800 pro rmk stator question.

[proprolaris]

So long story short I need a new stator on my sled. I have a 2013 rmk pro 800.
Does anybody know if a 2011 or a 2012 stator will work on my 2013 sled? Or do I have to get a stator from a 2013 sled or newer? I do know that they have different part numbers but I don't know if they are any different.
I found 2011 stator a for 90$ but for a 2013 stator it costs 240 that is why I am wondering.

 

[LoudHandle]

I know the wire length and the connectors are different between the '11 & '12's and the '13 and newer. I have both on the bench right now and know that for sure. If you want photos I can take and text them to you. PM me your cell if that would help.

There have been posts like yours before and the people that weighed in said it was far cheaper / easier to suck it up and buy the part for the year you needed rather than updating the entire wiring system to the other generation.

I'm contemplating the opposite, bringing my '11 up to the current style wiring harness / electronics. My '11 is the odd sled in my shop, the others are '13's

 

[proprolaris]

Ok what sort of updated would I have to do to my wiring harness is I did buy the 2011 stator?

 

[Murph]

Loudhandle--- the flywheels are the same between all years, correct?

If the number of leads off the stators are the same, you should be able to repopulate a 13-later plugs with the 11-12 wires. I'm guessing the difference is in the location of components (top of clutch cover vs overstructure)and combination of components on 13-later versus 11-12.

Or has the number of wires coming out of the stators changed between the years?

 

[proprolaris]

Yes the flywheels are the same between all years. Same part number and everything

 

[mountainhorse]

Stator is the same... the connector and length of wires coming out of the stator are different as Murph pointed to.

The 2013 has about 17.5" of lead from where it leaves the recoil housing to the connector end for the stator. ... I believe the 2011/12 stators had longer leads...which is good... but the connectors are different between the years.

For a clean job... IF... IF... you are good with crimping and connections and electrical in general... Get the 2011... pull your old 2013 black 8 pin connector apart... salvage the seals, connector housing and secondary lock and plug for re-use

FIRST... TAKE detailed photos and notes on both stators BEFORE you pull the connectors apart.

... and get these new pins from Mouser.

MUCH MUCH better than cutting and splicing with butt connectors or solder and heatshrink/tape.


10ea female terminals $.37 ea (8 needed, 2 extra if you screw up)
CLICK HERE

Re-assemble EXACTLY like your photos/notes show.


Pull the yellow wires connectors out of the 4 pin .250 Yazaki connector on your fried 2013 stator for re-use on the 2011 stator leads... remove the yellow wires on the 2011 connectors and replace them in the same position as you've noted and photo'd previously into the 2013 connector... making sure that the corresponding coil wires go to the corresponding cavity on the plug. The terminals inside the 2011 are the same as the 2013.... (90% sure)... and will click back into the 2013 connector that you are re-using.

Plug it in... and go... probably about 20 min worth of work for a plug/play result.




.

 

[LoudHandle]

Anyone have a bad '13-current stator they want to sell the connectors off of, or does anyone have the part numbers for the actual connectors used on the '13-current?

I can chase them down also, I was just hoping for a big red "Easy Button". LOL

 

[Pro-8250]

I don't know if this helps anyone here, but two weeks ago the following dealer had a totaled 2013 800 163" PRO-RMK with about 70 miles on it. I know this because we bought parts off of it.
http://www.shivelyhardware.com/aboutus.asp

 

[mountainhorse]

Connector parts.

Here ya go bud.

Clickable links

LOCK FOR FEMALE HOUSING (Need 1)

FEMALE CONNECTOR HOUSING (Stator side, need 1)

FEMALE TERMINALS (Pins, need 10)

MALE CONECTOR HOUSING (Wire harness side, need 1)

LOCK FOR MALE HOUSING (1 needed)


MALE TERMINAL (PINS, need 10)

WIRE SEALS INTO HOUSING (14 needed for both sides... order a few extras)

CAVITY PLUG (2 needed)

YAZAKI CONNECTORS FOR YELLOW STATOR WIRES
4 pin 6.3mm - .250 Male and Female locking connector - Connector with Terminals, Connector Set Male and Female - Set YC2504. (comes as as pair ... male/female with terminals)

.

 

[LoudHandle]

MH,

You are the man! Thank You once again! Easy button graphic and all!

 

[frntflp]

Replacing a [suspected dead] stator tonight ('13 Pro 800)and replacing with factory new. Once I confirm issue solved (i.e. dead sled), I can ship the old one out to who ever wants it. (In reply to post above).

In my case, I have an open/broken circuit on the two black wires off of coil "Z" in the schematic above that powers the fuel pump and other stuff. (The two black wires in the 4 pin connector off the stator). Just died on the side of the mountain. Fired on attempted restart long enough to putt, putt. Then nothing...... Towed it out.

 

[mountainhorse]

TTT..That time of year.

Good Idea to take the time and check out this connector... It can be a day-killer in the backcountry.


.

 

[mountainhorse]

If you are replacing these... and want a Heavy Duty connector option... far superior to the Polaris connector.

14 gauge...

The MetriPack 630 series (not the 280)

And soldered after crimp for good measure...
Also put a dab of dielectric on the wire seals to seal better with the fabric covered wire of the stator.

BTW... With the MP-630's .... put male housing and female housing on the harness side... matching for the stator side...so you don't get them confused in the hookup and and can only connect correctly.


Hope this helps.


From another post.

Metripack 630

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/Metri-Pack/metri-pack.html

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/Delphi_Metri_Pack_630_Series_Section.pdf


630 Metri-Pack Features

Available in device and in-line connections for underhood vehicle
applications, Metri-Pack 630 Series sealed connectors can meet or exceed the
requirements for most marine, appliance, and industrial control applications.
Utilizing triple-rib peripheral silicone rubber seals, Metri-Pack 630 Series sealed
systems are ideally suited for high current applications that require protection from
environmental hazards.

Metri-Pack Series
• Connector Position Assurance (CPA)
• Terminal Position Assurance (TPA)
• 46 Amps continuous maximum current rating
• Low energy, low voltage capability
• Excellent resistance to temperature, chemicals and abrasion
• -40ºC to 125ºC temperature range

 

[Powdoggin]

Stator is the same... the connector and length of wires coming out of the stator are different as Murph pointed to.

The 2013 has about 17.5" of lead from where it leaves the recoil housing to the connector end for the stator. ... I believe the 2011/12 stators had longer leads...which is good... but the connectors are different between the years.

For a clean job... IF... IF... you are good with crimping and connections and electrical in general... Get the 2011... pull your old 2013 black 8 pin connector apart... salvage the seals, connector housing and secondary lock and plug for re-use

FIRST... TAKE detailed photos and notes on both stators BEFORE you pull the connectors apart.

... and get these new pins from Mouser.

MUCH MUCH better than cutting and splicing with butt connectors or solder and heatshrink/tape.


10ea female terminals $.37 ea (8 needed, 2 extra if you screw up)
CLICK HERE

Re-assemble EXACTLY like your photos/notes show.


Pull the yellow wires connectors out of the 4 pin .250 Yazaki connector on your fried 2013 stator for re-use on the 2011 stator leads... remove the yellow wires on the 2011 connectors and replace them in the same position as you've noted and photo'd previously into the 2013 connector... making sure that the corresponding coil wires go to the corresponding cavity on the plug. The terminals inside the 2011 are the same as the 2013.... (90% sure)... and will click back into the 2013 connector that you are re-using.

Plug it in... and go... probably about 20 min worth of work for a plug/play result.




.

Thank you for this and your following posts. I inadvertently bought an 11' stator for my 14 pro and this has been super helpful. My only question is: how can you tell polarity of the chassis, lighting, and system circuits ? ie the orange system wires are indistinguishable. Same for the yellows.

Stator is the same... the connector and length of wires coming out of the stator are different as Murph pointed to.

The 2013 has about 17.5" of lead from where it leaves the recoil housing to the connector end for the stator. ... I believe the 2011/12 stators had longer leads...which is good... but the connectors are different between the years.

For a clean job... IF... IF... you are good with crimping and connections and electrical in general... Get the 2011... pull your old 2013 black 8 pin connector apart... salvage the seals, connector housing and secondary lock and plug for re-use

FIRST... TAKE detailed photos and notes on both stators BEFORE you pull the connectors apart.

... and get these new pins from Mouser.

MUCH MUCH better than cutting and splicing with butt connectors or solder and heatshrink/tape.


10ea female terminals $.37 ea (8 needed, 2 extra if you screw up)
CLICK HERE

Re-assemble EXACTLY like your photos/notes show.


Pull the yellow wires connectors out of the 4 pin .250 Yazaki connector on your fried 2013 stator for re-use on the 2011 stator leads... remove the yellow wires on the 2011 connectors and replace them in the same position as you've noted and photo'd previously into the 2013 connector... making sure that the corresponding coil wires go to the corresponding cavity on the plug. The terminals inside the 2011 are the same as the 2013.... (90% sure)... and will click back into the 2013 connector that you are re-using.

Plug it in... and go... probably about 20 min worth of work for a plug/play result.




.

Thanks for these replies. I ended up with a 2011 stator for my 14 pro and this has all been super helpful. My only question is this:
How can I tell polarity of the chassis ac, chassis DC , and system wires ? Ie the orange system wires are I distuishable. Does it matter which is which ?