Anti ratchet drives for my nytro xtx

[Midniterider]

Just picked up an 09 xtx. Guy out on some stealth powder skis and a 1 3/4 inch paddle track (might be small for you guys but for around here thats decently big) so go out for a ride today. Hit the Trails and got on it as hard as it would go at any chance i could and it went great ! Fast forward to a going Boon docking and playing around in the powder. Go to do a small ish his climb in skme powder and Hale way up it starts to ratcbet hard. Pretty much any time in in powder and hammer it hard it will ratchet but on hard pack its fine :/ any eau the track is tight so I guess my next step is anti ratchet drives.... Who makes the best drives without breaking the bank and would I replace all 4 or just 2 ? New to this all so I have no clue. Also is there any thing that my track needs to have to work with the drives ?

 

[Midniterider]

Sorry for spelling my autocorrect is killing my typing cause it just doesn't know alot of words and for some reason even missspeals words that I spelt right

 

[up-high]

Before you spend money on drivers(Avids if you want good ones) check the chain tension. And make sure the track is tight and all driveshaft bearings are good. Stock Nytro shouldn't ratchet.

 

[Midniterider]

Before you spend money on drivers(Avids if you want good ones) check the chain tension. And make sure the track is tight and all driveshaft bearings are good. Stock Nytro shouldn't ratchet.

Track is pretty tight. Not sure exactly what its supposed to be on the long track but on the stand with no weight its saga in the middle maybe 1/2 inch then with me pushing down on the track maybe an inch or two... All bearings are good and ill have to check the chain tension tonight. You think it could be the chain ratcheting instead of the drivers ?

 

[up-high]

Don't know what track length you have but 1 3/4 shouldn't ratchet if track is tight and all bearings are good. Probably shouldn't sag at all with no weight on it. Snug it up and ride it see what it does. If you want to run it loose then buy a pair of Avids. Great drivers. Ran them on all turbo sleds with 174x3. Never had a problem.

 

[Midniterider]

Don't know what track length you have but 1 3/4 shouldn't ratchet if track is tight and all bearings are good. Probably shouldn't sag at all with no weight on it. Snug it up and ride it see what it does. If you want to run it loose then buy a pair of Avids. Great drivers. Ran them on all turbo sleds with 174x3. Never had a problem.

its a 144, i can get a decent deal on a set of kimpex drives. not sure how great they are

 

[up-high]

I don't like Kimpex. They don't hold up to boost. Tighten the track and check the chain. Probably be fine.

 

[bholmlate]

If you are running boost Avid drivers are the only way to go. they will hold up to boost a lot better then others. more money of course but well worth the investment It could just be the drivers are worn out. Yamaha's like a tight track. It sounds like it might be a little loose

Track tension should be measured with 22 lbs of force on spring scale pulling down on middle of track you should have between .98 - 1.18 inches between track and skid

http://www.marclatulippe.com/manuelshopmotoneige/yamaha/yamaha 2008-2011 fx nytro.pdf

 

[Midniterider]

If you are running boost Avid drivers are the only way to go. they will hold up to boost a lot better then others. more money of course but well worth the investment It could just be the drivers are worn out. Yamaha's like a tight track. It sounds like it might be a little loose

Track tension should be measured with 22 lbs of force on spring scale pulling down on middle of track you should have between .98 - 1.18 inches between track and skid

http://www.marclatulippe.com/manuelshopmotoneige/yamaha/yamaha 2008-2011 fx nytro.pdf

Dont plan on boost anytime soon probably never unlessni come into money so I Dont really have to worry about having too much power. Just planning on keeping it Stock with some slight mods to make it better in the powder and on the trail. Will tighten the track up a bit more. Ended up ordering the limped drivers yesterday. 60$ for the set. May as well since I'm pulling the skid to do exhaust donuts and sliders thought what the hell I can change the chain case oil while I'm at it

 

[bholmlate]

If the sled doesn't already have one something you might want to look into is a steering relocator from OFT racing or other companies. The steering shaft on the Nytro is at a weird angle. The steering relocator moves the handlebars forward a couple of inches and up a couple of inches. Just doing that make a big difference with steering. Also even though you are not running boost you might want to look into copper exhaust donuts for a little added security since you said you were changing them. they were developed for boost applications but they certainly would last even longer on a N/A application. food for thought anyway

 

[Midniterider]

If the sled doesn't already have one something you might want to look into is a steering relocator from OFT racing or other companies. The steering shaft on the Nytro is at a weird angle. The steering relocator moves the handlebars forward a couple of inches and up a couple of inches. Just doing that make a big difference with steering. Also even though you are not running boost you might want to look into copper exhaust donuts for a little added security since you said you were changing them. they were developed for boost applications but they certainly would last even longer on a N/A application. food for thought anyway

Already bought the oem donuts :/ maybe next time I'll give them a try

 

[bholmlate]

Stock ones work just fine if you're not boosted which your not. I put new stock ones back in when i put an Excel header and exhaust on and have never had any issues. When everyone was going to boost peoples started producing the copper one's that hold up to extreme heat better.