Advice needed on what to do with stock clutches Part 2

[Eatstone]

Yesterday with the help of my brother, thankfully, I got an M770 track installed along with TRS Tonys clutch kit.

First off I’d like to say that after removing all the e start battery stuff to pull the qd id never want to do it on the mountain in -20 C. What a pain that was. Track went off and on relatively easy… with 2 people.

Next we moved on to the clutch kit. Pulling the primary was neat when it finally let go and I thought I’d snapped the crank. All good. Disassembled primary and driven clutches and cleaned the assembly. Tony was quick to respond to my text and phone call, amazing customer service. Driven clutch was a piece of cake with a lite heat. Moved on to the primary, cleaned , parts installed, belt to sheave set at 0.020 with new factory belt. Glad I had my bother to torque the jamb nut and spider.

Now try as we might we couldn’t get our reference marks that I made prior to disassembling the stock primary to line up at reassembly. We tried re-indexing the spider by 1/3 as the included pages of service manual indicates but no dice.

The 2 sheaves are out about 2-3/4” and the spider is further out yet to the next tower. What do I do here, if anything? Mount clutch cover to it’s original reference line with non movable sheave as that’s where they were factory balanced?

I’ve installed the clutches back on the sled and adjusted offset with TRS bar to spec and set float at 0.035. My lead in is 0.101, is this too much?

So a few things that didn’t end up as smooth as I’d hoped. I don’t want to bug Tony on the weekend, what do you guys think.

 

[Eatstone]

Ok, well I watched MSG‘s youtube video and that’ll lead me back to Tony for his motor mounts to correct my excessive lead in.



Still not sure on my P85 alignment with respect to sheaves , spider and clutch cover. I did add .094 for belt to sheave alignment and removed the cup washer as directed.

 

[damx]

If you're belt to shive is at .020" try going to as much as .030" with different shims. And see if everything lines up better. But best to text Tony.

 

[live2beel]

So a few things that didn’t end up as smooth as I’d hoped. I don’t want to bug Tony on the weekend, what do you guys think.

Are you kidding. Tony has the best customer service in the business !! Hit him up.

 

[armey37]

Call Tony

 

[TRS]

Yes sir, give me a call.

 

[madmax]

if you can’t get the marks close enough (it’s hard to get it perfect) send the primary off to get balanced.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Yesterday with the help of my brother, thankfully, I got an M770 track installed along with TRS Tonys clutch kit.

First off I’d like to say that after removing all the e start battery stuff to pull the qd id never want to do it on the mountain in -20 C. What a pain that was. Track went off and on relatively easy… with 2 people.

Next we moved on to the clutch kit. Pulling the primary was neat when it finally let go and I thought I’d snapped the crank. All good. Disassembled primary and driven clutches and cleaned the assembly. Tony was quick to respond to my text and phone call, amazing customer service. Driven clutch was a piece of cake with a lite heat. Moved on to the primary, cleaned , parts installed, belt to sheave set at 0.020 with new factory belt. Glad I had my bother to torque the jamb nut and spider.

Now try as we might we couldn’t get our reference marks that I made prior to disassembling the stock primary to line up at reassembly. We tried re-indexing the spider by 1/3 as the included pages of service manual indicates but no dice.

The 2 sheaves are out about 2-3/4” and the spider is further out yet to the next tower. What do I do here, if anything? Mount clutch cover to it’s original reference line with non movable sheave as that’s where they were factory balanced?

I’ve installed the clutches back on the sled and adjusted offset with TRS bar to spec and set float at 0.035. My lead in is 0.101, is this too much?

So a few things that didn’t end up as smooth as I’d hoped. I don’t want to bug Tony on the weekend, what do you guys think.

Just swap to an antigravity 801 and mount it to the belly pan. (Not to the footwell aluminum because then it’s still in the way)

Bend the plastic away for full access to the quickdrive.

 

[Eatstone]

Just swap to an antigravity 801 and mount it to the belly pan. (Not to the footwell aluminum because then it’s still in the way)

Bend the plastic away for full access to the quickdrive.

View attachment 411273

A good recommendation I have already purchased a lw Noco battery and will have to run the stock mount for the season.

 

[zaasman]

Now try as we might we couldn’t get our reference marks that I made prior to disassembling the stock primary to line up at reassembly. We tried re-indexing the spider by 1/3 as the included pages of service manual indicates but no dice.

I shimmed my P85 by increments of .025 from factory setup to avoid this issue. Mine was at .075 belt to sheave, so I pulled .050 worth of shims. At 13 threads per inch, one third turn equates to about .025, such that re-indexing the spider lets both sheaves come back into alignment at proper torque. Worked well for me.

 

[carbontj]

I would bet your shims are offset and meaning they are not flush in the grove in the spider...It can be a trick to get them aligned...You need to walk them in with your fingers.as you tighten..

 

[TRS]

I would bet your shims are offset and meaning they are not flush in the grove in the spider...It can be a trick to get them aligned...You need to walk them in with your fingers.as you tighten..

Thanks TJ.

 

[mt.sledder]

Just swap to an antigravity 801 and mount it to the belly pan. (Not to the footwell aluminum because then it’s still in the way)

Bend the plastic away for full access to the quickdrive.

View attachment 411273

Polaris MATRYX RMK Lightweight E-Start Kit

With a weight reduction of 13.2 pounds, the CV Customs Lightweight E-Start Battery Box Kit is a great option if you are looking to have the convenience of E-start on all Polaris MATRYX RMK models (9R, 850 and Boost), but not that the added weight of the factory battery setup. As a added bonus...

cvcustoms.com

Polaris MATRYX Lightweight E-Start Battery Box

The CV Customs Lightweight E-Start Battery Box was designed for the MAYTRX to eliminate the the bulky factory battery box with a lightweight option to start the snowmobile in conjunction with a lightweight lithium ion battery. This is the battery box you need if you are an international...

cvcustoms.com

The CV Customs lightweight e start kit the Cole builds with the supplied battery box fits perfect. You can easily remove the lower q drive pully and change belts without removing the battery or box. If you already have the battery he sells the battery box separately.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Polaris MATRYX RMK Lightweight E-Start Kit

With a weight reduction of 13.2 pounds, the CV Customs Lightweight E-Start Battery Box Kit is a great option if you are looking to have the convenience of E-start on all Polaris MATRYX RMK models (9R, 850 and Boost), but not that the added weight of the factory battery setup. As a added bonus...

cvcustoms.com

Polaris MATRYX Lightweight E-Start Battery Box

The CV Customs Lightweight E-Start Battery Box was designed for the MAYTRX to eliminate the the bulky factory battery box with a lightweight option to start the snowmobile in conjunction with a lightweight lithium ion battery. This is the battery box you need if you are an international...

cvcustoms.com

The CV Customs lightweight e start kit the Cole builds with the supplied battery box fits perfect. You can easily remove the lower q drive pully and change belts without removing the battery or box. If you already have the battery he sells the battery box separately.

After changing a few belts in the field.

Going to have to disagree with your statement “you can easily remove the lower drive pulley and change belts without removing the battery or box”

There’s barely enough room to get your hands in there without a hard mounted battery in the way.

Nothing against cole’s kit but I’m not into paying more for a less accessible solution.

If I wanted a sled that’s hard to service in the field I would buy a skidoo.

 

[mt.sledder]

After changing a few belts in the field.

Going to have to disagree with your statement “you can easily remove the lower drive pulley and change belts without removing the battery or box”

There’s barely enough room to get your hands in there without a hard mounted battery in the way.

Nothing against cole’s kit but I’m not into paying more for a less accessible solution.

If I wanted a sled that’s hard to service in the field I would buy a skidoo.

I've changed them easily with coles kit. I use the expanding turnbuckle method between the upper and lower sprockets instead of the polaris tools to get the sprockets started. each to their own though.

 

[MrRevvz]

Did you figure it out stone? Ordering my TRS kit next week, pretty pumped.


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