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BULLSH** POLARIS (ELECTRIC RELAYS IN HARNESS GO BAD FROM WATER INTRUSION)

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B
Dec 17, 2016
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Had the relay for the Display/Exhaust Valves fail on me yesterday. Wasn't carrying spares but Perk was. (Thanks man!)

I had sealed them first thing last season and they finally bit the dust.

Anyway, I'm trying to find replacement spares and everyone is out of stock. The ONLY place I can find any (That don't have insane shipping costs of 40+ for 10 ) is the Panasonic CM1a-R-12V from mouser.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMt98bArVJter7hPxRQf1tRZy54uMJQv4hA=

I know SPST will work, but I can't find anything saying guys have ordered/used this particular part. They are 2x the Chinese version so before I order a bunch, I want to make sure they are OKAY.

This is the resistor sealed version.



Which relay controls the display/exhaust valves. Had this problem yesterday, switched my relays around and still the same problem.


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matchrocket

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Mar 2, 2016
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Which relay controls the display/exhaust valves. Had this problem yesterday, switched my relays around and still the same problem.


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Of the two by the bulkhead / pipe, one of them had a jumper wire on the bottom of the block the relay plugs into. Just a wire that loops back. That on controls the EV / Display.

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B
Dec 17, 2016
50
17
8
30
Ya I know. . . That's why I used normal hardening silicone to seal the bottom of the bases where the pins go in. . The relays are sealed so I believe too it's the pins in the bases getting corrosion on them. . . See it all the time. Actually an electrician so relays/bases are no new thing to me haha.

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Water will still intrude between the relay and the base and get on the contacts/in the connector


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S

Snopro_69

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Mar 25, 2008
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Yuppers what he said. . And also lay the relays on the up angle and put a bit of liquid electrical tape around the "high" side of the relay between the base and relay. . . Then water can still get out the bottom but shouldn't get in easy. Almost 1000 miles on it now in all BC pow and no issues so far

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B
Dec 17, 2016
50
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8
30
That's why you put dialectric grease in plug before you push the relays in

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Grease helps but water will still get in. Happened to mine. I like the liquid electrical tape from the relay to the base.


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C
Apr 17, 2013
182
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alberta
I Also put a bag on the connectors by the diagnostic connector

Have all of this on my build but would prib get crap if I posted the link on here to HCS


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matchrocket

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Mar 2, 2016
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I Also put a bag on the connectors by the diagnostic connector

Have all of this on my build but would prib get crap if I posted the link on here to HCS


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Be too bad if you did. Just got a bag to do the same thing to mine.

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TRS

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Found this on the internet. Clears up when you click on it.
Look at the temp rating and cycle duty of the stock relay.
 

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mountainhorse

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Tony keeps his ear on the rail !

Nice find Tony...

Have you put your hands on these GEI relays?

Good price on them as well.

Although the "send check or MO" harkens back to my days of bustin tires at Monkey-Wards !
He has paypal too :face-icon-small-win

I wonder if he's ready for this kind of sales-traffic?? (bwa ha ha)



GEI AR4-012-C11
SPECIFICATIONS

Min. Coil Pull-in Voltage: 7.2 VDC
Coil Drop-out Voltage: 1.2 VDC
Coil Resistance: 96 Ohms
Coil Current: 124 ma.
Terminals 30 & 87 Resistive Load: 25 A
Terminal 87a Resistive Load: 20 A
Contact Time: <10 ms.
Release Time: <7 ms.
Insulation Resistance: Min. 100 MOhm @ 500 VDC
Dielectric Strength: 500 VAC / one minute
Mechanical Life: 10,000,000 cycles
Electrical Life: 100,000 cycles at rated load
Vibration Resistance: 10-40 Hz
Shock Resistance: Approx. 10g.
Operating Temperature: -40° C to +85° C
Relative Humidity: 20% to 85%
Contact Material: Silver Alloy
Cover Color: Black (w/circuit diagram)
Relay Manufactured in China
This GEI AR4-012-C11 relay replaces 4 or 5 terminal relays used in Moto Guzzi, Ducati, Big Dog and other bikes, Cub Cadet and CaseIH MX Magnum tractors, and many other applications.

It is a direct replacement for:
Bitron B047E 46520411-232006 & 232008
Borg-Warner (BWD) R3223
BMW 61 36 1 393 412 & 61 36 1 393 415
Bosch 0-332-207-307
Ducati 541.4.003.1A & 541.4.010.1A
Ford F57B-14B192-AA
Hella 4RD 931 524-02
Hongfa HFV6 012ZS-TR & 012HS-TR
NAIS ACM13221 & ACM33221
NHG NVFMCZ20 & NVFMCZ25
Omron G8HN-1A2T & G8HN-1C2T
Siemens V23073 & V23074
Song Chuan 871-1C-S-R1-12VDC
Tyco A1001-A402 & A1001-A403
Zettler AZ988-1CT-12DC1R(201)

These relays are epoxy sealed to preclude entry of moisture, dust and other contaminants.

Price is $4.90 for 1 relay, $7.45 for 2 relays, and $3.30 each for 3 or more. Price includes shipping within the USA. Send check or money order to:

DesignTech Engineering, LLC.
P.O. Box 293
Beaver Dam, WI 53916


E-mail us for faster service, questions, price quotes for shipping outside the USA and/or payment via PayPal.
[SIZE="4"]dan@dpguzzi.com[/SIZE]
relaygei.gif








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TRS

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Nice find Tony...

Have you put your hands on these GEI relays?

Good price on them as well.

Although the "send check or MO" harkens back to my days of bustin tires at Monkey-Wards !
He has paypal too :face-icon-small-win

I wonder if he's ready for this kind of sales-traffic?? (bwa ha ha)





relaygei.gif








.

Eric,
I haven’t.
I used the 871 cross reference to pickup one from NAPA. It was spendy, but NAPA had one.
 

LoudHandle

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Those last two posts are a prime example of why the Polaris electrical sucks. They are Built by cheap bastards for cheap bastards! If they would just raise their aim a little bit the electrical would no longer be the Achilles heal it is!
 

Gunk

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just had my relay issues, at least the sled starts and runs, but not much fun. i have about 900 miles on and i did drowned it once, replaced all three relays and works fine for now. i will say i found a wire rubbed bare close to the top relays , i would recomend checking your harness for tight or loose spots
 

richracer1

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I’m leaning toward the Bosch.
Spec for Ferrari, Rolls, Mercedes, JD, MF, Case.

As am I. I already bought 3 of them to install this summer....

In the mean time, I have a bunch of the Panasonic CM1 relays just in case I or one of the other Axys rides have issues. So far my OEM relays are working just fine and I've never experienced any kind of RPM/power losses on my '16 Pro-RMK 163.
 

mountainhorse

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Sealed baby!


Made in Germany Bosch...and made in China Bosch... both are available... and not necessarily the same thing.

I've not seen a sealed 'plug/play' Bosch version to replace the Song Chuan 871's.

The Japanese made Panasonic sealed relay I mentioned in previous posts is as good or better than German-Bosch.... and certainly better than the Song-Chuan brand.

As a note: The Mercedes E-class that I rented in Switzerland last year had some Song-Chuan relays in it... global reality eh?

The sealed Bosch-German or Hella-German are nice relays... for sure... beyond the scope of most owners to install correctly... But for those with skills and tools... anything is possible.

Brent, funny on the comment about "for cheap bastards" :face-icon-small-dis... when most on here accuse me of overbuilding things... LOL (seriously).


My favorite method for this would be a completely sealed relay enclosure... with some fuses in the block as well. That is the way to go... and use solid-state relay if you want it to be the utmost in reliability.

Something like this littelfuse unit which has a silicone seal on the cover and in all of the wire inlets.

picture.php


Arctic cat has gone with a sealed relay enclosure on their sled already.


BUT... For most, installing new relays, cleaning the contacts and using dielectric grease.. while mounting the relays upright so that the connector socket does not accumulate water will go a LONG way towards preventing problems without reinventing the wheel or risking warranty loss.

Hopefully a better solution is reached by Polaris for future sleds.



To clarify...the Bosch sealed, waterproof relay and connector I'm referring to in my post above would require modification/cut of the harness... something that most would not do, understandably. This, I believe is the one that P.I. Should be using in the harness in the first place. Cutting or modding your harness will, most likely void the warranty on your sled... to be clear.


This is the one that I would use... Hella-Germany, with INDIVIDUAL sealed wires and a seal/terminal locking device.
picture.php


MUCH better than this one with the wire-group seal on the bottom... which leaks when the wires are pulled a little to the side.
This is a Delphi product.
picture.php



The others are plug and play...but need to have the resistance of the coil confirmed except for the Song-Chuan from mouser.


The one from Mouser, mfg'd by Song Chuan is the EXACT same relay that is used by Polaris Industries.... it is NOT a substitute or a cross reference... it is the same OEM part with the same OEM part number as shown in the photo of the polaris harness from Sage Crusher above.... but has a MUCH lower price-mark-up ....

The Song-Chauan 871-1C-S-R1-12VDC relays from Mouser are so inexpensive that I'd buy 10 of them if it were me.

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey871-1C-S-R1-12VDC

Mouser only has 360 of them in stock... and that will dwindle fast if we are buying them 10 at a time.







.
 
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richracer1

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To clarify my previous reply, I have 3 of the Hella-Germany relays that will get wired in this summer. I figure it's going to be a time consuming project to get them wired in and mounted at a location to protect them as best I can. The pin/blade locations on these differ from the plug-n-play relays.
 
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