• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

BULLSH** POLARIS (ELECTRIC RELAYS IN HARNESS GO BAD FROM WATER INTRUSION)

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mountainhorse

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To clarify my previous reply, I have 3 of the Hella-Germany relays that will get wired in this summer. I figure it's going to be a time consuming project to get them wired in and mounted at a location to protect them as best I can. The pin/blade locations on these differ from the plug-n-play relays.


Just make sure that the coil resistance and bridge-resistor are the same... and that it uses a resistor and not a diode across the coil terminals.

Please keep us in the loop with your photos! :camera:






.
 

richracer1

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Just make sure that the coil resistance and bridge-resistor are the same... and that it uses a resistor and not a diode across the coil terminals.

Please keep us in the loop with your photos! :camera:


.

The Hella-Germany 4RD 931 401 -05/-08 has a coil resistance of 76 ohm

The Panasonic CM1 R 12V has a coil resistance of 83 ohm
 

Tewstroke

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I've ordered the Panasonic relays.
CM1-R-12V Panasonic Electronic Components
Relays 12VDC 96Ohm 35(NO)/20(NC)A SPDT(20mm 15mm 33mm) Plug-In A

$2.77 each from Onlinecomponents.com

Does anyone see any compatibility issues with these?

Tewstroke
 
Feb 3, 2018
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I've ordered the Panasonic relays.
CM1-R-12V Panasonic Electronic Components
Relays 12VDC 96Ohm 35(NO)/20(NC)A SPDT(20mm 15mm 33mm) Plug-In A

$2.77 each from Onlinecomponents.com

Does anyone see any compatibility issues with these?

Tewstroke

I changed all 5 stock relays out with CM1-R-12 s this week. Used dielectric grease on edge of relay and plugged into seal base to relay connection. Put grease on underside of base and taped up to seal out moisture.

Test rode 60 miles.

Ran perfect.

2 relays are down by battery.
2 by belt storage.
1 in velcro pouch behind primary.

I also did EGR connection with grease and tape.

Also did battery terminals and connections.

Dash plug got greased.

Simple preventions. My cost was $20 for 5 relays.
 

richracer1

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Here are the 2 relay connectors by the pipe that I cleaned and sealed with liquid electrical tape. I also made a "fancy" terminal" cleaner to get any corrosion off the terminals inside the connector. I then sprayed them with CRC electrical connector cleaner/protector to get an remaining crap out of the terminals.



 

richracer1

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Playing around with a removed OEM Song Chuan relay, if found something interesting. The 3 smaller terminals of the resistor seem to be aluminum and the 2 larger terminals are steel (magnetic) but appear to be coated/chromed.

After a little interweb searching it appears that the brass (the terminal in the harness connector) does not like to be around steel or aluminum. Add a little water into the mix and you get corrosion.

Here's some reading material on corrosion & corrosion resistance:
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Corrosion.pdf


Any electrical engineers or someone smarter than me on this subject care to chime or maybe I'm just full of it, which wouldn't be the first time....LOL
 

Snopro_69

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Well guys it's not just the Polaris Axys. . . Same relay maker on their rzrs, Lil different relay though. This is from a 2015 xp 1000 with a completely sealed fuse box. There's no water in the box and there's 3 exact same relays right beside this one. BUT this one is for the ignition switch so it's changing states everytime you turn on and off. The other ones are all fine and this one failed closed. Maybe it's from getting used lots like the axys ones? Maybe we just need to watch them and change them out each season.
ea30a351d0244c331f5139f08fd0150c.jpg
7e6eabfd8dd3200a0b7a1e75115b8817.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
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I've been getting a LOT of PM's and emails on this lately... and where to get the relays at a reasonable cost.

I strongly believe that you can use the 871-1A-S-R1-12VDC. (instead of the factory 871-1C-S-R1-12VDC)

The 1A and 1C exact same relay EXCEPT that there is no second pole... which is NOT used on the AXYS Mtn sleds ANYWAY according to the wiring diagram.
See this tech page if you need confirmation of this information.
https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/378/20098291912159610-3428.pdf

If the relay has only 4 wires going input terminals (even if there are some terminals with two wires each)... then you can use this relay as it will be electrically identical to the 1C model.

Mouser HAS 570 of the 871-1A-S-R1-12VDC in stock for $1.42 each :face-icon-small-win

CLICK HERE

WAYTEK has the 871-1A-S-R1-12VDC in stock for $2.55 each
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75721/Song-Chuan-Micro-Relay-/

If you must have the 871-1C-S-R1-12VDC.... you can get them direct from China through AliExpress (they are made in China anyway)...For $2.01 each with $2 Shipping in 12-20 days.
HECK.... If you wanted to buy 100 of them... you could get them shipped to your door via FedEx in 5 days for $2.38 each.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/871...in-20A-35A-871-1C-S-R1-12VDC/32844463559.html


Unfortunately I didn't realize this until I got them in the mail but the relays from allied express are not quite the same. The amp numbers are in a different order. Stock on the right and allied on the left. My electrical knowledge is limited and poor at best, but are these for open/closed positions?

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mountainhorse

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I'd rely more on the part number than the order.

I think you're good to go.

If it were me... I'd go with the USA stocked SPST relay from Mouser at $1.42 each if I wanted the Song-Chan brand (OEM)
Just to save time.


Mouser HAS 570 of the 871-1A-S-R1-12VDC in stock for $1.42 each :face-icon-small-win

CLICK HERE






.
 
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Mxracer39

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BWD R3146 relays

For what it’s worth. My ‘16 dash went out and it was skipping on WOT. I have no dealer close by, and couldn’t wait to order. Got two BWD R3146 relays from CarQuest (don’t think these are sealed, so only recommend this if you need quick fix).. Measured coil before installing, was 78 ohms. Installed them after sealing the bottom with paint on electrical tape. Sled ran great last trip and dash worked. Granted relays were $14 each, but would get someone out of a pinch.
 

mountainhorse

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the relay for electric start on top of battery needs double pole relay. won't start with single pole.

Correct... the starter lock out relay needs a N.C. Relay. and needs the NC contact (terminal #4) of the connector of the double pole relay...
though it does not use the N.O. part of the relay.

the battery charge relay is a N.O. function relay and can use a double or single pole relay like the 3 main relays.





.
 
Feb 3, 2018
22
5
3
I changed all 5 stock relays out with CM1-R-12 s this week. Used dielectric grease on edge of relay and plugged into seal base to relay connection. Put grease on underside of base and taped up to seal out moisture.

Test rode 60 miles.

Ran perfect.

2 relays are down by battery.
2 by belt storage.
1 in velcro pouch behind primary.

I also did EGR connection with grease and tape.

Also did battery terminals and connections.

Dash plug got greased.

Simple preventions. My cost was $20 for 5 relays.

I have over 600 miles on my 018 SBA.

Original plugs, Original belt.

The machine is AWESOME.

The CM1-R-12 relays work perfect.


There is only a few gripes about this sled.

Cold start issues. Will flood IF do not hold throttle on a little bit.....once it's been ran it starts perfect except the idle will sometimes be a touch low and you have to burp the throttle than it's good. So I may ask dealer to check fuel pump and TPS?

It's a little bit of a harsh ride sometimes....but liveable.

It uses a tonne of oil(runs between 36:1 and 41:1) ratio but oil is cheaper than engine damage and it doesn't foul plugs so all good.

It takes extremely long to warm to 100 deg. from cold. Like 15 minutes of idling!

Fuel economy is crap you drive it hard.....but what 800 will sip fuel?

Best I have gotten is 14.68 mpg when I babied it.
 

die hard poo

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So my 16' Axys had the infamous gauge flicker/go out. Also my EV valve weren't opening. Dealer replaced 2/3 relays and she works great now.

But whats weird is I didn't have any corrosion on the terminals and no obvious signs of issues externally. But obviously they were not working. Seems to me like it isn't necessarily always a corrosion issue but just a failed coil inside the relay or something broke on them. Odd that both relays went out at the same time.

I ordered 4 relays from mouser, to replace the oil relay one and to have a full set of spares. They have like 1300 in stock right now.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...qzyaIQ7onUQ==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
 

Sheetmetalfab

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So my 16' Axys had the infamous gauge flicker/go out. Also my EV valve weren't opening. Dealer replaced 2/3 relays and she works great now.

But whats weird is I didn't have any corrosion on the terminals and no obvious signs of issues externally. But obviously they were not working. Seems to me like it isn't necessarily always a corrosion issue but just a failed coil inside the relay or something broke on them. Odd that both relays went out at the same time.

I ordered 4 relays from mouser, to replace the oil relay one and to have a full set of spares. They have like 1300 in stock right now.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...qzyaIQ7onUQ==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Pop the failed relays apart.
My stock ones were corroded inside.
 
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