Powder freaks center drive on 2.75” tracks

[SidewaysInto3rd]

Anyone try the powder freaks center drive unit on their 3.5” pitch tracks?

I do t have any issue with ratcheting but the damn vibrations are driving me nuts.

I really don’t want to hack up my trails either .... I was told the powder freaks center drive makes better contact with the track drive windows and therefore smoother and does not require as much tension

Any first hand reports of this driver ?

Thanks.


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[kylant]

I have Avid center drive drivers with the 3.5" pitch. I do not have any ratcheting, but have noticed more track shift than ever before. produces a noticeable clunk when the envolutes engage with the track nubs and the extrovert engages with the drive side of the window

 

[diamonddave]

What’s the downside and/or fear from trimming rails and adding an anti-stab? That center driver is one of Polaris’ most Mickey Mouse and worst ideas I have ever seen. Having a driver tooth going straight to rubber with no clip? The heat from this set up causes ice build up in certain situations and compounds the problem. More ratcheting, more tracks damaged. Now much more exacerbated with a 3.5” pitch with one less tooth of engagement with 6 tooth drivers.
i haven’t seen one failure from fully clipping a track, throwing on a set of Avid Powerclaw drivers, trimming rails, and adding a quality ice age or MTNTK anti stab.

 

[TRS]

I believe the vibration is from the odd track lug configuration. You can feel it every time it passes over the driver. Have a look.

 

[Teth-Air]

I believe the vibration is from the odd track lug configuration. You can feel it every time it passes over the driver. Have a look.

Not just that. I know the drivers vibrate some but with the 3.5 pitch, the rear wheels also bump over and sink in between the rods way more. And due to the extra tight tension the wheels bow the track out each time they fall off the rods. I lost a series 6 track when it split at the wheels. 9 inch big wheel kit is on order.

 

[SidewaysInto3rd]

Not just that. I know the drivers vibrate some but with the 3.5 pitch, the rear wheels also bump over and sink in between the rods way more. And due to the extra tight tension the wheels bow the track out each time they fall off the rods. I lost a series 6 track when it split at the wheels. 9 inch big wheel kit is on order.

oh yeah I noticed that to .. when I was tightening my track for the 4th time lol

I was looking at the itek 8.5" plastic wheel kits along with the powder freak center drive .. my dealer says it has way better contact with the track, deeper extro tooth and deeper drivers

 

[kylant]

...and adding a quality ice age or MTNTK anti stab.

ice age is out of stock until next month, MTNTK looks like there is extra rail trimming involved.
Any other quality kit options?

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

ice age is out of stock until next month, MTNTK looks like there is extra rail trimming involved.
Any other quality kit options?

Not that I’m aware of.

The mtntk makes all others look like toys.
(Not the place you want a failure)

 

[SidewaysInto3rd]

CR Racing makes good looking anti stab kit too

 

[TRS]

I’m thinking this track really needs 4 wheels in the rear.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

CR Racing makes good looking anti stab kit too

Looks identical to wahl bros.
Same wheels.

 

[Teth-Air]

I’m thinking this track really needs 4 wheels in the rear.

The thought crossed my mind but then I realized that the 9" made my 19 reverse better in deep snow and the stock size, even with 4 wheels, still falls between the rods when the rod spacing is so far apart.

 

[damx]

I have zero vibration on my 3.5" avid drivers
( cat style ) and a doo 165, it does make a
droning noise at certain speed/ snow conditions.

 

[TRS]

damx,
Different lug pattern. Much better in my opinion.

Teth-air
With the drivers and wheels between the rails it makes the track balloon edge to edge. We proved this long ago by positioning idler wheels to improve hyfax longevity. The 6 tooth drivers don’t have enough contact when the track balloons and forces the track away from the drivers. There isn’t enough track/driver surface contact.
Another involuted driver(3) would help.
Avid’s stock replacement drivers support this theory.
The true extrovert driver helps because it spreads out the driver/track contact area which mitigates the balloon affect.
I believe 3 or 4 wheels in the rear and/or moving the 2 out board would help.
The rear wheel pic above, shows how much pressure is needed on the track to help alleviate a ratchet. 4 wheels would help spread the load along with procuring alignment
I also believe the new track has built in derailing issues. That stock drivers and track adjustments in its current state can’t rectify.

 

[b-litt]

I tried putting ice age 8” hellfire wheels in when the 2.75 was new and they wouldn’t fit. I know this track stretches a lot, but 8” wheels were too big when it was new. I went with the offset axle.

Trimming rails is very easy. I’ve ran ice age, wahl bros, and mtntek anti stabs. Mtntek is the strongest. I wouldn’t even consider wahl bros again. And there was no extra trimming involved with mtntek. Just cut rails to clear the extroverts and increase hole size for anti stab bolt.

 

[kylant]

I have zero vibration on my 3.5" avid drivers
( cat style ) and a doo 165, it does make a
droning noise at certain speed/ snow conditions.

you must have had the track narrowed? is it the LX300?

 

[kylant]

I tried putting ice age 8” hellfire wheels in when the 2.75 was new and they wouldn’t fit. I know this track stretches a lot, but 8” wheels were too big when it was new. I went with the offset axle.

Trimming rails is very easy. I’ve ran ice age, wahl bros, and mtntek anti stabs. Mtntek is the strongest. I wouldn’t even consider wahl bros again. And there was no extra trimming involved with mtntek. Just cut rails to clear the extroverts and increase hole size for anti stab bolt.

i noticed with the 8" ice age wheels with ice age rails and new track were very tight as well. I don't see how the billet wheels are any different.

the MTNTEK anti-stab kit instructions show clearancing both the inner rail and the anti-stab shaft. Did you not have to do this?

 

[kylant]

damx,
Different lug pattern. Much better in my opinion.

Teth-air
With the drivers and wheels between the rails it makes the track balloon edge to edge. We proved this long ago by positioning idler wheels to improve hyfax longevity. The 6 tooth drivers don’t have enough contact when the track balloons and forces the track away from the drivers. There isn’t enough track/driver surface contact.
Another involuted driver(3) would help.
Avid’s stock replacement drivers support this theory.
The true extrovert driver helps because it spreads out the driver/track contact area which mitigates the balloon affect.
I believe 3 or 4 wheels in the rear and/or moving the 2 out board would help.
The rear wheel pic above, shows how much pressure is needed on the track to help alleviate a ratchet. 4 wheels would help spread the load along with procuring alignment
I also believe the new track has built in derailing issues. That stock drivers and track adjustments in its current state can’t rectify.

I have the Avid center drive drivers with this new track. I don't have any ratcheting, but do have a more pronounced track shift than I have ever experienced.
I am running the track pretty tight., 1/2" at 10 lbs. Do you think I can get away with running it looser, but keep it from ratcheting?

 

[damx]

Its a ski doo 165, and yes I cut it

 

[b-litt]

i noticed with the 8" ice age wheels with ice age rails and new track were very tight as well. I don't see how the billet wheels are any different.

the MTNTEK anti-stab kit instructions show clearancing both the inner rail and the anti-stab shaft. Did you not have to do this?

The 8” would not fit with my 155 stock rails when the track was new. ?‍

No trimming on the inside of these rails or anti stab.