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Indy Specialties or MDS clutch kit

DITCHBANGER

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Nov 26, 2007
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been thinking about one as well, but keep asking if the stock clutching is really that bad?
many kits out there TRS has a fantastic price for what you are getting..
slp is just a flyweight change and primary spring change, they actually say the stock helix is fine, they could have added a helix into the kit to make more $$ but didn't..
indydan has a great rep, but im not crazy on the magnet weights for tuning,

Best clutching i had on my doo was just simply changing flyweights to SHR's which are similar to the slp magnums.

But in my area i never hear about poos and blown belts, so spending upwards of 400-500 might not be needed?
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Oct 5, 2010
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……..
been thinking about one as well, but keep asking if the stock clutching is really that bad?
many kits out there TRS has a fantastic price for what you are getting..
slp is just a flyweight change and primary spring change, they actually say the stock helix is fine, they could have added a helix into the kit to make more $$ but didn't..
indydan has a great rep, but im not crazy on the magnet weights for tuning,

Best clutching i had on my doo was just simply changing flyweights to SHR's which are similar to the slp magnums.

But in my area i never hear about poos and blown belts, so spending upwards of 400-500 might not be needed?

main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.

I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.

it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)
 

live2beel

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main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.

I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.

it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)
main difference I’ve seen from SLP magnum weights (carls cycle copy clutching) to indy dan clutching Is consistent rpm, higher track speed and less heat.

I don’t like the loss of convenience with the magnets either but the ability to fine tune the shift “feel” or “character” is huge when riding style and elevation changes come into play.

it’s head and shoulders better than stock clutching.
(My experience is with the 800ho)


I always thought it was cool how MDS offered a money back guarantee.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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……..
I always thought it was cool how MDS offered a money back guarantee.

yep,


pretty low risk actually.

anyone can improve certain parts of the shift and say it’s “better”

not everyone can improve across the board in all conditions. (TRS and indy dan are the only ones I know of)
 

Wheel House Motorsports

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Regardless of what you run for clutching, make sure to align per TRS spec and method. This will reduce heat/fade/wear on all clutch components regardless of whose kit your running. One of the best changes I've ever made to a sled.
 

cascadesnowjunky

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Kennewick WA
From my experience all sleds run a bit different so clutch kits are a waste of money. They are built for the masses and do not work on all machines or fit every riding style. I prefer to work from stock until I achieve what makes the machine perform best and get the power to the ground where I want it. I believe most will get you close but will still require some fine tuning. I know I will probably get hazed for this comment by all the koolaid drinkers but flame away I can take it.
 
D
Dec 4, 2010
24
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3
Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much.IMG_0416 (1).jpgIMG_0417 (1).jpgIMG_0418 (1).jpgIMG_0418 (1).jpgIMG_0419 (1).jpgIMG_0421 (1).jpg
 
B
Feb 12, 2010
145
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28
And what were the results? Best set up?

Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much.View attachment 333108View attachment 333109View attachment 333110View attachment 333110View attachment 333111View attachment 333112
 

DITCHBANGER

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Nov 26, 2007
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I went with indydan and trs alignment. 1300 miles barely any clutch heat. Belt looks new and sled rips.
 

TRS

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Each set up different and it depends upon your clutching "philosophy" . I attached four different weight profiles that are all aligned at the tip of the weight. Starting from the bottom is the MDS weight, the second from the bottom is a belly buster followed by a Polaris 10 series and finally a TRS/Lightning weight. The Belly Buster, Polaris and TRS are similar in profile but very different in weight distribution. The MDS is a much different profile altogether. For example, the TRS set up is 68 grams, stock primary spring and and a progressive secondary helix with a 125-175 secondary spring. The MDS set up goes another direction with 70.8 grams, a 120-340 primary spring, stock secondary 42 degree helix and a 160-240 secondary spring. Carls sticks with the stock 10 series weights but a 140-330 primary spring and the same helix they have been putting in the pros since 2011. These set ups are for Southern Idaho snow conditions running from about 6,000-9,000 ft. I have the MDS 850 and TRS 850 set ups sitting on my bench and can pull my old Carl's secondary helix from my Pro if I want to try that combination also. I'm going to try both the TRS and MDS out on my new 163, 2.6. I also have a TKI belt drive with the 2.52 pulley ratio that I will be installing as I like my sleds geared low. With the MDS and TRS set up, you have two different clutching theories from two different guys. Having briefly spoken to both of them, they are extremely friendly and knowledgeable so if you have questions, call or email them. Clutching is like trucks, beer and women. They all cost time and money so find one you like and settle on it, otherwise its going to drive you crazy and you won't go sledding much.

From TRS
The comparison doesn’t reflect the weights true influence.
The weights should be installed on a pin and then the heel set on a flat surface. This is how the weight rests in your primary clutch.
With this method, you will realize each weights tuck under compared to stock along with the difference in roller contact.
Roller contact reflects how close your spider is in relation to your moveable sheave. This has a relation to belt gripping force off idle.
Here are some examples. Thanks dheida6 for posting. 79DC7637-8384-4726-8EC6-B2069308DF58.jpegED00C7C0-CBA5-4EC6-BB80-9EAA32BB059F.jpeg79DC7637-8384-4726-8EC6-B2069308DF58.jpegED00C7C0-CBA5-4EC6-BB80-9EAA32BB059F.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

likkerpig

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Nov 28, 2007
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Regardless of what you run for clutching, make sure to align per TRS spec and method. This will reduce heat/fade/wear on all clutch components regardless of whose kit your running. One of the best changes I've ever made to a sled.
This is huge even with the mediocre stock clutching. I went with indy specialty, love the adjustable weights. Not so much to keep playing with it but you can add/remove to get your target rpm dialed in and leave it if you ride the same areas. Even different areas are easy enough to adjust for. Night and day difference from stock > TRS aligned stock > TRS alignment + IS full mtn kit.
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
1,512
810
113
Elko, NV.
Experimenting and finding the right variable 2-angle helix can save you a ton of warm day/ springtime headaches. When air density drops you can simply run on the couple degree shallower helix in an effort at getting an adequate backshift back, it takes about 5 minutes to change on the mountain.
 
R
Apr 1, 2018
36
6
8
I've got the Indy S full mtn kit and aligned via TRS alignment bar. I ride 6k-9k in CA my weights were setup 3-2-0-1. Engagement rpm feels kinda high and am only able to hit 7,900-8k rpm max. I changed weights to 3-1-1-0. Removing 1 magnet and moving up one position. Sound like a good setup to try? If this doesn't do it I'll try 3-2-0-0 next.
 
D
Dec 4, 2010
24
21
3
After a couple of years of playing with the various set ups (Rooster weights, MDS, TRS) here are my observations. Bear in mind I have a 2020 163, 2.6 track with a TKI belt drive and 27/62 pulleys. First, align your clutches as recommended by Tony (TRS). Second, set proper belt to sheave clearance with a new belt (about .020) regardless of which weights you use (as this will change depending on the type of weight you use. Third, make sure your target RPM at elevation is 8300-8400, at 8200 it feels like you leave too much on the table.
1. Roosters are nice for adjustability...
2. MDS is a great product and his service is awesome. A definite improvement over stock and they really load the motor down low. The as delivered set up was dead on for my elevation in Southern Idaho. Extremely happy with the set up (primary spring, secondary spring and adjustable weights) and the service. If I had another 850 I would put it in that sled and leave well enough alone, MDS is a solid set up.
3. TRS takes more time to set up properly as you will need to re-shim the spider to set proper belt to sheave clearance. The TRS system pushes hard throughout, but definitely pushes harder on the top end. It feels like it has an overdrive compared to the other set ups I have tried, the secondary set up is where this set up has an edge over other set ups I have tried. Tony's service and products are top notch. I am currently running the TRS set up and haven't found a reason to change.
 

indydan

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www.indyspecialty.com
I don‘t want this to sound like a stupid sales pitch - Just have to point out that a Turbo 2 stroke needs some tip weigh down low / or under the pin center line. To give good throttle response. Not knocking anyones kits everyone likes what they like….. sometimes even if it’s wrong.

The reason Indy Specialty builds more different weights then any other company is because of that very reason.


In Turbo charged sled, Thru the entire shift travel…… Dead stop to wide open throttle. No conventional shaped clutch weight will work as good as a Indy Specialty Turbo 3 or a MDS weight. ( The shape doesn’t allow it )

it’s simply not possible because in order to get a conventional shaped weight heavy enough to clamp a stock OEM belt at full boost the simply gains to much mass just forward of the pin and low end throttle response suffers. Low-end Throttle response should not be confused with belt slip.

the Indy Specialty Turbo 3 is the most copied weight shape for a turbo there is. ( At least attempted copy ) Silber and Boondocker are the most embarrassing attempts for a few reasons. And to think Boondocker use to Sue everyone who came up with any idea for a turbo. A little Arrogant, think they owned the turbo world. I wonder how it’s working out to Sue Polaris and Ski-doo. ? ? Thank the heavens above for the Polaris Boost and the Ski Doo Turbo

Our kits have a 30 day money back guarantee ( If not better then anything your have ever run send it back with a copy of the invoice of the kit you liked better. ) and we will give you a full refund.

Drive clutch, clutch face wear is also reduced to almost nothing with a Turbo 3

Keep in mind, Just because a turbo type weight hooks the belt really hard does not mean everyone with like the feel of that kind of belt grip

Dan
 
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