• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

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    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

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    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Indy Specialties or MDS clutch kit

DITCHBANGER

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Nov 26, 2007
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been thinking about one as well, but keep asking if the stock clutching is really that bad?
many kits out there TRS has a fantastic price for what you are getting..
slp is just a flyweight change and primary spring change, they actually say the stock helix is fine, they could have added a helix into the kit to make more $$ but didn't..
indydan has a great rep, but im not crazy on the magnet weights for tuning,

Best clutching i had on my doo was just simply changing flyweights to SHR's which are similar to the slp magnums.

But in my area i never hear about poos and blown belts, so spending upwards of 400-500 might not be needed?
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Ak
been thinking about one as well, but keep asking if the stock clutching is really that bad?
many kits out there TRS has a fantastic price for what you are getting..
slp is just a flyweight change and primary spring change, they actually say the stock helix is fine, they could have added a helix into the kit to make more $$ but didn't..
indydan has a great rep, but im not crazy on the magnet weights for tuning,

Best clutching i had on my doo was just simply changing flyweights to SHR's which are similar to the slp magnums.

But in my area i never hear about poos and blown belts, so spending upwards of 400-500 might not be needed?
main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.

I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.

it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)
 

live2beel

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Nov 26, 2007
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main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.

I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.

it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)
main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.

I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.

it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)

I always thought it was cool how MDS offered a money back guarantee.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Ak
I always thought it was cool how MDS offered a money back guarantee.
yep,


pretty low risk actually.

anyone can improve certain parts of the shift and say it’s “better”

not everyone can improve across the board in all conditions. (TRS and indy dan are the only ones I know of)
 

Wheel House Motorsports

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Regardless of what you run for clutching, make sure to align per TRS spec and method. This will reduce heat/fade/wear on all clutch components regardless of whose kit your running. One of the best changes I've ever made to a sled.
 

cascadesnowjunky

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From my experience all sleds run a bit different so clutch kits are a waste of money. They are built for the masses and do not work on all machines or fit every riding style. I prefer to work from stock until I achieve what makes the machine perform best and get the power to the ground where I want it. I believe most will get you close but will still require some fine tuning. I know I will probably get hazed for this comment by all the koolaid drinkers but flame away I can take it.
 
Dec 4, 2010
22
15
3
Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much. IMG_0416 (1).jpg IMG_0417 (1).jpg IMG_0418 (1).jpg IMG_0418 (1).jpg IMG_0419 (1).jpg IMG_0421 (1).jpg
 
Feb 12, 2010
145
28
28
And what were the results? Best set up?

Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much. View attachment 333108 View attachment 333109 View attachment 333110 View attachment 333110 View attachment 333111 View attachment 333112
 

DITCHBANGER

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I went with indydan and trs alignment. 1300 miles barely any clutch heat. Belt looks new and sled rips.
 

TRS

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Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much.
From TRS
The comparison doesn’t reflect the weights true influence.
The weights should be installed on a pin and then the heel set on a flat surface. This is how the weight rests in your primary clutch.
With this method, you will realize each weights tuck under compared to stock along with the difference in roller contact.
Roller contact reflects how close your spider is in relation to your moveable sheave. This has a relation to belt gripping force off idle.
Here are some examples. Thanks dheida6 for posting. 79DC7637-8384-4726-8EC6-B2069308DF58.jpeg ED00C7C0-CBA5-4EC6-BB80-9EAA32BB059F.jpeg 79DC7637-8384-4726-8EC6-B2069308DF58.jpeg ED00C7C0-CBA5-4EC6-BB80-9EAA32BB059F.jpeg
 
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