S module

It cost me around $2000. They have to pull the engine to replace it. They use 3/8 rivets and the rivet gun is expensive. You could use bolts I guess. I had insurance so I had the dealer do it. The part it self is was $256.

3" sounds like alot. Maybe check your E module too.

I replaced my S module last year myself last year when I noticed that one shock was about to touch the front of the a arm and the other the back. I had never done anything this deep before, but it still only took three nights to tear it all down and a Saturday to put it together.

Cost was the S module, bolts, rivets, and the skidoo manual they use at the dealer, which will break down each of the steps and gives you the torque settings to use as you put things back together.

Replace the big rivets with nuts and bolts, and Rivet the rest.

I also had a similar issue. Replacing is not that difficult just a lot of rivots to drill out. I have a new E-Module left over if you need one I would be happy to sell it.:face-icon-small-hap

CascadeXP said:

3" sounds like alot. Maybe check your E module too.

I replaced my S module last year myself last year when I noticed that one shock was about to touch the front of the a arm and the other the back. I had never done anything this deep before, but it still only took three nights to tear it all down and a Saturday to put it together.

Cost was the S module, bolts, rivets, and the skidoo manual they use at the dealer, which will break down each of the steps and gives you the torque settings to use as you put things back together.

Replace the big rivets with nuts and bolts, and Rivet the rest.

Click to expand...

Please pardon my ignorance, guys, but could someone please describe which parts your talking about when you say S mod. or E mod. or DoubleD mod. . . .I've got this same problem with one shock to the front and one to the rear of the control arms and I can't see any reason for it?? . .are these parts buried inside and not visible to see damage or bending.. cause nothing looks wrong at all on anything that's visible . .everything's straight, flat, even, no cracks ... ... looks just like it should?? . .I've had the sled completely tore down in the past but don't remember having the problem then so I wouldn't have been looking for anything out of place.. . guess I shoulda paid more attention! Also. . .what all has to be removed to do the job. ..??? ..not asking for detailed instructions right now but can somebody just quickly describe the basic job? . ..Thanks in advance ... . .



Johnny

I would pay extra for the DD module.

The S-module is where the A-arms attach to the frame. This comes with that bracket attached to an aluminum panel as a unit. It is pretty straight forward to replace. Remove belly pan protector, bumper, belly pan, and start drilling out rivets.

The E-module is comprised on the lower aluminum piece on the belly area, along with 2 aluminum honeycomb brackets on either side of the engine compartment. One side supports the engine and mounts, the other side acts as a support. This piece is more difficult to replace, some have removed the engine completely, others have supported the engine and not removed. You will also have to drill out the larger rivets (stavex style) and replace with pan head bolts. You will also need to remove drivers, track, etc., as 4 of the stavex rivets will be located next to the front cooler.

I spoke with Gordy from Ski-Doo this summer regarding the front/back position of the skis, his imput was generally that indicates the S-module has been bent/tweaked. IMO this is hard to see visually. The E-Module brackets are visable by removing the can on one side, and clutch cover on the other.

Hope this helps!

SJ

just got mine back......one shock was touching the a-arm


here is a list of what was done by dealer and everything is perfect now.

part # 518325924 qty 1 cross member $273.95
part # 207662044 qty 15 screw-hex.flange din.6921 $44.25
part # 233261414 qty 15 m-6 nut $29.25
part # 293150144 qty 25 stavex rivet $23.75
part # 293150104 qty 50 pop rivet 3/16 $47.50

frame labor 8 hours $552

total $970.70

Rip and Grip makes a brace that attaches to the bulkhead and the back of the A arms bolt thru it and the S module to divert the impact energy to the bulkhead instead of the aluminum S module. Runs less than 50 bucks. They claim that the A arm will bend instead of the S module breaking. A arms are much easier to replace.

So it sounds like if you measure from the back of your skis to a reference point on back of your sled, and left ski is back further than right ski, your s module is probably tweaked?
mine measures about a inch difference, but looking at sleds bulkhead, I cannot see anything bent or bulging. I have heard of A arms bending, but just eyeballing I cannot see anything out of sorts. This makes it very difficult for me to know where the source of misalignment is.

dooguy said:

So it sounds like if you measure from the back of your skis to a reference point on back of your sled, and left ski is back further than right ski, your s module is probably tweaked?
mine measures about a inch difference, but looking at sleds bulkhead, I cannot see anything bent or bulging. I have heard of A arms bending, but just eyeballing I cannot see anything out of sorts. This makes it very difficult for me to know where the source of misalignment is.

Click to expand...

My left is back about an inch and a half. My evol isn't really all that close to touching, however, the nitrogen charged compression "piggyback" can touch the A Arm on bottom outs. This is most likely due to the shock not being centered in the A Arm... and due to a bent or tweaked S Module.

The right evol seems to be fairly well centered.

I'm not exactly big on the idea of replacing this... I think the evol's can handle that bit of contact. They're built pretty tough in my opinion. It doesn't look like they would ever hit hard either. There is just a bit of paint chipped from where it has hit in the past. No damage at all to the piggyback from what I can see.

Opinions?