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Custom built tunnel. Budget Nytro build

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Hey guys, this is my first time posting on so we'll see how it goes. Thought I'd share my Nytro project with you.

Background: Im a 26 y/o CNC machinist and I also dabble a bit in fabricating and welding. Last year I traded my Pro RMK for a beat up nytro plus enough cash to make the deal worth it. I really just needed the money because I was getting married in a couple months..

It was originally a short track that had been extended to a 153. The early model skinz seat destroyed the tunnel because the tabs weren't big enough and it caved in. Still a little upset with skinz who stopped returning my emails regarding this!

Any ways, long story short I decided to try to design and build my own tunnel. Took a few pics along the way.

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Heres the design I came up with after countless hours of measuring and redesiging with the help of a drafter I work with.
I was thinking (at the time) that maybe I should have a company name in case I ever wanted to sell one. So i came up with Rider Designs. Doubt i'll ever go down that road tho.

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My boss is pretty cool and I'm the only machinist at our shop so I pretty much have whatever i need at my disposal. I used a HAAS CNC router for cutting the tunnel out. I wrote a program and used a 2 inch 3m buffing pad to put the polished look on the alum. We also have a CNC accupress here so i could bend up all the parts i made. the tunnel itself is made out of .100 thick alum and that bent pretty well. The tunnel/ bumper supports didnt fare so well tho! My first ones i made out of 1/4" thick 6061 alum that snapped as soon as i tried to bend them. I had to remake them out of 3/16" 5052 sheet alum.

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It was time to bring it home and test fit and drill all the rest of the holes needed before powdercoat. I basically had to build the entire thing and then disassemble it again. The hole pattern yamaha uses to mount the tunnel to the bulk head makes no sense whatsoever so i decided instead of trying to measure them out and cut them in my machine i would instead just mount the tunnel and drill the holes in then which worked out pretty well. Im glad i saw Chris's post about installing his airframe running boards. That opened my eyes to clecos!!! Couldnt have done this project without them.

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I spent a TON of time on here and totallyamaha trying to figure out what all needs to be done to these sleds. Found some good info on gusseting the subframe. I took some measurements and made my own. Unfortunately all those pics are on my broken phone along with soo many more. Heres a shot of the gusseted and powdercoated subframe with the tunnel mounted for the first time.

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I had the whole summer to look for parts and learn as much info as i could. I turbo everything that i can and i usually do all my own work, (mainly because im too cheap always broke!) but I found a used 200 hp Push Turbo kit for $1800 that i couldnt pass up. it only had 10 hours on it. Dont tell my wife tho! The stock turbo bracket that comes with the push turbo is hideously ugly and doesnt work with my skinz seat so i had to design my own that fits perfectly hidden under the tunnel. looks really clean
I powdercoated the tunnel transparent black so you can still see the polish marks under it. Everything else is either red or white.

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I dont have an extra $500 to buy running boards and they wouldnt fit my custom tunnel anyways so i built my own. used 1" od tubing for the outside and 3/4" for the cross bars. They turned out pretty good but pulled and warped just a tad from welding.

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m8magicandmystery

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I plan on working on it all weekend. Im hoping to get it on the snowmobile stand by sunday. we will see how it goes! wish me luck, Ive already got probably over 250 hours into this thing.

and a gal soon to marry...she must be real understanding and not the jealous type


great looking build
 
Float PSI?

I got less done than i was hoping for this weekend. Found some issues that im going to have to address.

I have fox floats in my timbersled skid, anyone know what I should roughly be running for PSI in them?
I weigh about 170 lbs.

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From the beginning i was curious if the rear of the tunnel would be strong enough. i put the bumper on this weekend and found out that its definitely not going to be sturdy enough.. Im afraid to pick it up the way it is now. I'm planning on running some extruded aluminum angle iron along the inside to stiffen it up.

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Bar Risers

Got started on m bars last night. I made my own steering relocator out of billet alum. I'm not running a oilite bushing like some but i did put a grease zerk in it. Since i moved the bar forward, i wanted to bring the bars a little back towards me to keep a good arm length so i designed some bar risers that move them back 1 inch
Im running Kore mtn bike handlebars with a 10 degree sweep. the problem with going to a bike bar is that they are meant to be held on with a stem so the clamping surface is much narrower than tradititional bars. I offset the bar risers in 3/4 of an inch to make up for this.

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TPS delete ?? billet throttle block

So i made a billet throttle block to get rid of the outrageously big plastic block that yamaha uses. Im going with a tether instead of the stock kill switch.

Does anyone know how to delete the TPS? can you just connect the wires together?
Thanks for any input

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jrusher

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Dec 1, 2007
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Edmonton
So i made a billet throttle block to get rid of the outrageously big plastic block that yamaha uses. Im going with a tether instead of the stock kill switch.

Does anyone know how to delete the TPS? can you just connect the wires together?
Thanks for any input

Connect them together.. Had to do this one time in back country on a friends nytro, i was going to do it on mine as well but never got around to do it..
 
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