2016 Axys Won’t Start/Stay Running

[FreerideBrad]

A couple of weeks ago, I pulled(rode) my 2016 Axys 800 into the shop to do some prep work for the season. Mostly just greasing the chassis. I got done and rode it out. Fast forward a few weeks later and I go to load it on my deck to go ride and it won’t start. Feels like it’s dead when pulled and I start with disconnecting ignition, tether, kill sw, and TSS. As we go through it fired and ran poorly with the headlight and MFD flashing off and on.
Pull it into the shop and trying to isolate the issue, it had spark in every scenario with all the switches connected and individually isolated.
The spark plugs were wet with fuel so I put fresh ones in and no change. At this point I suspect this is a faulty voltage regulator. Any thoughts or anything I should check first?

 

[volcano buster]

I thought I remembered some of the early Axys sleds had relay contact corrosion issues. Have you verified that the relays are clean and working as they should?

 

[A@ron]

Check stator plug. Pto side in black bag

 

[FreerideBrad]

When you say “check stator” do you mean make sure the plug is not corroded or do you mean to ohm it out?

I have a VR ordered as well as some relays on the way. I have never changed the relays in the three years I’ve had it, and with the added moisture we have been getting and bringing it inside for preseason maintenance and parking back outside, it seems like it could be a likely culprit.

Now that I understand the relay issues better, those will just get changed out every year. It’s just odd, since this sled has been nothing short of reliable.

 

[FreerideBrad]

I thought I remembered some of the early Axys sleds had relay contact corrosion issues. Have you verified that the relays are clean and working as they should?

I have ordered some relays and will pull the existing ones out when I get back to the shop.
I’ll have to look up how to test them, but I can definitely check to see if there is corrosion on them.

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

If you have spark you may want to pull the plugs, and with everything off, pull until your dizzy and air out the crankcase, let it sit for a long while, then put the plugs back in and give it another try. I had one that would flood so bad if I touched the throttle in any way while starting I thought I had major issues.

 

[FreerideBrad]

If you have spark you may want to pull the plugs, and with everything off, pull until your dizzy and air out the crankcase, let it sit for a long while, then put the plugs back in and give it another try. I had one that would flood so bad if I touched the throttle in any way while starting I thought I had major issues.

That’s been on my mind as well. The plugs were pretty wet when I pulled them. Then the new ones got that way too, but with a flooded crankcase it’s very possible.
Going to have to pull that thing like it’s 1995.

 

[Spiderman]

Maybe bad tss...You can't just unplug the tss...it has to have signal...if you unplug it you have to use a tss resistor bypass in that lower plug to run correctly

 

[FreerideBrad]

Maybe bad tss...You can't just unplug the tss...it has to have signal...a tss resistor bypass in that lower plug to run correctly

If its a TSS issue, would I still have spark?

 

[HECKS]

Yes, TSS issue usually will die when throttle is moved.

 

[Perk]

It will start with a TSS issue - but as Hecks said, as soon as you start to open the throttle it will cut out.

 

[FreerideBrad]

I just saw the post that you make the bypass switch. I can’t seem to figure out how to PM you, but if you have any available, I’m interested.

 

[Perk]

Hi Brad - just sent you a PM, you should see an envelope icon in the top right of your screen. Click on that you and will get the message. To start a conversation you can hover on someones name and click on "Start Conversation". Cheers

 

[iluv2fly]

Yea my stator connector was all corroded and it was causing very similar issues. I installed a new plug and it fixed it.

 

[iluv2fly]

 

[FreerideBrad]

Thanks to the help from Perk and Heck’s, we got it figured out. The culprit was the TSS.
I will be getting the TSS bypass from Perk in case I ever run into this issue while on the mountain.
Thanks Perk!

 

[FreerideBrad]

View attachment 396754

I’m running into another issue and needed to test my stator only to find that the plugs (on the stator and harness) have been removed and the wires soldered together. Where did you get the connector that you have pictured here?

 

[HECKS]

I would stay running without the plug on the black and yellow wiring. Save yourself from the melting issues most of these sleds have, and obviously your sled was one of them. Should be able to ohm out the DC power on the stator above the clutch cover at the regulator plug.
I find that a decent volt/ohm meter may not read as low as 0.12 - 0.20 ohm, as my lowend Greenlee would read 0.40 ohm. But it would read the same on a new sled as well.

 

[FreerideBrad]

I would stay running without the plug on the black and yellow wiring. Save yourself from the melting issues most of these sleds have, and obviously your sled was one of them. Should be able to ohm out the DC power on the stator above the clutch cover at the regulator plug.
I find that a decent volt/ohm meter may not read as low as 0.12 - 0.20 ohm, as my lowend Greenlee would read 0.40 ohm. But it would read the same on a new sled as well.


View attachment 397841

View attachment 397839

What do you recommend in place if the factory plug? If I have to replace the stator I am going to have to cut the soldered wires. I was considering male and female faston connectors and ordering a seal tight plug for a later installation. I’m not opposed to the solder as it’s obviously worked for the three years I’ve owned it, but I’m not well practiced at soldering and it’s location could make it difficult.

 

[HECKS]

What issues are you having now ?
I've seen some guys on here (TRS) move to a different plug connector, but failed/melted during the season I believe.
Check out this thread: https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/axys-stator-connection-fix.444113/

Soldering is pretty easy in the location it is in. Be sure to use some dielectric grease & shrink tube over your connections, lots of youtube vids on soldering.
If you have to replace your stator, cut your wires a few inches closer to the stator (below) the already soldered wires, this way you will have some extra wiring to work with when practicing soldering in a new stator lol. The wire gauge is fairly small from stator to plug.
If your stator checks out, it would be wise to check the air gap on the 2 pickups for the flywheel too, just to eliminate things. I've had to pry some to get back into spec, but never due to a non running issue.