I am, he told me 68 and so that’s what I’m going to run?
Adjustable Clutch Weights Contenders
- Thread starter RBalazs
- Start date
R
If it were that simple to make slight adjustments in only 10min I think that makes sense.
But that also means having multiple weights with you. And in my case, my sled tools i carry are for "what ifs" and getting a broken sled off the trail. Light and minimal. My impacts and tools I rather use to swap out weights in a clutch out in the field, are at the shop. And 10min might be a bit quick at least for me.
You get 100rpm + or - for each SLP screw weight you add or remove. Very easy to hit proper RPM which I am looking for 8250 to 8300.
If I am hitting 8400 I add 1 screw weight to reach weight and nail it every time. And it "truly" only take 5min and all you need is 1 simple tool tool that comes with the kit and a handful of screw weight. They live in my vest pocket and make on mountain changes EXTREMELY simple.
It's not only for elevation changes it is also snow pack that makes a huge difference. Same elevation I run different weight combinations for winter soft snow than I do later season spring snow.
And in most cases you can guess in your garage what weights to be running in the place you plan on riding the next day. But I have learned you really can't dial it in and make it spot on until you are actually at the spot you are riding in the snow condition that is there that day.
These adjustable clutches have made the game easier in my opinion.
I really hate having to pull the clutch apart to change the magnets in weights. If I do adjustable weights, it’s only the ones you can easily adjust in a couple minutes, BD, SLP or CPC (dalton).
Totally can see that.
S
been using the slp magnums for couple of years. one post noted adjusting for the snow densities. I have done that when the snow in very light wispy. A few days later it has tightened up and at same elevation you can literal stop pop the plastic cover off, pull tool out and change 5 minutes or less. it is a sweet thing. I keep my t handle and set screws in the easiest place to not have to dig for them. i have also used the slp mtx weights. they seem to rev quicker, but you have to make the adjustments in the garage due to the rivets.
only draw back on the magnums is adjusting the tip of the weight, I would like to see slp offer an aluminum plug for the days that you want to lighten the tip.
only draw back on the magnums is adjusting the tip of the weight, I would like to see slp offer an aluminum plug for the days that you want to lighten the tip.
Not wrong about anything.
I never had snow conditions affect RPM enough on my 850 to really worry about it, that made good power in a wide RPM range.
Like sra said in sled adjustable weights do have the drawback of not being able to add weight across the whole profile of the weight.
I just rode two days using the BD High Energy weights and a black/green primary spring on my 22 Matryx 165. Def noticed a difference in response low to mid range. Never made any long pulls only short blasts in the trees and it would hold at 8300rpm. Screws were easy to change on mountain.
No experience with any of the other adjustable weights
No experience with any of the other adjustable weights
E
Interested in this setup and wondering about elevation and if this or similar would work for me. Ride mostly around 6500 to 7000 feet, fairly tight tree bashing and looking for something for my 22 850 khaos 165 that would make bottom and mid more rippy. Thx for the help. Was considering these weights in 61 base to 70 with capsules and guess I need a different primary spring? Dont really know much about clutching, my sled rips but interested if easy enough to gain performance.
Call BD. I ended up needing 63 base and not the 61 I had gotten on FB. Basicically If you have QD2, 61 is too low of a base weight.
I’m happy with my TRS weights and clutch setup on my 22 khaos. If you want adjustable weights Mds is a good one. He’s out of Ellensburg and stands by his product. Don’t forgot primary and secondary spring change helps along with proper alignment of clutch’s.
U
So with the 63 gram base what is the max weight you can achieve
I ride 6000-8000’. This wkd rode in really dry bottomless 2-3’ in most places. When climbing in fresh snow I was hitting like 8500 and it would stay there so thinking I might get another set of capsules to try and bring it down a bit
E
What spring rate is the black/green (slp?) and capsules were you using? Pls.let me know how the changes go!
U
blk/grn is 120/340 ? believe
E
I spoke with BD and they suggested the lighter 59 base and with their capsule set to aiming for 8400 to 8650..seems high to me if peak power is 8025 or 8050?
If I want to wake up the bottom end and mid for better tree riding what should I do? Wasnt wanting to spend $500 on a whole kit, was hoping somd weights with different profile and maybe a spring would do it?
Anyone telling you peak power is at 8025-8050 wants to see your engine make it 10,000 miles. I would block them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
Will be trying an indy specialty full kit in 2 boost sleds soon.
Where does Indy Specialty say the Target for the RPM is on the top end on his kit?
Last edited:
