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Gonna buy a clutch kit for my new 850 which are most people running looking for reviews
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been thinking about one as well, but keep asking if the stock clutching is really that bad?
many kits out there TRS has a fantastic price for what you are getting..
slp is just a flyweight change and primary spring change, they actually say the stock helix is fine, they could have added a helix into the kit to make more $$ but didn't..
indydan has a great rep, but im not crazy on the magnet weights for tuning,
Best clutching i had on my doo was just simply changing flyweights to SHR's which are similar to the slp magnums.
But in my area i never hear about poos and blown belts, so spending upwards of 400-500 might not be needed?
main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.
I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.
it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)
main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.
I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.
it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)
I always thought it was cool how MDS offered a money back guarantee.
Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much.View attachment 333108View attachment 333109View attachment 333110View attachment 333110View attachment 333111View attachment 333112
Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much.
This is huge even with the mediocre stock clutching. I went with indy specialty, love the adjustable weights. Not so much to keep playing with it but you can add/remove to get your target rpm dialed in and leave it if you ride the same areas. Even different areas are easy enough to adjust for. Night and day difference from stock > TRS aligned stock > TRS alignment + IS full mtn kit.Regardless of what you run for clutching, make sure to align per TRS spec and method. This will reduce heat/fade/wear on all clutch components regardless of whose kit your running. One of the best changes I've ever made to a sled.
For those that need an answer to this question. Bar available at TRS performance and Indy SpecialitiesWhat is the TRS clutch alignment method? Where can I research it? Just aligning with their alignment tool?