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Changing drivers, 9 tooth to 7 tooth

C

cey800

New member
Want to up size my current track 159"x2" to 162x2.5". I'm currently using 9 tooth 2.25 pitch anti-ratchets and was recommended to change to a 7 tooth 3.0 pitch. How much smaller is the 7 tooth and will this affect my gearing and clutching. This is coming about because I'm planning on installing a CR racing tunnel on an '04 Edge and want a larger track. Any suggestions or thoughts? Help please!!!
 
what I would do is go to a 166 2.4 track. I put 7 tooth 3 pitch drivers on my 03 escape and found that they like to bind and unless you do a drop it would rub a bit on the tunnel. as far as the difference all you have to do is multiply 2.52x9=22.68 inches around and the 3.0x7=21 inches around so they are close. feel free to pm me with any ? Rodger
 
Call Curt at Fastrax 253-848-0908. I just bought one. Curt is great to work with and will answer your questions.
 
Want to up size my current track 159"x2" to 162x2.5". I'm currently using 9 tooth 2.25 pitch anti-ratchets and was recommended to change to a 7 tooth 3.0 pitch. How much smaller is the 7 tooth and will this affect my gearing and clutching. This is coming about because I'm planning on installing a CR racing tunnel on an '04 Edge and want a larger track. Any suggestions or thoughts? Help please!!!

The math works like this. Pitch x the number of teeth / pi = diameter. For example 2.25x9/3.14159=6.4 compared to 6.7 for the 7 tooth. You will have about 5% taller gearing with the change.

This is how it all works...There are bars across the track (molded in) on intervals equal the to the pitch of the track. They provide stiffness across the track so it does not flex due to driver torque, or the force the drivers put on the track. The space from tooth to tooth on the driver, also called the pitch, has to match the track...Therefore, the number of teeth x the pitch will be the circumference of the driver...circumference divided by pi is the diameter from high school geometry. Viola...now you never have to ask!

Make sure you have a 2.25 pitch track...04 polaris come with 2.52 pitch...that would mean almost 8% shorter gearing with the change. A lot of mountain riders gear down anyway..you might like the change.

Karl
 
The most common pitch sizes are 2.52 and 3.0. You are probably running a 2.52.

If you do switch to a 3.0 pitch, I would recommend putting on an anti-stab kit. With it being a larger pitch, it has larger holes in the track and if you run a loose track, it has a better chance of catching on your rail tips. If it catches too hard it will stab through and you WILL come to a very violent stop (speaking from experience) and you will end up buying an new track and most likely a new skid as well.

Just a little food for thought. $75 for an anti-stab kit is cheap insurance. Plus it reduces wear on your track and sliderails.
 
Thanks everyone, yes my bad, the pitch is a 2.52. And I did install a anti-stab kit when I trimmed the rails to accept the extroverts. Does anyone make a 159x2.5 track or will I need to go longer?
 
Camoplast makes a 3 pitch 2.5" lug in the Challenger Extreme. Available in 15" and 16" wide. The bad deal is that they only have it in 144, 150, 156, 162 and 174" lengths. No 159". A friend of mine put a 162 on his 159 by going with a 10" big wheel kit from Mountain Machine Performance.

I put the Challenger Extreme 144X16X2.5 on my mod and it is an awesome track. I would definetly recommend it.

Boone

http://www.mountainmachines.com
 
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I put 7 tooth 3.0 on an 03 edge the gearing change in a mtn sled is a welcome change over stock and conbined the ability to run a looser track was a nice improvmet from stock .its one of the best bang for the buck mods IMO
 
Run a Holz 5/8 drop, U-cooler, and a Holz Universal Big Wheel kit, 19/42 gears and go!
 
I went from 9t 2.52p to a 7t 3p and did not like the difference one bit. Sled didn't roll, didn't like it. I went to a 8t 3p(I had the room, wanted the extra clearance) totally different from the 7t. I also changed my gearing to compensate for the gearing changes both times. No going back to the 7t. If I was doing it again I wouldn't think twice about going 7t again. But, if your short on room, 7t might be your only option.
 
I found that it all depends on the type of drivers.

When I bought my sled, the guy put a162 on with WAHL drivers. It made popping noises, stabbed, and plucked out clips left and right.

Changing over to AVID drivers mads a world of difference.

Having a 7 tooth 3 pitch is like having an 8.3@ 252 pitch. In all reality, a larger driver makes a big difference, but if you are not into dropping and rolling, the 7 tooth will work ok. I know my zx rolled well with 9 tooth@252, almost too well, I had to put the parking brake on it all the time, even on low angles.
 
I put a 2.5 Extreme on mine last summer and went with a 7 tooth 3.0 pitch to get more clearance up front. No rubbing and plenty of room. It depends on the type of riding you do, I prefer the lower gearing so the 7 tooth works great. (but your top speed is about 90) If you want to keep the gearing you have, and still need the clearance; go with the 7 tooth and re-gear your chain case. I ran the Whal Brothers extros last year and they still look good, no alignment problems at all.

Another interesting thought is to do a set back, I did that on my 900 cat. You could sneek a 162 track on 159 rails, and it gives you clearance from your rail tips to the extros. Cons to doing this is you have to re-tune your suspension springs due to the change in telemetry.
 
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