brackets around or switch sides to reuse them?
Just trying to get all the information that I would need to do this.
Thanks again for the pictures.

 

[Teth-Air]

Thank you to the pictures, helped alot!
Have a couple of questions for you.
The 7/8" down, I'm going to presume that is center to center distance?
Haven't looked at mine, but did you have to turn the stock mounting
brackets around or switch sides to reuse them?
Just trying to get all the information that I would need to do this.
Thanks again for the pictures.

Used brackets on the same side they came off of. I just flipped them around until the rivit holes lined up but the large bolt holes became in a vertical line instead of the original horizontal line. Remove them and use some small bolts for the rivit holes temporarily and install on the outside of the tunnel as a drilling template before installing them permanently on the inside with rivits. the 7/8" thing was not measured and just assumed from another thread about putting on drop brackets. You can't go wrong in measuring if you use the brackets as a template.

 

[MT boondocker]

Used brackets on the same side they came off of. I just flipped them around until the rivit holes lined up but the large bolt holes became in a vertical line instead of the original horizontal line. Remove them and use some small bolts for the rivit holes temporarily and install on the outside of the tunnel as a drilling template before installing them permanently on the inside with rivits. the 7/8" thing was not measured and just assumed from another thread about putting on drop brackets. You can't go wrong in measuring if you use the brackets as a template.

Thank you, that really helps me out.

 

[sdbanker]

I have been down that road and it is the exact opposite. After 1/2 a season with the skid shock moved in the rail, the lower cross mount did bend. This way now I can't see any problems.

That must have been what I read about, thanks for clearing it up. I have the stiffer springs in the rear, and that eliminated the sag but now I get a wicked kicker off of any bumps. I prefer to run the strap out and the middle shock loose so that I get better transfer and sidehilling. I am starting to think that the best solution is to throw a bunch of cash at a new set of shocks (floats) all the way around or maybe even a timbersled or holz setup.

 

[Teth-Air]

That must have been what I read about, thanks for clearing it up. I have the stiffer springs in the rear, and that eliminated the sag but now I get a wicked kicker off of any bumps. I prefer to run the strap out and the middle shock loose so that I get better transfer and sidehilling. I am starting to think that the best solution is to throw a bunch of cash at a new set of shocks (floats) all the way around or maybe even a timbersled or holz setup.

I am confussed why you would have the midddle shock loose? This would be okay for climbing but when coming down a hill, all the weight colapses this shock and the ski's take the weight. It makes it difficult to roll the sled side to side for when you want to pull a hook and pull back up the hill. I also don't understand how it helps side hilling? With the middle shock tight, the ski's have less pressure and it's easier to hold the line.