Turbo Axys

skibumm · Nov 7, 2016

So what are guys doing with the stock drivers? While I like the idea, keeping the the "antistab" where it counts by allowing the tips to bridge the gap between the drivers and the rail tips, it looks to me like any serious increase in power and that setup will not handle it without skipping. I'm probably going to have to do extros and cut the rail tips a little for fitment. How much are they cutting? Hate to have to run the track so damn tight just to avoid the ratchet...

Spaarky · Nov 7, 2016

Tracks are run so tight now, it's not totally necessary. If you run any looser than factory specs your scrubbing track speed. It's not the old days.

Sunvang · Nov 8, 2016

Im going with wahl bros no-slip drivers this year also, like i have been using for the last 5years. Very happy. Does require cutting my rail tips, and adding a anti stab tough.

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Nov 8, 2016

After doing damage to my drivers and track from slipping last season I decided to go with Avids #0010 non center drivers. With that I went with Iceage antistab kit. You only cut back to the first hole, like an inch or so. Easy to do, also added a second limiter strap.

I have ran this setup on two Pro chassis as well..

tdbaugha · Nov 8, 2016

AKFULLTHROTTLE said:
After doing damage to my drivers and track from slipping last season I decided to go with Avids #0010 non center drivers. With that I went with Iceage antistab kit. You only cut back to the first hole, like an inch or so. Easy to do, also added a second limiter strap.

I have ran this setup on two Pro chassis as well..

What caused the damage? Too much power for the stock parts with proper track tension, or did you bent a rail, lose a bearing, etc causing track to get loose?

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Nov 8, 2016

Just could not keep the track tight enough. As soon as it slipped once under boosted it seamed to get worse. I'm sure if I kept it super tight it would have been ok but I do not like them banjo tight.

Spaarky · Nov 8, 2016

None of us like it banjo tight. Doesn't matter what you like, if the new tracks are not banjo tight they wave and scrub speed and rpm. We have proven it time and time again.

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Nov 8, 2016

Spaarky said:
None of us like it banjo tight. Doesn't matter what you like, if the new tracks are not banjo tight they wave and scrub speed and rpm. We have proven it time and time again.

hahaha Ok, thank you for that..

I kept it banjo tight and still skipped.. Well tighter than spec, could have went more I guess.

And it does matter what I like, it is my money and I guess I'll waste it where I want to.

Spaarky · Nov 8, 2016

If you want to be a smart azz and not learn that's your choice also. You can just keep spending on fancy colored parts and turbos and not get everything out of your sled. I want to get every last drop out of my sled.

There is a sweet spot. It's beyond factory spec. If you aren't in the sweet spot your loosing hp to the ground. You want to spend money on drivers...idc. We run plenty of hp, just as much as you or more. I garuntee it. Never had a problem if track tension was in the sweet spot.

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Nov 8, 2016

Spaarky said:
If you want to be a smart azz and not learn that's your choice also. You can just keep spending on fancy colored parts and turbos and not get everything out of your sled. I want to get every last drop out of my sled.

There is a sweet spot. It's beyond factory spec. If you aren't in the sweet spot your loosing hp to the ground. You want to spend money on drivers...idc. We run plenty of hp, just as much as you or more. I garuntee it. Never had a problem if track tension was in the sweet spot.

Smart Azz... Me... This coming from the guy telling me what I like does not matter. I am not being a smart azz, I am telling you how it is.

I learn very well thank you, You words on the way I spend my money and how I like to make sleds mine has no value on this post.

Not sure how you can "guarantee" you run more hp than me but not sure how this proves anything.

I don't need every drop, the boost covers me just fine thank you. I have found the stock drivers don't work for me over the years of "learning" and IMO feel the better drivers help with track slipping, in fact they stop it. I don't like ratcheting as it destroys the drivers and track.

For my setups, the track has been slipping and I no longer want that. Had the same issue with my boosted Pro and the issue stopped when I changed the drivers.

aksledjunkie · Nov 8, 2016

Spaarky said:
None of us like it banjo tight. Doesn't matter what you like, if the new tracks are not banjo tight they wave and scrub speed and rpm. We have proven it time and time again.

Who are "we"?

Spaarky said:
You want to spend money on drivers...idc.

You sound like you don't care.....

Sage Crusher · Nov 8, 2016

You are missing running boards.....and like what your doing- as finding the "sweet spot" generally cost is = failure!

LongHorn XC · Nov 8, 2016

Spaarky said:
If you want to be a smart azz and not learn that's your choice also. You can just keep spending on fancy colored parts and turbos and not get everything out of your sled. I want to get every last drop out of my sled.

There is a sweet spot. It's beyond factory spec. If you aren't in the sweet spot your loosing hp to the ground. You want to spend money on drivers...idc. We run plenty of hp, just as much as you or more. I garuntee it. Never had a problem if track tension was in the sweet spot.

Just curious, where is your sweet spot compared to spec?

die hard poo · Nov 10, 2016

I personally was having issues with ratcheting track all last year. And yes it was tensioned to factory spec, and even tried going tighter. Got tired of the ratcheting game and went with avid drivers and anti-stab kit like AKFULLTHROTTLE has. Works great! (BTW this was with basically stock HP too)

Anthony Oberti · Nov 10, 2016

I run stock drivers with 12lbs and a fully built Carls motor. Haven't ever had a problem.

acutah · Nov 10, 2016

I noticed this all the time when under throttle and I collapsed the front track shock. I run a Kmod. I remember we always changed the drivers on our high HP Yamaha's to get rid of this problem.

Hitman450 · Nov 10, 2016

Good point on the kmod or running correct springs for rider weight so the suspension doesn't collapse as bad under loaded and unloaded terrain. but doesn't hurt to run extroverts! I've had issues in the past with running fox floats and not checking air pressure before i went riding and would have my track rachet. also my buddy little on the heavier size running stock springs would ratchet his track no matter how tight he would run his track.:juggle:

Sage Crusher · Nov 11, 2016

That's a good Point^^^
Running TRS springs on all 4 and went to the 280 lb rear spring this years cause I will be on Boost...

skibumm · Nov 14, 2016

Spaarky said:
Tracks are run so tight now, it's not totally necessary. If you run any looser than factory specs your scrubbing track speed. It's not the old days.

Well, I don't consider last year old days, but we ran 4 different Axys turbos, one with a 174 last year. We found a looser extrovert combo to work better than factory or tighter with stock drivers. The track would either ratchet under load or run so tight it would actually affect bottom end performance. If you were scrubbing anything with the track there would be noticeable rub marks somewhere on the inside of the tunnel or skid.

I guess we will go back to what worked last year.... Extros and nipped rails and a good anti stab kit. I was hoping for a different fix. I hear some are using a center extrovert but that tears up the track unless you clip the center.

jhillam · Nov 17, 2016

Extroverts on track clips

My finding is that the stock pro drivers (8 tooth 2.86" pitch) will hold high boost power with lots of traction just fine, but the smaller axys drivers (7 tooth 2.86" pitch) require so much track tension bottom end and sled free roll coasting is negatively effected.

I've spent a lot of time on the phone with Rob at Avid. Using his 7 tooth drivers, I tested the exact same X3 track with every window clipped and with every other window clipped. Track clips are free acceleration and free speed was the conclusion and the new Polaris tracks fail to deliver on that point. At stock HP level the introvert cogs do all the work and the center wheel extrovert cogs don't heavily pressure the center punch hole in the track--with more horsepower the inner track nubs deflect under the load and the center wheel contacts the track punch hole causing gobs of friction. Polaris Series 5 track on Pros didn't get enough hard traction bite to be a problem but the Axys track does.

Conclusion: on deep lug track turbos with insufficient tunnel clearance to run 8-9 tooth drivers, use Avid 2-piece combo drivers and a fully clipped track at tightest tension you can manage without bottom end detriment or braking feeling on throttle off coasting. Again, stay away from any extrovert driver design that's going to drive the extrovert cogs against track rubber...you want the star tips butting up against metal if you want efficiency.

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