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anyone figure out Tra clutching on 600

B

bmiller

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
281
53
28
50
stuck in the flats of ND
I have a 600 with an AC Roller secondary. Works pretty good, but seems to over rev when I pin it. I clutched the sled using stock mxz 600 specs. Maybe could go a little heavier since the machine is lighter. My gauges quit working so I don't know what rpms I am at.

I still have the stock pucker clutch. Do they work ok with the AC roller?
 
C

cjgodden

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
5,895
395
83
Palmer, Alaska
Stick with the tra, its a better clutch. You really need a tach so you know what rpm's your spinning. If your over-reving, add pin weight.
 

off road rider

SnoWest Paid Sponsor
Premium Member
Jan 2, 2008
1,729
354
83
Kent Wa
I have a 600 with an AC Roller secondary. Works pretty good, but seems to over rev when I pin it. I clutched the sled using stock mxz 600 specs. Maybe could go a little heavier since the machine is lighter. My gauges quit working so I don't know what rpms I am at.

I still have the stock pucker clutch. Do they work ok with the AC roller?

Im no clutching pro.. far from it..I have learned alot by trial and err..which is what you are going to have to do as well..You might be able to use someone elses setup as a guide , but everyones setup will be different based on several factors.. a tach is mandatory
Have you done anything with your secondary?? before switching primary's try a steeper helix in your ac secondary.. I went from 45 way to much over rev to a 48 still to much to a 52 witch seams perfect.. curred the issue and my machine flat out rips...
 
T

TLKDPROD

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2008
592
54
28
Salmon Arm, BC
I have a 600 with an AC Roller secondary. Works pretty good, but seems to over rev when I pin it. I clutched the sled using stock mxz 600 specs. Maybe could go a little heavier since the machine is lighter. My gauges quit working so I don't know what rpms I am at.

I still have the stock pucker clutch. Do they work ok with the AC roller?

Hey bmiller, If I were you I would have just try clicking it down a notch or two in the field, then add pin weight when back in the garage... But I'd like you to answer these questions otherwise it's just guesswork.

Jaws or Mattech ?
Stock airbox or pod filters ?
Any mod to the motor (head work, reed valve, bored carbs...) ?
121" or 136" Track ?
Gearing and track driver tooth# ?
What elevation are you riding at ?
Want it to perform on Hardpack or Powder ?
Is top speed important for you ? If yes how fast do you want to go ?
What RPM are you pulling ?
These along with your full primary (ramps, pin weight, spring, clicker#) and secondary (helix and spring) setup.

Yes, a lot of variables comes into the equation when clutching a sled ! Some say it's an art, I say it's more of something you need to understand after testing it in order to tune the next one properly (and quicker too!). That many variable is the reason why everybody is gonna be different. 1000 feet higher or colder temperature or different snow (coast snow vs light snow) can play a lot and will screw up a "clutch setup equation". Heavier snow will require a shallower helix, colder temperature means denser air means more power means more pin weight (might also mean jet bigger...), higher elevation less power less pin weight (or clicker up (on a TRA) as you climb)...

And of course get a Tach.
 
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