Matryx Tunnel Cut

[KhaosRipcord]

I have 2 non-slash 2022 non-slash Matryx 850 Khaos 155s. I want to shorten the tunnels down.

So far I've come up with 2 general solutions.

1. Skinz F35 rear Bumper with tunnel shortening/repair kit. This only shortens by 4.5inches and re-enforces the tunnel. No cutting.

2. Backwoods 155 Slash rear bumper then cut the tunnel by 6-7 inches.

I know since the slash models came out most folks just buy those. But for those that have shortened their Matryx tunnels what would you recommend? Yes I've searched the internet, yes I've watched the videos, yes I've searched this forum. Looking for some first person advice on these two options.

TIA

 

[damx]

Backwoods bumper and cut 5-6".

 

[madmax]

I have a slash and wanted a little shorter. Took the rivets out and took extension off. Cut off 4” off the tunnel and riveted the tapered extension back on. Used a T-Rex rear bumper and had to modify a little.

 

[jarred kale]

I have 2 non-slash 2022 non-slash Matryx 850 Khaos 155s. I want to shorten the Tutuapp 9Apps Showbox tunnels down.

So far I've come up with 2 general solutions.

1. Skinz F35 rear Bumper with tunnel shortening/repair kit. This only shortens by 4.5inches and re-enforces the tunnel. No cutting.

2. Backwoods 155 Slash rear bumper then cut the tunnel by 6-7 inches.

I know since the slash models came out most folks just buy those. But for those that have shortened their Matryx tunnels what would you recommend? Yes I've searched the internet, yes I've watched the videos, yes I've searched this forum. Looking for some first person advice on these two options.

TIA

Do you have some photos to it ?

 

[KhaosRipcord]

Photos? I haven't done it yet. I'm just asking for advice from those that may have.

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[KhaosRipcord]

Do you have some photos to it ?

Photos of what? I haven't done it yet just asking for advice from others who have.

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[KhaosRipcord]

So OP here. Just wanted to give an update in case anyone wants to do this in the future. I ended up cutting my 22 850 Khaos 155 to make it a Slash. I have a second one I will be doing this with as well.

Went with the backwoods 155 slash rear bumper kit then cut 5.5 inches of the tunnel and then put everything back together. To the untrained eye you can't even tell its not a stock slash.

A couple tips. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Take your time. Use a cutoff saw not a jigsaw or Sawzall. Measure, fit, measure, cut. The sleashnis exactly 5.5 inches shorter than a non slash. If you have a 155 and want to go even shorter buy the 146 slash bumper kit. All the holes and rivets line up perfect.

This rear end is solid as a rock now. I was really suprised how flimsy the oem bumper and tunnel setup was. A tunnel brace should be mandatory on this chassis IMO.

Anyway, here some pics. Enjoy the off-season sled porn.

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[NHRoadking]

That looks great! Nice job.

 

[r.c.rob]

Great job looks good.
Yea cuttoff wheel for shure you don't want a jig saw pulling on that thin aluminum.
Interested to see how this affects cooling. Are you running any snow flap?

 

[KhaosRipcord]

Great job looks good.
Yea cuttoff wheel for shure you don't want a jig saw pulling on that thin aluminum.
Interested to see how this affects cooling. Are you running any snow flap?

So I don't plan to run a snow flap for now. 1. The slash visor doesn't really do much anyway and the stock one would snag on the track I beleive. 2. I have ice scratchers and since this is originally a non-slash it has the longer cooler that goes 12 inches past the fuel tank vs the slash cooler that is the length of the fuel tank. We'll see how it works in real life next winter though and adjust from there. I have a buddy with a real slash that is cut even shorter than this and runs no snow flap. In normal snow conditions no issue. In icey hard pack it can become an issue.

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[KhaosRipcord]

Here is progress on number 2. Unfortunately, Backwoods sent the wrong size stainless rivets (too short) with this one so I wasn't able to finish last night.

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[NHRoadking]

Slash sleds in our group overheated a lot in low snow conditions. Removable snow flap would be great.

 

[KhaosRipcord]

Slash sleds in our group overheated a lot in low snow conditions. Removable snow flap would be great.

I actually reached out to roxspeedfx to inquire about a removable flap. They currently don't make one for matryx but are considering it. I gave them reasons why it would be a good product. If anyone has a line on a company that does I'd be interested.

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[madmax]

This is the one I would buy for the maytrx.

Everett Cool Flap

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

New Product Announcement! Everett Cool Flap

Introducing the all new Everett Cool Flap! Click here to order now! I have pre-orders set up and expect to ship out no later than 1/31/23. Additional cooling for hard pack trails, set up snow, and early/late season riding Averages of greater than 15F+ drop in engine temperatures Stores...

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Just go read the actual benefits of the “cool flap” first. ??

 

[KhaosRipcord]

This is the one I would buy for the maytrx.

Everett Cool Flap

Meh. Not impressed. I'm thinking more something that can be easily removed altogether and stowed. Majority of riding I wouldn't need one at all.

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[NiklasE]

Im going to cut my tunnel also, what size of rivets is best to use when you put the tail of the tunnel back to the tunnel?

 

[KhaosRipcord]

Im going to cut my tunnel also, what size of rivets is best to use when you put the tail of the tunnel back to the tunnel?

For those I used 3/16"×1/2" stainless if I recall. A few of them needed backer washers since the holes got a little bigger when i drilled them out. For the 2 larger black rivets that hold the tail light bracket on I used large black 3/16"×3/4" rivets with backer washers (actually reused the old original rivet heads for this). For reconnecting the aluminum wiring bracket to the bottom I used aluminum rivets size 3/16"×3x8" I believe. The backwoods bumpers came with their own rivet kit but for some reason one of the 2 kits I did had the wrong length stainless rivets and had to order the correct ones.

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[madmax]

I just used aluminum rivets on everything. Stainless are a not hear as easy to get out if you need to.

 

[KhaosRipcord]

I just used aluminum rivets on everything. Stainless are a not hear as easy to get out if you need to.

Curious why you would need to get them out again? My thought process with stainless was 1. It's technically a structural connection. 2. The stock ones on the tail are not aluminum either (brass or steal alloy of some sort I think). 3. The rivets on that section of the backwoods bumper are stainless as well.

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